http://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,74892.0.htmlClaying
Claying is what you would do after using a tar and Iron remover product from the surface.
Clay is used to remove bonded contaminants from the surface of the paint. People say clay does this by being sticky, which it is, but ultimately it's a fine abraisive. Think of it like shaving your paint, as you would shave your face. You're not really taking any skin (paint) off as such, just what is on and in the paints surface.
Doing so will remove any contamination that is bonded to your paint and it will reside within the claybar - As such.
When claying it is important to provide lubrication as the claybar has no pores to absorb what it picks up. It will grind them between the paint and the clay bar itself.
There are a variety of clays and nearly every clay out there, apparently, must be used with a CLAY LUBE.
THIS IS NOT THE CASE. It is ultimately a ploy by manufactures of products to make more money. You are completely fine to use a mixture of car shampoo and water (I use Fairy liquid to be honest here as if I'm claying the car I'm going to be polishing/waxing anyway)
I've used many clays and I keep coming back to Bilt Hamber stuff, it's very good value and doesn't break apart and leave a "bitty" feeling on the surface like some others *COUGH 3m COUGH* and is fine to use with water as a lubricant only (however I always use a shampoo and water solution).
I use a double action chemical resistant bottle to spray the lubrication onto the surface. This is amazing for claying as it sprays on both the trigger press and the depress (hence being a "double action" sprayer) meaning your hand doesn't get achey as fast!
I'd recommend everyone has something like this even if it's not a double action one. It's under a tenner.
If I am claying the car I will not bother drying it after washing , unless I am working outside and it's hot and would otherwise leave watermarks.
So take your clay (normally comes in a bar) and get a section of it, and form it into a patty that is big enough to fit across your 3-4 fingers (like in my picture above). They can be quite stiff at first but with some heat it will improve.
You do not want to hold the clay bar on your finger tips, rather you want it sitting how it is in my picture above - This is so you apply a more even pressure rather than putting all the pressure on your fingertips.. wet the clay bar and then thoroughly wet the surface of the area you are claying. Saturate it. You will be able to feel the clay picking up contaminants from the car as there will be some resistance and after a while of going over the area it will turn smooth and the clay bar will glide effortlessly across the surface.
You do want to apply some light pressure but you do not want to really press hard, let the clay do the work.
Keep spraying the area you are working to ensure proper lubrication. WORK IN STRAIGHT LINES ONLY. Any time you're touching the paint you want to only ever go in straight lines NEVER CIRCLES...
If you drop your clay on the ground then throw it in the bin and get a new piece. It will pick up dirt and stones that will damage your paint.
You will pick up a feel for it soon enough but as a rule of thumb every 1/3rd of a panel you want to stop and check the condition of your claybar to see how dirty it is. If there is contamination on it you'd want to kneed the clay and refold it again to reveal a clean side. Again you would want to work in straight lines top to bottom.
Again depending on how you are working, if it's hot outside (which is not ideal for washing a car anyway) then work a panel at a time, clay the panel, rinse it off and then dry it, move on to the next panel.
You can clay the glass as well.. clay works on any surface...
After you have clayed you may have some residue left from the clay itself, or your chosen lubricant. Generally I give the car a quick rinse down (if you have snowfoam then just foam it and jet it off) and then dry the car finally.
Then you're done with the decontamination of your paint.
