Cam chain, tensioner... How to determine adjuster??

[Reflex]

Hi all, this is my first post on here despite browsing the forums for a couple of years.

I have an 07 Mk5 GTI (BWA engine), it's going in for a major service and a cambelt change soon and I was wondering if I should get the chain and tensioner done at the same time? 

It doesn't seem too bad from inside the car, certainly note diesel-like as other people have mentioned. However from the outside I think its quite easy to hear the difference in sound from start up and then at full operating temperature. Other opinions would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks!

[dom069]

I'd be interested to know what other people think of our video @Reflex, mine sounds very similar.

[-AC-]

Folks, apologies for the late reply! I did end up replacing the chain and tensioner last Friday however with the adjuster bolt being very tight (had to use a breaker bar), the timing tool I bought bent both pins (cheap tool, buy a decent one!), so I had to get a lend of another timing tool as the original wouldn't time up the cams correctly (I was unfortunately off a tooth on the intake cam the first time round).

That being said, it's now sorted and sounds fantastic when warmed up! Only noise now is the tick from the injectors.

If you are planning to do this yourself, buy a decent timing tool. I would reccomend the Laser set: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Engine-Timing-Tool-FITS-AUDI-A3-A4-A6-S3-TT-2-0-2003-2010-T10115-T10252-T20018-/181012915733?hash=item2a2535e615:m:mrCRB1yDqj-pZdNiQrqNHQA

This is the T40080 polydrive you'll need too: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/271959949245?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Top tip when removing the adjuster to avoid stripping the head, have a second pair of hands put pressure on the socket while pulling with a breaker bar. Also, give the breaker short heavy bursts of pressure to break the seal.

I didn't have time to take many photos to make a guide but found this one after replacing the chain!

Removal guide: http://workshop-manuals.com/volkswagen/golf-mk5/power_unit/4-cylinder_injection_engine_(2.0_l_engine_direct_injection)/engine_cylinder_head_valve_gear/valve_gear/removing_and_installing_camshaft_adjuster/removing_camshaft_adjuster/

Replacing guide: http://workshop-manuals.com/volkswagen/golf-mk5/power_unit/4-cylinder_injection_engine_(2.0_l_engine_direct_injection)/engine_cylinder_head_valve_gear/valve_gear/removing_and_installing_camshaft_adjuster/installing_camshaft_adjuster/

Providing you don't need to drill out the adjuster bolt (which you shouldn't as long as you're careful) then the chances of needing to replace your adjuster are VERY slim as it is not the cause of the noise and are unlikely to fail as long as the car has been maintained with quality oil in it's lifetime. If you do need to put a drill on it, do not chance re-using the adjuster, replace it.

Parts you will need to replace, part number and priced by TPS including VAT:
Cam chain - 06D109229B - £52.65
Cam chain tensioner -06F109217A - £75.85
Cam cover gasket -06D103121B - £4.77
Fuel Pump o-ring - 06E127248 - £7.20 (optional but recommended after having fuel pump out)
Valve cover gasket - 06F103483D - £19.89
Exhaust cam adjuster bolt -06D109281D £2.56

And if you REALLY want to replace the adjuster at the same time...
Cam chain adjuster - 06F109088J £321.72

Labour wise, you are talking 1-2 hours for removal and 1 hour to refit, it's not difficult.

@Peskyjones @JamieBiz  @dom069 @Reflex ^^ Get it done, better safe than sorry. That is definitely cam chain rattle in your video.

[JamieBiz]

Thanks @-AC- that's top work! i'll be ordering the parts in two weeks and my workmate and i who is an ex lorry mechanic/rally driver/mx rider will be giving it a go.

I say that... ill be wiring a new extractor fan in his bathroom while he sorts this out 

Ill let you know how is go's

[-AC-]

Good stuff @JamieBiz , good luck with it.

A few other bits of advice, during the removal process, remove the spark plugs and rotate your engine 2 full turns on the crank before you remove the chain/put the cam locking tool in place to ensure you are at TDC and the timing is ok before you start. You'll need a 19mm 12 point socket to rotate the crank.

Also, when fitting the new chain, it can be a bit tight so you may need to rotate the intake cam slightly away from you (towards the windscreen) so that the adjuster aligns back into it's guide properly. When you release the pressure on the intake cam, it will move back with the chain slack. That is ok and nothing to worry about.

Once the new chain/tensioner is fitted and new adjuster bolt is in, remove the cam locking tool and again, rotate the crank 2 full turns then make sure the cam locking tool fits back in nicely. That way, you'll know your timing is dead on.

It would also be ideal if you have VCDS for when you turn the car back on for the first time. Go to engine measuring block 91 and look at the 'actual' intake cam position and the 'spec' cam position. They should be the same or half a degree out either way.

If you find that the actual position is 20 or 30 degrees out then your intake cam is off a tooth on the chain and you'll need to realign it. However providing you have rotated the crank and everything aligns ok, you should be spot on.

[dom069]

Fantastic info - cheers