URGENT oil pressure stop engine

[rich83]

You know you can manually check the cam position? There are notches you can line up.

[doylebros]

A missing bolt can cause vacuum leaks which gives rough running like your experiencing so if you've got something to use temporary put it in there.

Reclean away any oil spillage from past running.

Take nothing apart as you know what the leak is and the above bolt will cure it  - Build it back up as it was before the strip down.

Simple steps so you know each stage is done right.

A fully charged battery to prevent unnecessary electrical DTCs codes.
 
Do an autoscan and clear all DTCs so you know where your starting from. Then rerun it and do your VCDS testes for timing and report back.

[Pesky jones]

There was no bolt before the strip down. Dont know how long its been missing. Dont think I have any bolts that will fit, will have to get it from tps.

although when I removed the other two bolts to take the vacuum pump off the cover (to look for plastic bits) I might have put the two bolts back in different holes by mistake. Therfore potentially leaving the third hole that had a bolt in it previously without a bolt which makes sense because I never noticed a pool of oil before.

[Pesky jones]

So  the timings well out 28 requested and -3.5/4 on actual! How could it be this far out? Is it worth me trying the timing again? I dont know how much better id get it the second time around.

Its strange, it almost sounds perfect on start up for about twnety seconds, then gets progressively worse. After twi minutes its really bad.

[Dan_FR]

After 20 seconds or so the cam advance changes, and the cold start routine designed to superheat the catalytic converter stops..... Sounds like the N205 is working? Either way timing is most definitely out and will need doing again.

[Pesky jones]

Strange, I mean I cant see why it wouldnt be working, as I snapped the plastic but glued it back on, the two metal prongs still protrude through and I think touch th sensor. But p1351 fault code says n205 valve broken.

I dont mind trying to do the timing again but I dont see how I went so wrong the first time. A difference of 30 odd degrees seems like a lot. I thought I got it spot on! Its a shame there arent marks like the crankshaft and exhaust cam pulley.

[Dan_FR]

Its an open circuit fault, needs replacing if you are getting this. Once replaced, check block 091 again and see if the reading has improved

30 odd degrees is only a tooth or two out

[Pesky jones]

Ok well il replace the n205 tomorrow and log it again. So is there a chance the timing might not be out?

[doylebros]

The vehicle starting and running is the most important factor and you've got that.

If I was you I would leave the strip down for rechecking the timing till after you've tried the valve, as said above. If it shows no improvement it's back to checking the timing but you'll be much quicker and more confident and may even enjoy it.
My thoughts are its only one tooth out but tomorrow will tell us.

[Pesky jones]

Ok cheers guys. Fingers crossed its just the valve then.

Here's the video from start up today

You can see near the end of the video when I rev it the noise goes and also the engine completely stops shaking!

[Pesky jones]

@Dan_FR Just wondering what you change your mind here?

After 20 seconds or so the cam advance changes, and the cold start routine designed to superheat the catalytic converter stops..... Sounds like the N205 is working?

Its an open circuit fault, needs replacing if you are getting this. Once replaced, check block 091 again and see if the reading has improved

30 odd degrees is only a tooth or two out

I'm really hoping the valve stops the noise and corrects the timing issue!

[Dan_FR]

Something can still work, even if not fully or correctly yet still flag a fault, if the resistance is too high or too low. It could be other changes rather than just the N205 that affect the idle, as during the same cold start procedure, there is also a period of dual fuel injection where the injector fires twice.... again aimed at warming up the cat which could be affecting this.

VCDS will tell you for sure whether the cam adjuster is doing anything. To be honest I didn't see what fault codes you'd picked up previously - too many pages to go through! Let us know what happens when you get an N205 on there. Might be worth going to a few scrapyards to find one as I'm pretty sure its the same part on most if not all 2.0 TFSI lump

Typically I always see this thread when I'm in work and can never view any media 

[pudding]

So  the timings well out 28 requested and -3.5/4 on actual! How could it be this far out? Is it worth me trying the timing again? I dont know how much better id get it the second time around.

Its strange, it almost sounds perfect on start up for about twnety seconds, then gets progressively worse. After twi minutes its really bad.

Yep, the cam adjuster is not advancing.   It's not possible to get the physical timing that far out.  The cam locking tool simply won't allow that much misalignment.  30 degrees is a lot more than one tooth off.

[Pesky jones]

Something can still work, even if not fully or correctly yet still flag a fault, if the resistance is too high or too low. It could be other changes rather than just the N205 that affect the idle, as during the same cold start procedure, there is also a period of dual fuel injection where the injector fires twice.... again aimed at warming up the cat which could be affecting this.

VCDS will tell you for sure whether the cam adjuster is doing anything. To be honest I didn't see what fault codes you'd picked up previously - too many pages to go through! Let us know what happens when you get an N205 on there. Might be worth going to a few scrapyards to find one as I'm pretty sure its the same part on most if not all 2.0 TFSI lump

Typically I always see this thread when I'm in work and can never view any media 

I'm picking one up from TPS today at lunch, didn't think about scrapyards. At least Ill know I have an operational one! Will let you know

Yep, the cam adjuster is not advancing.   It's not possible to get the physical timing that far out.  The cam locking tool simply won't allow that much misalignment.  30 degrees is a lot more than one tooth off.

I'm not sure I completely understand, correct me if i'm wrong - its not possible for me to get the physical timing 30 degrees out - so it must be the current n205 not doing its job properly? But if 30 degrees is more than one tooth, then I must have got the physical timing wrong? Surely the adjustor cant do its job if its a tooth or more out of timing?

[pudding]

I'm not sure I completely understand, correct me if i'm wrong - its not possible for me to get the physical timing 30 degrees out - so it must be the current n205 not doing its job properly? But if 30 degrees is more than one tooth, then I must have got the physical timing wrong? Surely the adjustor cant do its job if its a tooth or more out of timing?

Yep, the N205 isn't advancing the cam.   
I very much doubt it's a physical timing issue.  What does measuring block 93 say?  You're looking for around -2KW.