New Flywheel and Clutch, can't get into gear.

[ChazGTI]

Dual Mass Flywheel had been slowly failing until it sounded like it was a box of gravel, so thought it was best to get on and replace it (118k, been stage 1 for last 20k).
Ordered the (I believe stock) LUK DMF as well as a new Clutch and Throw-out Bearing as these couldn't have been far behind. I was right about the clutch(almost no meat left on it), TOB peace of mind either way.
The job was a real pain in the ass when it came to dropping the transmission and also getting it back in there, but everything went smoothly overall. (Had another mechanically minded mate helping me the second half of the job.

Got everything back together, hydraulics power bled, shift cables back on etc and checked gears before starting her up. All gears easy shifted, (with and without clutch pressed, engine off). Same on ignition too. But once engine is started, I can't get into any gears. I can shift into them about 1/3 way, then there's just a massive force stopping it, exactly the same every gear. NO CRUNCHING or any scary sounds though.

I can feel the engine change tone as if it's reaching a bite point when trying to shift? That's the best I can explain it without a video (can get one up).

I have to say that the idle is noisier than it was before and there is a vibration there that wasn't before. (Can get a video of this if needed too.)

If I start in gear (clutch up and also clutch pressed???) she does lurch forward and backwards in the relevant gears.

Now I did the clutch disc alignment by eye, but I've been assured that can't be the issue as the transmission wouldn't have gone back on otherwise (we confirmed the spindle was engaging the flywheel before tightening the transmission up too by manually turning over from the lower pulley on the other side of the engine.)

The DMF only goes on one way and I used thread lock on its bolts and also the pressure plate's bolts. Clutch disc was put in flat side to the flywheel as it should be.

So what I am taking away from this is that the clutch is fully engaged and will not disengage the flywheel enough (or even at all?) to change gears.

I can't find any special way of bleeding the Throw-out Bearing, surely that's the culprit here? Or have I messed up something else?

[xjay1337]

I had that issue once. The clutch supplied was incorrect when assembled the height was wrong so the clutch wouldn't disengage.

[ChazGTI]

I had that issue once. The clutch supplied was incorrect when assembled the height was wrong so the clutch wouldn't disengage.

Thanks for the reply! Well it's definitely the correct gear, same stuff as from factory and visually identical too. Matched down to my engine code (AXX) etc.

[r5gtt]

Sounds like it's not been bled properly.

[ChazGTI]

Sounds like it's not been bled properly.

I've used a gunson's ezibleed from the reservoir down to the bleed valve that connects to the transmission. Done it twice now.
Can't find any special way to bleed the Throw-out Bearing, do you know if there is a special way?

[r5gtt]

Are you pumping the pedal slightly not all the way down but let's say half way whilst the easy bleeder does its job?. Make sure you have the fluid topped up all the way to the rim as I made thay mistake once and lost all hope until my neighbour told me the reservoir is half empty?.

If you want to bleed the release bearing you'll want to submerge the pipe into a bottle of BF ans get someone to pump the pedal slowly and few times untill you see no more bubble from the pipe and then lock the bleed nipple and hopefully get the clutch working again.

[ChazGTI]

Are you pumping the pedal slightly not all the way down but let's say half way whilst the easy bleeder does its job?. Make sure you have the fluid topped up all the way to the rim as I made thay mistake once and lost all hope until my neighbour told me the reservoir is half empty?.

If you want to bleed the release bearing you'll want to submerge the pipe into a bottle of BF ans get someone to pump the pedal slowly and few times untill you see no more bubble from the pipe and then lock the bleed nipple and hopefully get the clutch working again.

OK I'll give that a try tomorrow! Thanks for the tip 

[r5gtt]

Let us know 

time to Zzzz 

[ChazGTI]

Well doing the bearing bleed method only seems to introduce air into the system? We've done it nice and slow, but lots bubbles come out of the line into the brake fluid bottle every press of the pedal. They never stop coming and then once we try closing the system the pedal won't return by itself.
Power bleeding after this brings tons of bubbles out of the system after doing that.
Either way, it hasn't made a difference. I'll try again just to rule it out though.
Don't know what else to try.

[r5gtt]

There's something not right as the bubbles should clear them selves. Can't remember or even know how many reservoirs are there on the gti?. are they combined in to one for both clutch and brake?.

[ChazGTI]

There's something not right as the bubbles should clear them selves. Can't remember or even know how many reservoirs are there on the gti?. are they combined in to one for both clutch and brake?.

Gonna take the bleed block off and inject the throwout bearing manually, then bleed again.  Want to make sure it's not full of air.  Might try a reverse power bleed too.  Yes, brakes and clutch share a reservoir.

[r5gtt]

Have you tried a gravity bleed where you let it rin naturally for a few nitunes making sure you tip up to the brim of the fluid bottle and then tightening the nipple and pumping the clutch pedal a few times and if the pedal doesn't raise itself manually pull it up and try again.

When you replace the master cylinder the procedure is different from just normal bleeding because normally people don't zip tie the line in an upright position and they let it dangle down dripping fluid out and filling the system with air. Or they don't cap the line from the brake fluid reservoir and the fluid level drops below minimum introducing air into the clutch master cylinder. Either way if it's not done correctly and you get air in the clutch, it can be difficult to remove.

[ChazGTI]

Gravity and Vaccum bled it,  no difference. 

Disconnected starter motor to have a look inside and the pressure plate disengages and reengages fine with pedal!?
Really confused now. 
Basically the difference of having the engine running stops the clutch from disengaging. I tightened the pressure plate bolts past the recommended 20nm,  could that be the issue here? I've got the access to loosen them.

I've also read that you're meant to realign the shifter cables whenever you disconnect them,  could this be the case even though i can shift all gears with the engine off?

[GTI-MATT]

Dont undo the clutch bolts that wont make any difference. If your 100% sure the parts are correct and you fitted the friction plate the right way round its got to be down to bleeding. I always gravity bleed it for a minute tighten nipple up pump the pedal 15-20 times then gravity bleed again and pump pedal again then final pressure bleed. Also you cant mix a match the makes of flywheel and clutch in your case they got to be both luk.

[xjay1337]

As I said, I had the exact same issue, and the fingers on the pressure plate were not the correct height, so the clutch would not fully disengage when you pressed the clutch.

Are you sure everything is correct parts wise?
Do you have an LUK Flywheel with a LUK Pressure plate and LUK friction disc? Have you mis-matched parts?
If you have bled it (and you are sure it's done properly) then you have a parts or installation problem.