Arch install write-up

[VC]

last questions, what about sound deadening? such as dynamat or brown bread

does the fibreglass side of the enclosure vibrate on the bodywork when you've got the bass cranked up?

 

[jimlad09]

hay, great guide mate,

have you changed the interior speakers? from what some of the lads have said im gona hazard a guess at yes.

What speakers? sizes? and if you wanted you could help me decide what to go for on my mini build! lol

Cheers, James

[Hurdy]

last questions, what about sound deadening? such as dynamat or brown bread

does the fibreglass side of the enclosure vibrate on the bodywork when you've got the bass cranked up?

 

Sorry, just spotted this

I have dynamat lining the boot and arch. I haven't noticed it vibrating on the bodywork, mainly because tha back of the build is also flock lined and the arch lining is still in place, so there is plenty of padding even before you get to the dynamat

hay, great guide mate,

have you changed the interior speakers? from what some of the lads have said im gona hazard a guess at yes.

What speakers? sizes? and if you wanted you could help me decide what to go for on my mini build! lol

Cheers, James

All the interior speakers have been swapped out. They are all now Hertz "Hi-energy" range speakers. Components up front and coax's in the rear.

165 3 ways up front and 165 coax in the rear.

[red-snake]

been doing this mod myself
heres the pics

[jedi-knight83]

Boot Build Part 5

Step 9 - Fitting the front baffle to the rear mould.

This is probably the trickiest part of the build.

Tape the front to the rear of the box using masking tape. I found that the best way is to go around the perimiter twice with one strip of tape and then use strips of overlapping tape across the join to reinforce the seal. It needs to be leakproof as if it isn't the resin will find a way through.


It took 2 tins of 500ml resin and several strips of fibre-glass to seal the front to the back and make it air tight. I did this in four stages. as the box has basically four sides. I did the narrowest side first and pushed in a strip of fibreglass and then poured in around half the contents of one tin of resin (mixed with the herdener). The only way to do this is to lift the box and angle it so the resin runs into all the cracks and covers the fibreglass in the process. Lay the box down on the floor with the freshly resinned side to the floor and let it settle and set for around half an hour. Repeat this process for the other four sides until you have a good set seal. Once done. remove the tape, sand down lightly with a medium sanding block and offer up the box into the wheel arch to see if it fits okay. Remove and sand, offer up, remove and sand etc etc etc until it fits like this:-


Step 10 - Fitting the fabric

I managed to find some fabric that was a good match for the OEM fabric already in the boot and also bought some professional spray glue at the same time. I bought it from my local Audio dealer who was happy to give me some extra advice. The fabric I bought stretches in all directions if needed and is perfect for pulling into position. I cut the fabric with the front of the box laid on it and allowed about 150mm of overlap so that the fabric would go around the sides of the box. Once I'd done this I sprayed glue onto the bottom of the box and onto the inner side of the fabric which would overlap the base. I let the solvent in the glue evapourate and then pressed the fabric carefully against the box base.
Next I turned over the box and fabric so that the box front was facing upwards. I sprayed the glue onto the rest of the inner side of the fabric and all around the front and sides of the box.
When the solvent had evapourate i lifted the fabric over the box, stretched it ever so slightly and laid it down over the box. You have to be careful as the glue is contact adhesive and make sure that you lay it down level. Once this was done I pressed and stretche the fabric into the moulded section and worked my way around the edges.

Once the fabric is in place quickly cut holes where the speaker and the cable connector go, leaving around 15mm overlap so that you can fold the fabric into the hole edges.

Fit the connector and feed the cable through and out of the speaker hole and connect up the speaker (ensuring correct polarity!)

Screw the speaker and connector in place.

At this stage I fitted strips of velcro to the back of the sub box and to the wheel arch.

Fit the sub box in place and connect the amp at the connector point

Sit back and enjoy your handy work  O0




I'm sorry about the slight lack of photo's at the end, but I got a little carried away as it was 6pm on Saturday, the wife wanted to go out and The Elsecar mega meet was the following day, so I was a bit rushed!!

Anyway, I hope this write-up helps

Cheers

Hurdy 

just looking back at this.

when you join the mdf and fibre glass together... you tape around the outside.. then do you fibreglass the join inside the enclosure? It bonds to the wood ok?