New Flywheel and Clutch, can't get into gear.

[ChazGTI]

Dont undo the clutch bolts that wont make any difference. If your 100% sure the parts are correct and you fitted the friction plate the right way round its got to be down to bleeding. I always gravity bleed it for a minute tighten nipple up pump the pedal 15-20 times then gravity bleed again and pump pedal again then final pressure bleed. Also you cant mix a match the makes of flywheel and clutch in your case they got to be both luk.

Yeah i can't find anything about overtightened bolts having an effect, you must be right.
100% sure parts are correct,  all LUK and disc flat side against flywheel. 
I did re-aligne the shift cables,  which did actually make my shifts a little bit smoother,  of course that's all though.

I guess I'll have a mega session of bleeding tomorrow then!

[ChazGTI]

As I said, I had the exact same issue, and the fingers on the pressure plate were not the correct height, so the clutch would not fully disengage when you pressed the clutch.

Are you sure everything is correct parts wise?
Do you have an LUK Flywheel with a LUK Pressure plate and LUK friction disc? Have you mis-matched parts?
If you have bled it (and you are sure it's done properly) then you have a parts or installation problem.

100% LUK,  stamped on every piece.  Checked very thoroughly and really took my time to get installation correct. Gonna have one more big go at bleeding, then if still nothing I'll either drop the transmission again or tow it to a garage.

[xjay1337]

Good luck man. Hope the bleed sorts it.

[ChazGTI]

Well I had two big bleeding sessions. Gravity bled, then pumped pedal 20 times, power bled. Then waited half an hour and repeated.
No change whatsoever.

Guess I'm gonna have to drop the transmission again, not sure what to actually look for though.

I'll triple check that the disc is the correct way around and that everything is still tightened to spec. What else can I check?
Slowly losing my mind with this now ugggh.

[ChazGTI]

Just thought I'd add some extra info in case it gives anyone an idea before I do the whole thing again.
With the engine running, if I try to select any gear without clutch up there is massive resistance (never actually tried doing that without a clutch, so I guess that's normal? Or wouldn't it start to crunch?) And trying to shift feels exactly the same no matter how far I push the clutch pedal down thereafter. So it feels like there is literally 0 difference across the entire pedal travel.

I've had the starter off and someone to push the clutch down and back up and I can physically see it working.
I would say the pressure plate moves on its dowels about 5-10mm?
Surely it doesn't need to move further than that to disengage?
Or should the pressure plate be totally static and only move within the forks? (Meaning I possibly haven't tightened the PP bolts up properly and what I'm seeing shouldn't actually be happening?)

[xjay1337]

You overtightning the bolts wouldn't cause the issue.

I do strongly suspect the clutch kit is incorrect or fitted incorrectly.

[r5gtt]

I'm sure you cannot physically put the clutch plate on the opposite way round as it wouldn't go on.

[ChazGTI]

I'm sure you cannot physically put the clutch plate on the opposite way round as it wouldn't go on.

Yeah I tested that with the old parts and it certainly is physically impossible to do that.

Today I'm going to unbolt the pressure plate through the starter hole, try and check that the disc is on the spline properly and then re-bolt, but this time to the torque spec.

[Dan_FR]

Just thought I'd add some extra info in case it gives anyone an idea before I do the whole thing again.
With the engine running, if I try to select any gear without clutch up there is massive resistance (never actually tried doing that without a clutch, so I guess that's normal? Or wouldn't it start to crunch?) And trying to shift feels exactly the same no matter how far I push the clutch pedal down thereafter. So it feels like there is literally 0 difference across the entire pedal travel.

I've had the starter off and someone to push the clutch down and back up and I can physically see it working.
I would say the pressure plate moves on its dowels about 5-10mm?
Surely it doesn't need to move further than that to disengage?
Or should the pressure plate be totally static and only move within the forks? (Meaning I possibly haven't tightened the PP bolts up properly and what I'm seeing shouldn't actually be happening?)

The dowels are there to locate the clutch pressure plate, the pressure plate should not move up and down on the dowels if you have bolted the cover up correctly.

[xjay1337]

I'm sure you cannot physically put the clutch plate on the opposite way round as it wouldn't go on.

Depends on the clutch kit

Dansmith had it on his. Wouldn't go into first or reverse properly.

[ChazGTI]

Just thought I'd add some extra info in case it gives anyone an idea before I do the whole thing again.
With the engine running, if I try to select any gear without clutch up there is massive resistance (never actually tried doing that without a clutch, so I guess that's normal? Or wouldn't it start to crunch?) And trying to shift feels exactly the same no matter how far I push the clutch pedal down thereafter. So it feels like there is literally 0 difference across the entire pedal travel.

I've had the starter off and someone to push the clutch down and back up and I can physically see it working.
I would say the pressure plate moves on its dowels about 5-10mm?
Surely it doesn't need to move further than that to disengage?
Or should the pressure plate be totally static and only move within the forks? (Meaning I possibly haven't tightened the PP bolts up properly and what I'm seeing shouldn't actually be happening?)

The dowels are there to locate the clutch pressure plate, the pressure plate should not move up and down on the dowels if you have bolted the cover up correctly.

Right ok, so its likely that I've actually under-tightened the bolts?

[r5gtt]

I'm sure you cannot physically put the clutch plate on the opposite way round as it wouldn't go on.

Yeah I tested that with the old parts and it certainly is physically impossible to do that.

Today I'm going to unbolt the pressure plate through the starter hole, try and check that the disc is on the spline properly and then re-bolt, but this time to the torque spec.

I've never on my miserable life torqued up clutch place bolts so please no one shoot  me done for this as ive never ever ever had any issues and been working on cars for I've 20 years. I've also never seen anyone do the same even at dealerships 

I don't know how you'll see the disc on the spline without removing the box itself but I don't know, is there a way 

I'm sure you cannot physically put the clutch plate on the opposite way round as it wouldn't go on.

Depends on the clutch kit

Dansmith had it on his. Wouldn't go into first or reverse properly.

really xjay never seen this in my etire life and I've seen many performance clutches so he must have forced it on

[Dan_FR]

Just thought I'd add some extra info in case it gives anyone an idea before I do the whole thing again.
With the engine running, if I try to select any gear without clutch up there is massive resistance (never actually tried doing that without a clutch, so I guess that's normal? Or wouldn't it start to crunch?) And trying to shift feels exactly the same no matter how far I push the clutch pedal down thereafter. So it feels like there is literally 0 difference across the entire pedal travel.

I've had the starter off and someone to push the clutch down and back up and I can physically see it working.
I would say the pressure plate moves on its dowels about 5-10mm?
Surely it doesn't need to move further than that to disengage?
Or should the pressure plate be totally static and only move within the forks? (Meaning I possibly haven't tightened the PP bolts up properly and what I'm seeing shouldn't actually be happening?)

The dowels are there to locate the clutch pressure plate, the pressure plate should not move up and down on the dowels if you have bolted the cover up correctly.

Right ok, so its likely that I've actually under-tightened the bolts?

If the clutch pressure plate is moving up and down on the dowels in the flywheel, then yes the bolts are loose. It should not move from the flywheel at all once bolted up. All the movement/release of clutch is done in the 'middle bit '.

[ChazGTI]

Well as @Dan_FR had pointed out, I had under-tightened the PP bolts. Just finished slowly tightening them through the starter hole while a friend rotate the crank.

Tested the clutch and now the PP stays still like it should. Gonna put everything back together and HOPEFULLY all will be good.

[Dan_FR]

Keep us posted