URGENT oil pressure stop engine

[Pesky jones]

In my mind I still have several options and id really like to narrow it down.

1)   Inspect crankshaft for wear, inspect oil pump in situ (if I can access it), observe valves, remove cam cover and inspect chain and tensioner. Hopefully find some type of definitive reason for engine cutting out/not turning on and go from there
2)   Tow it to a trusted garage forty minutes away and have them inspect it fair bit of cost for towing and inspection but then ill have an answer.
3)   Cut my losses now and realise that I need a new engine 

Thanks

[Pesky jones]

Dazza has offered to lend me his cam locking tool  If I can get the engine to TDC, then the cam locking tool should slide into place between the two cams. This will confirm whether or not there have been any jumps in the timing (wont go in if not correctly timed). I'd say this is worth doing, right?

Can I get the engine to what should be TDC from the crankshaft or if I expose the camshaft ends at the cam chain end, can I do it from there?

[r5gtt]

That's very kind of @dazza 

There are also notches on the chain but I guess you won't know what to look for when timing them up.

Good luck 

[dazza]

happy to help out.

You turn the crank to get it to TDC.

I think you have the old style cam belt cover with the window so remove the window.

Find the indent in the black metal plate behind the crank pulley add some tipex to it and the indent in the pulley like pic below.

Turn the crank until they line up.

[Pesky jones]

How hard is to remove the cam belt upper cover Daz?

My plan tonight is to rotate the crankshaft to TDC using marks. Remove cambelt cover, check if it is now at TDC by checking notches on cambelt pulley line up. Remove valve cover. Remove cam cover. Are there any timing indications at this end of the head? and finally fit locking tool to ensure that timing is correct. Check cam chain for play, damage, wear etc.

Tomorrow morning when marius is with me im going to remove the oil pump cover (I think this is just some tabs I need to press in to remove) to check the sprockets and chain, and at the other end check the balance shafts. if anyone has any advice on this it would be much appreciated! In the Haynes manual it says you can strip it back in situ, although im not sure how far I can go before I have to replace the bolts (apparently 600£?!)

Also I have a boroscope from work so Ill see if that comes in handy.

[pudding]

Just been skim reading the past couple of pages and things sound OK to me.   You're getting a squish sound every 2 crank turns (suck, squeeze, bang, blow - 4 stroke engine), which is compression.  I did say remove the spark plugs if you want the engine to turn over easier, but the squishing confirms you've not got any bent valves and the fact it is turning over means it's not seized either

Can you not see the conrods from the bottom without taking the oil pump / balancer / girdle plate thingy off?  If you can, look for discolouration.  An overheated big end bearing would make the rod turn a bluish colour.  If they all look the same colour (brown from oil staining or gunmetal), move on.

What I would do is carry on as you are checking the timing and if it's good, just start it mate and see what happens.   What was the VCDS error again?  "Cam / crank correlation - set point not reached" by any chance?  That would definitely indicate a chain related issue.

[Pesky jones]

Just been skim reading the past couple of pages and things sound OK to me.   You're getting a squish sound every 2 crank turns (suck, squeeze, bang, blow - 4 stroke engine), which is compression.  I did say remove the spark plugs if you want the engine to turn over easier, but the squishing confirms you've not got any bent valves and the fact it is turning over means it's not seized either

Can you not see the conrods from the bottom without taking the oil pump / balancer / girdle plate thingy off?  If you can, look for discolouration.  An overheated big end bearing would make the rod turn a bluish colour.  If they all look the same colour (brown from oil staining or gunmetal), move on.

What I would do is carry on as you are checking the timing and if it's good, just start it mate and see what happens.   What was the VCDS error again?  "Cam / crank correlation - set point not reached" by any chance?  That would definitely indicate a chain related issue.

Thanks @Pudding I think I will do. The error was P0011 - "A" Camshaft Position - Timing Over-Advanced or System Performance (Bank 1)

I think I have to remove a few bolts on the cover above the sump, and the crankshaft will be revealed. I'm not sure this is removing the oil pump, but im not clear on it. I'll check the conrods if i can and bearings for colouring and wear as you have said.

[dazza]

How hard is to remove the cam belt upper cover Daz?

Should be one plastic screw flip it to open then pop it off. (if you have the old style cover).

[Pesky jones]

Thanks guys.

Quick question - is the cam chain tensioner hydraulic or is it on a spring? My prediction is that when I take the cam cover off my tensioners going to have failed. Hence why im asking about how it does its job - if its hydraulic then could the lack of oil pressure potentially caused it to fail?

[pudding]

It's hydraulic mate.  It probably has a pre-load spring in it as well to help keep things taught during assembly, so the chain is unlikely to be loose and sloppy as you're expecting. 

Two things usually happen with hydraulic tensioners, 1 - they run out of travel because the chain is worn out or 2 - they leak internally, which causes a pressure drop.   

Tensioners with plastic pads can also wear down (the plastic bit) which also reduces it's tensioning travel.

[ady-gti]

Yes the upper part is hydraulic afaik, you can take a look here: http://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=93695.0

[Pesky jones]

It's hydraulic mate.  It probably has a pre-load spring in it as well to help keep things taught during assembly, so the chain is unlikely to be loose and sloppy as you're expecting. 

Two things usually happen with hydraulic tensioners, 1 - they run out of travel because the chain is worn out or 2 - they leak internally, which causes a pressure drop.   

Tensioners with plastic pads can also wear down (the plastic bit) which also reduces it's tensioning travel.

Oh, so me hoping to see tensioner failed will not tell me that the oil pump hasn't failed isn't going to happen? It could still be the oil pump.

I'll go ahead anyway and see what I find with the timing.

[pudding]

I can't see how the pump would fail completely unless it's drive chain snapped tbh.  A bit of crap blocking the pick-up wouldn't stop it working, it would just restrict it.  Clear the restriction and it's golden again.

The tensioner / chain wear is a common issue on this engine so it's more than likely that mate.

[Pesky jones]

Yeah I intend to check the chain and sprocket of the oil pump (you don't have to remove the pump to do this).

If the pick up pipe wouldn't stop the engine, then I still have the question what caused it to cut out, and why isn't it starting now. If them tensioner has failed, then this might cause the engine to stop and not start again, correct? I however don't want to replace the chain tensioner etc without knowing for sure... its difficult.

[pudding]

I know on the TSI engine if the chain wears out to a certain point, the engine won't start at all.  Probably because the ECU can't figure out where the cam is in relation to the crank anymore.  I wonder if that's true of the TFSI?