Hi all and sorry for the haste, not having time to introduce myself.
I recently posted something in a different forum but has no help yet.
I hope for some more attention over here.
Simply copying and editing below:
I bought my Mk5gti two weeks ago and knew about a few issues,
that im looking to fix.
Im naming a few of them here just to see if they may be related to each other.
-Huge boost leak (having it fixed soon as i bought a new DV valve. according to google its likely to have failed as my car used to make a "pssssh" sound when i release the accelerator)
-Cruise control not working (no indicator on dash when i try to turn on, buttons does nothing, the stalk works when using blinkers though)
-Washer fluid always empty warning (its not empty, and never been since i bought it..)
-Windows acting weird If both windows are down, and i push both buttons at the same time (to close them), one window will go up, other will go halfway up and then go back down.
Same issue with mirrors. Both will adjust at the same time when i try to adjust the left mirror.
-Turn signal issue, burnt bulb warning
And for the topic, i have a issue with the turn signal.
I will try to explain what i did.
All blinkers work except front right.
That means, when i turn on right turn signal, the front wont blink but the rest will. (that eliminates suspicion of burnt relay?)
Bulb is not burnt, i tried to put the right bulb to the left side, and left side will blink using right bulb.
New bulb wont even work on right side.
Using voltmeter i measured 11.90v on left side (working)
and 0.50v right side.
I had a few spikes up to 7v and 10v while spamming the "lock" button on my key, but not enough to light the bulb.
I tried to measure using other ground points nearby, but didn't get a higher reading (that eliminates the suspicion of bad ground?)
additional useless info:
of course since my front blinker wont light, the relay is ticking at a faster rate.
Socket is not an issue since i measured behind it directly on the wires.
I need some help troubleshooting.
Update today:
I had my car at a local mechanic running a diagnostic. (they have very expensive and proffesional tools)
They did get lots of fault codes about the car, most of them reset.
Also code for turn light show something like problem with circuit.
Also a code for something wrong with lights, however there isnt anything going on in the headlights as we could see.
there was another electrical code with a number "30" in it.. sorry i cant be more specific i dont remember everything properly.
The mechanic did however mention that the "30" thingy was a electrical issue code and he suggested i looked through EVERY single fuse.
Also, the air condition not working was because of a "high pressure sensor failure"
Also mentioning that i have APR stage 1 on the car.
As i said above, the cruise control wont work so i cant switch program.
The battery have been disconnected for 1-2 hours when i installed my amps, would that result in APR going stock?
Because the mechaning tested my boost after installed the new DV valve and he measured just above 1bar and i dont
know really which program thats running now.
Sorry for being all weird but this is urgent because if im stopped in a technical control on the road, i will get into trouble with a turn signal not working.
