Locking Wheel Nut Trouble

[DanED30GTI]

Hi all,

Got an issue with the Eddy I need sorting asap. I need two new tyres but the locking wheel nut has been chewed. VW will them off for 27 pound with the master key, only problem is they want 75 quid for a new set of locking wheel nuts! Since this is the second set that has chewed Im a bit hesitant to pay that much for something that will no doubt chew up in the future!

Would something like these be ok?

http://www.halfords.com/motoring/car-accessories/locking-wheel-nuts/ripspeed-locking-wheel-nuts-bc1181 

Anyone put none VW lockers on their car? any issues arise? Is this a case of genuine over aftermarket or will anything do?

Cheers!

[rich83]

They will be fine. Or Mcgards.

[lukemk5gti]

They look grand.

If this is the second time it happened then you or whoever is removing them is doing it wrong.

Firstly, never use an impact gun on your locknut.
Secondly, if you remove your wheel, wire brush the lock nuts clean and apply copper grease to the threads before refitting.

[Dan_FR]

Don't use copper grease on the threads! Just clean them and torque them up by hand to the correct rating!

[lukemk5gti]

Don't use copper grease on the threads! Just clean them and torque them up by hand to the correct rating!

Why?

[DanED30GTI]

Yeah, I've put it down to my local handyman.... cheap as he may be, this is the last straw!

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

[Dan_FR]

Because using copper slip can lead to over tightening and damaging of the threads, stretching etc. The torque figure quoted is not for wheel bolts covered in a helping of anti-seize compound

In the same sentence you also should not apply any cooper slip to the mating surface of the wheel etc. either

[rich83]

I use aluminium anti seize on the mating surfaces between the discs and hubs. Its a lot cleaner than copper slip

[Dan_FR]

Anti-seize between the disc and hub is a lot different to it being between the disc and wheel, which relies on friction to hold it on/in place

[lukemk5gti]

Because using copper slip can lead to over tightening and damaging of the threads, stretching etc. The torque figure quoted is not for wheel bolts covered in a helping of anti-seize compound

In the same sentence you also should not apply any cooper slip to the mating surface of the wheel etc. either

Ah yes, bringing me back to college days! Generally best engineering practice is to apply copper grease to bolts before installation. For this reason I had assumed VW had calculated this in when quoting their torquing specification.

The copper grease will reduce friction during tightening so yes in theory torquing to 120NM could be as high as 150NM.

[r5gtt]

The locking nut usually gets buggered when some clown uses an air gun to do and undo them. 120 for the locking nut is seriously tight imho I just nip it up and torque the rest down. just saying 

[rich83]

Anti-seize between the disc and hub is a lot different to it being between the disc and wheel, which relies on friction to hold it on/in place

Well its all located on the hub spigot anyway, so I cant see it making too much difference even if you did put a bit of anti sieze on it.

[Dan_FR]

The spigot plays no part in the load bearing of the wheel. The wheel is held in place through friction of the mating surfaces, which is why torqueing the wheel bolts up correctly is crucial, as is a clean mating surface not covered in copper slip or anything else that will decrease friction

[Dan_FR]

If the spigot was load bearing, you wouldn't be fitting these things to aftermarket alloy wheels  :

[rich83]

The spigot plays no part in the load bearing of the wheel. The wheel is held in place through friction of the mating surfaces, which is why torqueing the wheel bolts up correctly is crucial

Shave off your spigot and do your wheel bolts up and see how well that goes for you.