Bit of Urgent Help please

[irish_ram]

My thoughts are you've got two problems:-

The N205 fault will give strange faults and the engine noise but not the juddering - I would be looking else where for the juddering in gear like coil packs - plugs or wiring to the coil packs.

Thanks so I just drove it round the block and in manual and the judder is only slightly there but when accelerating there is no power as goes up to about the 20 mark on the RPM before applying any power. Then EML light back on and flashing again

[irish_ram]

And new scan reveals errors

Cylinder 2 Misfire
Random Cylinder Misfire
Bank 1: Camshaft A (Intake): Retard Setpoint not Reached (Over-Advanced)

[irish_ram]

Not sure if any use but when you start in park it judders badly but then when you press the throttle and keep it steady at 2000rpm the juddering stops all together

[doylebros]

Not sure if any use but when you start in park it judders badly but then when you press the throttle and keep it steady at 2000rpm the juddering stops all together

The above is typical of a plug off - check cylinder 2 for bad electrical connection if ok swap the coil pack and if that doesn't identify it change the plug to another cylinder.

[irish_ram]

Not sure if any use but when you start in park it judders badly but then when you press the throttle and keep it steady at 2000rpm the juddering stops all together

The above is typical of a plug off - check cylinder 2 for bad electrical connection if ok swap the coil pack and if that doesn't identify it change the plug to another cylinder.

Thanks will try this tomorrow.

However engine wise I am a noobie.

How would I check and Identify cylinder 2 to check connection and then how do I swap the coilpacks

[irish_ram]

Found a guide so seems simple. I am presuming by cylinder it just mean where the coils and spark plug are.

It says to disconnect the battery negative terminal. Is this necessary and if I do this will it reset anything that I will need to activate when connecting again

[doylebros]

Found a guide so seems simple. I am presuming by cylinder it just mean where the coils and spark plug are.

It says to disconnect the battery negative terminal. Is this necessary and if I do this will it reset anything that I will need to activate when connecting again

This guide is comprehensive https://changegears.wordpress.com/maintenance-information/diy-spark-plug-change/
I wouldn't bother disconnecting the battery as it will require various items reset!

[irish_ram]

Right so couldn't wait until the morning so did a diag test.

So I scanned the car again with coils in original 1-2-3-4 and got the misfire random and cylinder 2 misfire

Then swap coils so it was 2-1-3-4 and scanned and cylinder faults gone but 2 other faults as below

Address 01: Engine        Labels: None
   Part No SW: 1K0 907 115 L    HW: 8P0 907 115 B
   Component: 2.0l R4/4V TFSI     0030 
   Revision: 5BH16---    Serial number: VWZ7Z0F8211388
   Coding: 040300031C070060
   Shop #: WSC 00717 210 83406
   VCID: 2F6DF537BEE897663D9-807A

2 Faults Found:
012691 - Can't Decode, CODE File Not Loaded!
               P3193 - 002 -
             Freeze Frame:
                    Fault Status: 01100010
                    Fault Priority: 0
                    Fault Frequency: 1
                    Reset counter: 255
                    Mileage: 115706 km
                    Time Indication: 0
                    Date: 2000.00.00
                    Time: 21:08:34

             Freeze Frame:
                    RPM: 0 /min
                    Load: 0.0 %
                    Speed: 0.0 km/h
                    Temperature: 65.0°C
                    Temperature: 36.0°C
                    Absolute Pres.: 1020.0 mbar
                    Voltage: 12.446 V

001602 - Can't Decode, CODE File Not Loaded!
               P0642 - 002 -
             Freeze Frame:
                    Fault Status: 01100010
                    Fault Priority: 0
                    Fault Frequency: 1
                    Reset counter: 255
                    Mileage: 115706 km
                    Time Indication: 0
                    Date: 2000.00.00
                    Time: 21:08:34

             Freeze Frame:
                    RPM: 0 /min
                    Load: 0.0 %
                    Speed: 0.0 km/h
                    Temperature: 65.0°C
                    Temperature: 36.0°C
                    Absolute Pres.: 1020.0 mbar
                    Voltage: 12.446 V

Swapped coils around again to 1-3-2-4 and scan had same 2 faults only

On both occasions tried a basic setting which it advised but faults still there
Also started the Engine and EML was gone but the same judder was there and all the same symptoms and stopped juddering when keeping revs at around 2000.

So eventually swapped back to original 1-2-3-4 and still just the 2 faults and all the same symptoms but EML off

I suspect if I had of drove the EML would have eventually come back on.

This is confusing me more as could mean there is no cylinder issue but something else wong with these other 2 faults or could be throwing up a red herring. I was hoping to see the misfire change to wherever I put coil 2 or stay on coil 2 but to disappear was strange

[irish_ram]

Think it may be a trip to the garage tomorrow anyway but would have liked to have gone with some idea.

I do have the third party warranty that covers the majority of mechanical engine failures so may book it into the stealers if all will be hopefully paid for apart from the diags as they are never usually covered 

[irish_ram]

So to make matters worse the car is due a Service and the likely hood from the Warranty people is they will not cover the cost unless Service has been carried out.

So my options are go with the Warranty as they said they can book me in For Service and Repair if need as according to them from what I told them it could be the Service fixes it. Not sure how likely this is. They can do a Service for £179(apparently to VW standards) and then if still a fault because of the age of my car if they cover the diags and repair I will have to contribute between 10-20%

Other option is I get the Service done somewhere else cheaper and if does not fix the repair I fork out for any diag work done myself and then hand it over to the Warranty to again do diags and repair if covered and I pay the 10-20%

Third option is and I have been here before so even though little amounts is to try and fix myself by replacing coils etc. The upside of this is i end up spending say 30-40 quid and fix the issue or the more likely downside is I end up spending a lot and still have to take it in for repair. Also would eventually need to Service it anyway.

Advice please and does anyone know what a VW Service would likely cost?

[Dan_FR]

First of all, fix your clone VCDS!!

Secondly, stop relying on fault codes and start looking at live data... Get on the misifre counter, check the camshaft adjustment and see if the camshaft adjuster is doing its job etc etc. You have one of the best diagnostic tools for VAG cars and you're using it as a £10 OBD code reader.

Go through the measuring blocks one by one if needed, google anything youre unsure of and make sure things are reading as they should. Camshaft adjuster and position are block 93 i think (its in the 90's... maybe 96?). It tells you the current position and what the ECi is requesting, and both of these should be the same! If they're not, you have issues

[irish_ram]

First of all, fix your clone VCDS!!

Secondly, stop relying on fault codes and start looking at live data... Get on the misifre counter, check the camshaft adjustment and see if the camshaft adjuster is doing its job etc etc. You have one of the best diagnostic tools for VAG cars and you're using it as a £10 OBD code reader.

Go through the measuring blocks one by one if needed, google anything youre unsure of and make sure things are reading as they should. Camshaft adjuster and position are block 93 i think (its in the 90's... maybe 96?). It tells you the current position and what the ECi is requesting, and both of these should be the same! If they're not, you have issues

Well in the current situation I am deifnately not in a position to fork out for the full VCDS even though I would love to 

I am using Rosstech VCDS with a third party cable so I know that potentially will not always work but my understanding is will give enough info so not a OBD Code reader but not sure if makes a difference

With my lack of experience it is unlikely I would be able to repair anyway but anything I can do to diagnose would be good. I have already swapped the coils around which seems to have got rid of the misfire errors although I was expecting the misfire to change to different cylinders rather than disappear

Your info sounds good but I would need a guide on how to check measuring blocks etc. Once I found a guide for the coil swaps I am handy enough to be able to do it. So what would I need to check and how on measuring blocks

[Dan_FR]

I said fix, not buy new. The OBD codes are not being loaded. A re-install might help.

Measuring block data is fairly self-explanatory, each bit of data is labelled and usually tells you what it should be roughly seeing. Check the camshaft block (it’s in the 90's and clearly labelled), see what it reads at idle, and chuck a screenshot up, or a data log or even a short video of it

Swapping coils around won't fix anything, so I’m betting the misfire is not spark related.

[irish_ram]

I said fix, not buy new. The OBD codes are not being loaded. A re-install might help.

Measuring block data is fairly self-explanatory, each bit of data is labelled and usually tells you what it should be roughly seeing. Check the camshaft block (it’s in the 90's and clearly labelled), see what it reads at idle, and chuck a screenshot up, or a data log or even a short video of it

Swapping coils around won't fix anything, so I’m betting the misfire is not spark related.

No probs, yeah I have tried re-install before. Might be the cable but just weird it will scan the car but not load the codes and lets me into to change mod setting screen but doesn't give the usual info of what is what on the byte and when change stuff it doesnt activate correctly even though it says it has. I am wondering if maybe the car is the issue

Just doing the measuring blocks now and will post up

Thanks 

[Dan_FR]

It's the label files that are not being loaded, not a car issue but an issue with your copy of VCDS

Will keep an eye out later as i can't view any media on the works PC