URGENT oil pressure stop engine

[maicol1524]

Now I'm having the same problem, if resolve something please tell us, thanks


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[andy1979uk]

Search hard on eBay, some of them want £1400 others will settle for £1k. Delivery is another £60 and refitting cost me £500 labor. I managed to get a 73k complete engine with history for £900 off a private buyer (no warranty). I was then able to sell turbo, alternator etc to claw back some money. I also took the oppertunity to renew the cambelt and replace the dual mass and clutch (not cheap) but zero labour while engine is on the flaw. Total cost was about 2k to get the car going again but more like £1100 if take salvage parts from engine and exclude clutch work which I would have had to do at some point down the road anyway.

[r5gtt]

Bottom end to keep in mind

222014133509

[Pesky jones]

Right, ive got a new idea/ plan. Going to investigate further myself.

This is my theory. Before the incident, my engine sounded rattly when warm. Probably something to do with the cam chain/tensioner etc.

So on the day of the track day, something brakes in my.hydraulic tensioner causing it to no longer hold the right oil pressure (giving low pressure dash message) then, because no oil pressure in tensioner, the chain slips and the timing goes ( resulting in cutting out and refusing to turn back on )

This is a feasible reason for everything isnt it? Now just to prove it.

[rich83]

Have you had the cam cover and cam chain cover off yet?

[Pesky jones]

Have you had the cam cover and cam chain cover off yet?

Not yet. Started but struggled to get the rear breather pipes off the back. Thought I might be able to get the cover off first and that might be easier to get the pipes off at the back. Was late though and struggled to get the valve cover off as it was stuck pretty tight and didnt want to damage the gasket or mating service as I dont want to have to fork out for a new gasket at the moment.

Il try again soon.

Do you think my theory about the tensioner could be.right @rich83 ?

I also want to see if I can.borrow a compression gauge off a mate to check each cylinder before taking the cover off. Am I right in thinking that I just unscrew the spark.plugs and screw in the gauge and.then turn the engine over at the ignition whilst checking the gauge?

[dazza]

The larger pipe is a pita. Im sure someone on here can give you some pointers. Its best i don't say how i got mine off. 

[doylebros]

Pesky you've got to give yourself the best chance when doing anywork in this area as its all tight - plenty time - good lighting and good tools to start with.

Before removing the cover set the Tbelt to all the TDC marks for the necessary pulleys as per the links previously given - that way you can check if the chain has jumped a tooth or the belts jumped any teeth before a compression test as that's going to involve the starter motor which will do more damage if your not careful.

The valve cover removal may again take a bit brute force or a knock with a plastic hammer.
The hoses just work on them with a pick and a bit pen oil spray they will come off.

[Pesky jones]

Thanks for the advice guys

I will try to get the timing clarified before the compression test then.

Turn crankshaft to TDC, marked with tip ex etc. Then go up top, remove cam belt cover and check that the cambelt pulley is also lined up correctly? IF these two are correct, then il remove the valve cover, HPFP and cam cover and look at the cam chain/ observe camshafts turning as I turn the crankshaft. IF both camshafts are turning then il try to insert the tool @dazza  kindly lent me.

Ideally I want to see a damaged tensioner which would back my theory up that the tensioner failed and leaked oil resulting in low oil pressure, which caused the timing to go out, resulting in it cutting out and refusing to start again

[maicol1524]

Thanks for the advice guys

I will try to get the timing clarified before the compression test then.

Turn crankshaft to TDC, marked with tip ex etc. Then go up top, remove cam belt cover and check that the cambelt pulley is also lined up correctly? IF these two are correct, then il remove the valve cover, HPFP and cam cover and look at the cam chain/ observe camshafts turning as I turn the crankshaft. IF both camshafts are turning then il try to insert the tool @dazza  kindly lent me.

Ideally I want to see a damaged tensioner which would back my theory up that the tensioner failed and leaked oil resulting in low oil pressure, which caused the timing to go out, resulting in it cutting out and refusing to start again

No updates for today?


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[Pesky jones]

Thanks for the advice guys

I will try to get the timing clarified before the compression test then.

Turn crankshaft to TDC, marked with tip ex etc. Then go up top, remove cam belt cover and check that the cambelt pulley is also lined up correctly? IF these two are correct, then il remove the valve cover, HPFP and cam cover and look at the cam chain/ observe camshafts turning as I turn the crankshaft. IF both camshafts are turning then il try to insert the tool @dazza  kindly lent me.

Ideally I want to see a damaged tensioner which would back my theory up that the tensioner failed and leaked oil resulting in low oil pressure, which caused the timing to go out, resulting in it cutting out and refusing to start again

No updates for today?


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Afraid not, I'm going to check the crankshaft and camshaft cam belt tonight to eliminate the cambelt tonight, so will update this evening.

I plan on taking the valve and cam cover off on Saturday with plenty of time and daylight so will update about that Saturday

[Pesky jones]

I didnt have long tonight but I couldnt find either the camshaft or the crankshaft TDC. I cant get in to see rhe cambelt pulley properly.



And I cant see the top of the crankshaft pulley properley as the chassis is in the way. I filmed it on my phone and the only thing I can see is this tiny little triangular indent on the pulley, nothing on the back plate. In the video I start at the top of the pulley and.go anti clockwise looking for the TDC mark

[dazza]

You can see the indent in the back plate in seconds 5/6 & 36.

I used my phone to line up the cam shaft when i was doing the cam chain the viewing window is useless.

[r5gtt]

Quicker way was to put a long driver in plug closest to cam and get it to tdc rocking neither up nor down so that's central and TDC marked up.
The driver has to be at the highest point when tdc is marked up.

[Pesky jones]

Cheers guys, so il try using my phone ha. Is the camshaft tdc mark where the one shown dazza posted on page 10.

And is the triangular indent on the crankshaft pulley the tdc mark?