URGENT oil pressure stop engine

[pudding]

A compression test will soon show up any bent valves.

You've come this far, so just time it up, replace the tensioner and chain, compression test it then fire the old beast up...... and cross your fingers 

Too much procrastinating and not enough action.  Get on with it man 

Just kidding.  I feel your anguish and caution, but the only way forward is the above 

[doylebros]

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B00HVD0A40/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?qid=1457959021&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=torx+long+reach&dpPl=1&dpID=416D4nZQ3RL&ref=plSrch

What do people think about these, im worried they will still be too chunky

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B00DPYMU9M/ref=cm_cr_arp_mb_bdcrb_top?ie=UTF8

These seem skinnier but only 100mm long. I think this will be long enough. Think this set also contains t27 and t30. The guide ive been following says they are t27 bolts but ive been.using a t30 so far and it fits fine?

Top set will do the job best.

[Pesky jones]

Haha cheers. @doylebros, ok yeah I'll order them in a minute, I'm slightly confused by this t27 business. Like I said the guide says t27bolts whereas I've been using a t30 up untill now and it's been fine. The link doesn't include a t27, but it does include a t30 so I'll go ahead and get these.

@Pudding , yeah I'm as eager to back on the road as anyone, especially as the weathers getting nice and I've only had the remap and springs for the winter and haven't been able to use them properly yet.

Once I confirm the tensioner is properly shot, I will get a new tensioner and chain, I think there may be some other bits I'll end as well and try and re time it all up and compression test it. To re time it up with the new chain and tensioner, will I need to muck around with the cambelt or can it all be done from the cam chain end?

One thing I'm thinking is to undo the adjuster bolt, I'll need the cam locking tool to be in place to hold the exhaust camshaft in place while I pull at it with the breaker bar. However, my inlet cam is obviously not in the right place, so the cam locking tool won't slide in place thus not holding the exhaust camshaft in place. Any thoughts or advice???

[dazza]

IIRC the bars in the locking tool can be removed. If so check everything is tight and not damaged this tool has been used a number of times since i've seen it.

[dazza]

Is there a chance the chain could be snapped?

[doylebros]

In your case once you release the chain you'll be able to move the inlet camshaft on its own to reposition it but it's not the method I would use (head off and tear down cause it would be easier to win the lottery than not have damage).
The cambelt needs checked for missing teeth and "Get help when doing the chain removal"
Item 7
http://parts-catalogs.club/volkswagen/en/?i=cat_vag_models&brand=vw&number=1714&set=1728&ein=2007&f=474&hauptgr=1234567890&hg=1&grf=010915420&bf=10915&hgug=109&ug=09&parent_id=2335700
Will be tight and needs someone to keep the power bar pushed against the bolt so you don't chew the bolt end up.

[rich83]

A compression test will soon show up any bent valves.

You've come this far, so just time it up, replace the tensioner and chain, compression test it then fire the old beast up...... and cross your fingers 

Too much procrastinating and not enough action.  Get on with it man 

Just kidding.  I feel your anguish and caution, but the only way forward is the above 

Compression can only be checked if the valves/cams are timed correctly.

[Pesky jones]

@dazza ok ill check it out to see if it can be removed. There is a chance the chain could be snapped.

@doylebros I understand once the chain is released ill be able to move the inlet cam by itself, but its being able to undo the adjuster bolt first to release the chain, seeing as id need the cam locking tool to be in place to hold the exhaust cam in place. Unless of couse I can remove the inlet cam part of the tool, or the chain is snapped. I will get a nate to hold the tool in place.

@rich83 I think pudding meant compression test once ive timed it all up correctly, and then if im lacking.compression then it will.confirm bent valves

I think its 99% that valves are.damaged like doylebros says, so im in two minds whether to replace the chain and tensioner and put it all back together only for it to have no compression.

Would you say that removing head to look at valves is out of my league, be honest

[doylebros]

You'll hit major tooling issues if you do the head yourself - take the head off and give it to a third party to rebuild decoke etc.

When you get the cover off you'll be able to decided how to deal with the chain - I don't see get the cams realigned as a challenge for you,yet loosening item 7 will most likely be an absolute fu*ker

[Pesky jones]

Ok thanks mate, so if I took the head off then would I send the head including camshafts, valves etc or would I take the camshafts out and just send the head with valves for repair?

Then once I get it back then fit new tensioner and chain and time it back up?

Ill start looking into the job of removing the head

[doylebros]

Let's go back a few steps and see why we have the problem first - cover off and see what you find.
eBay will have service exchange heads or even try a motor factor like Andrew Page for a price.

[Pesky jones]

Ok yeah I have a habit of jumping the gun. I guess I just want to know what happens further down the line..ill report back once the cover is off.

[Pesky jones]

My dads just told me to f*cking get on with it 

[doylebros]

My dads just told me to f*cking get on with it 

Tell Daddy to get that bolt out and he'll sharp go from a Tiger to a Pussy Cat.

[r5gtt]

My dads just told me to f*cking get on with it 

Yeah  hurry the hell up