Dual Mass Flywheel had been slowly failing until it sounded like it was a box of gravel, so thought it was best to get on and replace it (118k, been stage 1 for last 20k).
Ordered the (I believe stock) LUK DMF as well as a new Clutch and Throw-out Bearing as these couldn't have been far behind. I was right about the clutch(almost no meat left on it), TOB peace of mind either way.
The job was a real pain in the ass when it came to dropping the transmission and also getting it back in there, but everything went smoothly overall. (Had another mechanically minded mate helping me the second half of the job.
Got everything back together, hydraulics power bled, shift cables back on etc and checked gears before starting her up. All gears easy shifted, (with and without clutch pressed, engine off). Same on ignition too. But once engine is started, I can't get into any gears. I can shift into them about 1/3 way, then there's just a massive force stopping it, exactly the same every gear. NO CRUNCHING or any scary sounds though.
I can feel the engine change tone as if it's reaching a bite point when trying to shift? That's the best I can explain it without a video (can get one up).
I have to say that the idle is noisier than it was before and there is a vibration there that wasn't before. (Can get a video of this if needed too.)
If I start in gear (clutch up and also clutch pressed???) she does lurch forward and backwards in the relevant gears.
Now I did the clutch disc alignment by eye, but I've been assured that can't be the issue as the transmission wouldn't have gone back on otherwise (we confirmed the spindle was engaging the flywheel before tightening the transmission up too by manually turning over from the lower pulley on the other side of the engine.)
The DMF only goes on one way and I used thread lock on its bolts and also the pressure plate's bolts. Clutch disc was put in flat side to the flywheel as it should be.
So what I am taking away from this is that the clutch is fully engaged and will not disengage the flywheel enough (or even at all?) to change gears.
I can't find any special way of bleeding the Throw-out Bearing, surely that's the culprit here? Or have I messed up something else?