Changing down gears

[Ditto]

Perhaps a silly question but hope you can help. With my GTI when I change down gear (in a manual box) and apply no gas, it doesn't seem to want to engage into gear when changing down any gear (for example from 5th to 4th, 4th to 3rd etc.) unless I double de-clutch. Feel it not wanting to move through the gear stick.

However if I blip the throttle before engaging the new gear it seems to slot in smoothly and the same when stationary. Is this normal that the revs need to match?

Changing up gears are fine and the clutch biting point is low down the pedal.

Previous cars haven't had this, could it perhaps be the syncro?

Thanks

[hlcst]

Perhaps a silly question but hope you can help. With my GTI when I change down gear (in a manual box) and apply no gas, it doesn't seem to want to engage into gear when changing down any gear (for example from 5th to 4th, 4th to 3rd etc.) unless I double de-clutch. Feel it not wanting to move through the gear stick.

However if I blip the throttle before engaging the new gear it seems to slot in smoothly and the same when stationary. Is this normal that the revs need to match?

Changing up gears are fine and the clutch biting point is low down the pedal.

Previous cars haven't had this, could it perhaps be the syncro?

Thanks

That does not sound right to me as my gear changes are smooth and I have no need to blip the throttle.

What I can say is, from your symptoms, this is what happened to my old fiesta st before the clutch died going down a hill in 3rd gear towards Alton Towers.

[john87]

Ditto ^^

Sounds like the clutch may be on its' way out, or isn't fully disengaging.. or worst-case scenario, the sychromeshes are damaged. This would be unlikely though

[dazza]

Like other have said sounds like the clutch. I have a low biting point on my other car, over the past few months gear changes have got harder and now it crunches into every gear. Tried bleeding the clutch with no improvements. Will be replacing the clutch, dmf and slave cylinder next week.   

[Ditto]

Thanks for your help guys.

I thought that if the clutch was going it'd also be a problem changing up gears (from 2nd to 3rd etc.)?

Is there anyway I can tell it's the syncro? Would blipping the throttle and it being smooth indicate this?

When you say low biting point, does that mean that the foot is near the floor? My biting point is probably 3/4s down when pressing the pedal.

Thanks again

[pudding]

Low bite point = clutch plate not shot.  High bite point = clutch plate needs replacing

Worn syncro = crunching gears at all times regardless of clutch condition

There are different loadings on the gearshafts when changing up and changing down but it sounds to me like the clutch plate is dragging if pressing the pedal a couple of times makes the shift go in.  Could be a release bearing starting to go.  Could be a clutch master cylinder starting to go.  Could just be a tired clutch, despite the friction disc being OK still.

You could also try realigning the shift cables.  There's a procedure on the interweb somewhere.

[Ditto]

Low bite point = clutch plate not shot.  High bite point = clutch plate needs replacing

Worn syncro = crunching gears at all times regardless of clutch condition

There are different loadings on the gearshafts when changing up and changing down but it sounds to me like the clutch plate is dragging if pressing the pedal a couple of times makes the shift go in.  Could be a release bearing starting to go.  Could be a clutch master cylinder starting to go.  Could just be a tired clutch, despite the friction disc being OK still.

You could also try realigning the shift cables.  There's a procedure on the interweb somewhere.

Thanks @Pudding

It's a lot more noticeable when you're wishing to change down and revs are slightly to low to match the gear you're going to (ie. a overtake or miss matched the revs).

From what you're saying as the bite point is near the floor of the car (high bite point?) that might indicate the clutch plate going?

There's no crunching in changing up or down.

You can engage down a gear without having to re-apply the clutch, it just doesn't slide into gear and you have to almost push the gear stick with slight more force and wait a moment longer.

If you double de-clutch or give it small revs (to match) when changing down it goes into the gear fine.

Thanks

[pudding]

If the bite point is near the floor, i.e. at the bottom of the pedal travel, the friction disc sounds OK to me.  The more the friction disc wears, the further up the pedal travel the bite happens, and the clutch gets heavier with it as the pressure plate springs have to move further.  How many miles on it?

If the syncros were shot, it would definitely crunch.  Is this problem consistent, regardless of temperature?

Have you checked the fluid level in the brake reservoir?  Could be a leaking slave cylinder, aka concentric release bearing, which is inside the gearbox unfortunately!

[Ditto]

If the bite point is near the floor, i.e. at the bottom of the pedal travel, the friction disc sounds OK to me.  The more the friction disc wears, the further up the pedal travel the bite happens, and the clutch gets heavier with it as the pressure plate springs have to move further.  How many miles on it?

If the syncros were shot, it would definitely crunch.  Is this problem consistent, regardless of temperature?

Have you checked the fluid level in the brake reservoir?  Could be a leaking slave cylinder, aka concentric release bearing, which is inside the gearbox unfortunately!

@Pudding, the car has done 77k? It happens no matter the temperature and the brake reservoir level seems ok to me, where should it be?

Is the slave cylinder and the release bearing the same thing? Would you except these to go on this mileage?

Great help as always!

[Ditto]

@Pudding just noticed when the car's off and silent you can hear a springy noise when the clutch peddle reaches the biting point. Is that the release bearing?

It only does squeaks when you press down not lift off...