Induction Kit - Metal pipe work

[MarkyN]

Seen this on eBay
http://www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/351329110743

I know the filter probably won't be the best, but am just wondering if anyone has used this set up?
I was thinking of getting it bought, wrapping the pipe in heat proof tape while modding the engine cover to take the pipe work and then eventually getting a better filter

[Dan_FR]

No. Cheapest decent one is the RamAir Oversized intake.

[MarkyN]

I have seen the over sized one. I was thinking about getting it, but I just read that trying to keep most of the pipe work metal would be better than having little bits of silicone sections

[Dan_FR]

Having a decent sized pipe rather than a glorified metal straw, as well as heat shielding, decent MAF scaling and a decent filter would help.

There are plenty of kits out there that perform flawlessly and have multiple joins, but seriously the kit linked above is not the answer

[flashp]

I think for the cars sake you'd be better off with the OE intake system.
There's a reason some of these cost what they do and it's to cover development costs, at least initially. Some are also definitely made to cost where others aren't.
If you put the development work/costs aside it can appear poor value for money granted.

Heat shielding is almost academic as your inducted air will get heated by the turbo casing before hitting the intercooler where the air is cooled and, in an ideal world, made more dense for better combustion.

I wouldn't even be convinced that the expensive CAM coating on one of the Revo's will give you anything worthwhile. Stage 2 upwards requires more air, this is all they do. To do this effectively without penalty you need correct MAF scaling etc. There's some sense in using a Revo intake if you have a Revo map.

As to all these cheap intakes all they'll probably add is noise and may even screw up more important aspects of your induction system.

Find an Evoms either new or second hand if funds are tight. These are a proven filter system that were cheaper than Revo.

[MarkyN]

Cheers for the helpful information lads. I'll give this induction a miss then and wait on until I find a decent one worth spending money on.
I am after a remapped year at some point but I just thought if I can get an induction kit sorted, an exhaust system sorted and a couple of other small upgraded items done then I would be getting the most of the map that I'll be getting done.

Ebay hunting continues

[flashp]

Cheers for the helpful information lads. I'll give this induction a miss then and wait on until I find a decent one worth spending money on.
I am after a remapped year at some point but I just thought if I can get an induction kit sorted, an exhaust system sorted and a couple of other small upgraded items done then I would be getting the most of the map that I'll be getting done.

Ebay hunting continues

Here's a start: http://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,103221.0.html

[flashp]

Cheers for the helpful information lads. I'll give this induction a miss then and wait on until I find a decent one worth spending money on.
I am after a remapped year at some point but I just thought if I can get an induction kit sorted, an exhaust system sorted and a couple of other small upgraded items done then I would be getting the most of the map that I'll be getting done.

Ebay hunting continues

Bear in mind that an intake at stage 1 for some can spoil the torque delivery characteristics of the tune and the map itself does not require an intake. I certainly feel that a stage 1 map feels nicer with a standard intake. This effect is negated somewhat when you get to stage 2 upwards where the standard intake can have problems flowing enough air at the top of the rev range. But for many, particularly with road only vehicles, the standard system works very well at this tuning level. I've often been curious to try a standard intake on a stage 2 car. If I didn't do occasional track days I feel I would be running a standard intake.

Chasing numbers on a rolling road doesn't always equate to a car that's nice to drive. I came down from a stage 2+ map to 2 because the curves shown on a Dyno were better looking and it did mean the car was better to drive. I now have 330bhp and a drop of say 15bhp and 30lb/ft of torque is barely noticeable between the maps, if at all. A DSG map gives access to a 7200rpm rev limit, which again is supported fully with an intake and fuel pump upgrade.

For stage 1 upwards consider a high pressure fuel pump http://www.awesomegti.com/apr-high-pressure-fuel-pump-2-0t-fsi-vw-golf-mk5 or http://www.awesomegti.com/loba-fuel-pump-sw10007. Our OE pumps can sometimes have problems maintaining good delivery (and AFR) at certain points in the rev range. This is a good explanation: https://www.goapr.com/products/fsi_fuel_pump.html
You won't get more power but you will safeguard your engine and it will assist in creating a very solid platform for you to go about the rest of your tuning. 

For an example these are plots extracted from my RR data.

On the left hand BHP and Torque graphs the blue plots are for stage 2 and the red for stage 2+. On the right hand graphs the red plots are for torque and the blue bhp.