DIY - Cam Chain and Tensioner Guide

[muff1991]

Excellent guide - but a couple of things missing which I’m a bit confused about and would be grateful for some help with.

Once the adjuster bolt is cracked loose - why do you remove the bolt with a different tool? (The guide refers to tool T10020?).

And how do you adjust to timing if it's out - is it by turning the crank bolt with a breaker bar?

And finally, can the intake and exhaust cams be moved independently? I’ve done the timing on an old Peugeot and also on a couple of bmws, and the bmws have a clutch type arrangement which allow each cam to be turned independently and then locked.

Many thanks!!

Hi mate,
Done this job myself a few times for myself and others. Unless I’ve missed something here in the guide you don’t have to use a different tool to remove the cam adjuster bolt?? You need to use T40080 to crack the bolt and then use the same socket to extract the bolt (top tip: ONLY use the genuine T40080 from TPS/VW) don’t be trying that Laser or any aftermarket copy! They are crap and shatter! Trust me it happened to me the first time and I split my thumb wide open at breaking point!
The cams are semi independent as it’s the chain that links them, so once the chain is removed the intake cam can roll but the exhaust cam is a little sturdier as it’s still linked to the crank via the cam belt. Assuming you’ll be using the correct cam locking tool? Otherwise I really don’t think you’ll be able to crack that cam adjuster bolt? Someone would have found a way but I wouldn’t recommend. I found there’s no decent (if any) timing marks for the cams. Once the cambelt side is perfectly lined up you know the exhaust cam is lined up so it’s just a matter of lining the inlet cam. I found even with the cam locking tool.. (T10252) the inlet cam rolls back 1 tooth once the chain and adjuster is removed because the locking tool still allows the cams to rolls slightly, so once you’ve positioned the exhaust cam again via cambelt side the inlet is 1 tooth back and held there by the valves. But a good lining up I found is to dead set your cambelt timing (crank mark etc) then look directly at the cam shafts end from the chain side and look at the the second set of cam lobes away from you. Once done they should be pointing up and towards each other. So the inlet cam lobe will be 1 o’clock and the exhaust cam will be 11 o’clock. Once the cambelt is timed then the exhaust cam lobe should be at 11 o’clock (or there abouts) that’s when T10020 comes into play to pull the inlet cam to where it needs to be for when putting the chain on (1 o’clock). I too followed Rich’s guide and it’s a great guide, wouldn’t have learned without it! silly me tho didn’t mark up my cams with pen because I thought the locking tool would be perfect lol that’s how I learnt the hard way. If you can get your head around all my waffle above and digest it, you “should” be fine haha.
No clutch type arrangements on these cams I’m afraid. (Be sure to line the dowel at the back of the cam adjuster into the cam on the exhaust cam too)
Good luck. Plenty of help and advise from the forum if needed :-)


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[svvg]

Thanks for that - really helpful.

Yes - I’ve seen a few horror stories re shattered adjuster sockets (the Laser ones and other “equivalents”) and would always want genuine tools for timing jobs - but starts to make it not cost effective if I have to buy the tools vs pay the labour... Can’t seem to find anyone selling or renting used, but genuine,  tools on ebay so will price them up. Guess I could sell them afterwards actually....

“Only” other issue is that I’m a bit worried about shearing the head off the adjuster bolt, even with the correct socket - as really don’t fancy trying to drill it out!!! Not sure if fear will get the better of me!

Car sounds diesely on start up and then quietens down after a minute or so - and it judders a LOT too - but again settles down after a minute or two, so (after some feedback on here) I think it might be the oil pressure in the cam chain tensioner taking a while to build up?  When it’s warm it’s fine...

Thanks for feedback. Very much appreciated - and. I hope to contribute something back once I’m a bit more up to speed on these cars. (I’m all over the AGG mk3 8valve golf gti if that helps - and BMWs...!).

Thanks again.

[muff1991]

Thanks for that - really helpful.

Yes - I’ve seen a few horror stories re shattered adjuster sockets (the Laser ones and other “equivalents”) and would always want genuine tools for timing jobs - but starts to make it not cost effective if I have to buy the tools vs pay the labour... Can’t seem to find anyone selling or renting used, but genuine,  tools on ebay so will price them up. Guess I could sell them afterwards actually....

“Only” other issue is that I’m a bit worried about shearing the head off the adjuster bolt, even with the correct socket - as really don’t fancy trying to drill it out!!! Not sure if fear will get the better of me!

Car sounds diesely on start up and then quietens down after a minute or so - and it judders a LOT too - but again settles down after a minute or two, so (after some feedback on here) I think it might be the oil pressure in the cam chain tensioner taking a while to build up?  When it’s warm it’s fine...

Thanks for feedback. Very much appreciated - and. I hope to contribute something back once I’m a bit more up to speed on these cars. (I’m all over the AGG mk3 8valve golf gti if that helps - and BMWs...!).

Thanks again.

It could be the issue to do with the juddering etc, but I wouldn’t be so convinced myself. If your mileage is high and chains never been done it’ll be worth doing as a preventative.
If you go TPS and buy the socket just quote the T number. And then you can get the locking tool and cam movement tool all in a kit for about £30 on eBay. The locking tool works perfect, I have used both the genuine locking tool and the one from eBay I do really rate it mate. So realistically the “special tools” are only £40 for keeps.
Don’t scare yourself with that bolt! First time I did it... after shattering my cheap laser socket and then using a ribe bit (which wasn’t deep enough) I managed to wreck my bolt, so drilled it out! It’s actually quite easy, once the cone of the bolt is cracked the thread will just spin out!
Only after getting my timing wrong the first time (Inlet cam out 1 tooth) I then brought the genuine socket and has stood the test of time.. a good few times now!


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[svvg]

Thanks very much - £40 for the tools sounds like a bargain. So VW genuine adjuster bolt socket, and ebay for the cam locking tool? Would you mind recommending which one to go for?

[muff1991]

Thanks very much - £40 for the tools sounds like a bargain. So VW genuine adjuster bolt socket, and ebay for the cam locking tool? Would you mind recommending which one to go for?

100% genuine adjuster bolt socket (can source from TPS - mine was like £7 ish)
eBay for the rest, The listing has changed.. but this is the kinda kit I got: https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F262211307586
:-)


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[svvg]

Thanks! 

[maxamplitude10]

How often should this be changed?

[f00glee]

How often should this be changed?

No official interval or even a recognised sensible time. It's more a case of the chain and tensioner start making a racket over time; at the point it annoys the owner enough - its time to do it.

I'm reliably told they don't tend to break on the mk5, just make a noise. Its the mk6 with a totally different set up which is the main culprit for snapping chains and I reckon a lot of the horror stories of chains snapping on GTIs around 2011/12 onward has back filtered into the mk5 community.

[maxamplitude10]

Ok I'll have a listen to mine then its on 111k at the mo but seems to have been looked after when I changed the HPFP piston it was like brand new:-)

Thanks F00gle

[brian_badonde]

@rich83 I did this job a couple of weeks ago and wanted to say thank you for your excellent DIY - doubt I'd have managed without. Can't believe how much better the engine sounds now, all I can hear is the injectors and fuel pump firing. No more tractor noises at idle any more...

The only comment I have is that I could not rotate the engine from the inlet cam lobe - the T10020 tool just started bending and I didn't want to force anything. In the end I rotated the engine from the main crank pulley accessed through the driver's side wheel well.

The chain itself didn't have any signs of stretch, but I replaced it anyway. The tensioner on the other hand was still intact but definitely on its way out. The top plastic wear plate had a hairline crack running through the middle and the bottom plate was heavily worn from the chain. If you're like me and at ~120,000 miles and it hasn't been done before, I would seriously consider getting it done.

[rich83]

No problem.


Yes thats an error with the guide... the engine needs to be rotated via the crank shaft. 

[hoon98]

Just finished this!! Thanks so much for the guide, it was invaluable in getting the job done and saved a tonne of money!! 

Wasn't without its issues though... First thing that went wrong was when manouvering the coolant lines... a nipple on one of the plastic flanges broke off showering me and the engine bay in coolant!

Secondly despite being careful I managed to strip the Adjuster bolt when trying to undo it... Bit of a nightmare, had to drill it a bit to relieve some of the torque before opening it with a spline hammered in to it...

Got there eventually though! 

[pudding]

You really need someone to push hard on the breaker bar whilst you undo it, or use a decent cordless impact wrench if working solo 

[JordanMR]

Very helpful  thank you! lets try it

[Onethreelee]

Awesome guide I have a feeling I'm going to need this and feel like it's already saved me  well done