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Removing pot rivets
VC:
anyone done this?
am i right in guessing that a nice sharp metal drill bit is the best method? then replace with a nut, bolt and a washer?
or is this a cut out and weld kind of thing? which is my least wanted option as there's not alot of metal in the area to lose :happy2:
QD MBE:
Get a brand spanking drill bit, and make sure it is the same size as the diameter of the original non-formed pop rivet.
Start slow with the drill, and that way you should not get it turning in the hole. If you do get behind and clamp the tail with a pair of pliers or mole-grips.
The sharper the drill bit the better.
Are they steel or aluminium?
VC:
ive just realised what area i've posted this in (sorry mods, feel free to move it to the how to guides area :ashamed: )
--- Quote from: stokeballoon on January 19, 2010, 05:57:05 pm ---Get a brand spanking drill bit, and make sure it is the same size as the diameter of the original non-formed pop rivet.
Start slow with the drill, and that way you should not get it turning in the hole. If you do get behind and clamp the tail with a pair of pliers or mole-grips.
The sharper the drill bit the better.
Are they steel or aluminium?
--- End quote ---
hard to tell as they are dull and tarnished but not rusted, so aluminum?
its the turning that was concerning me which why i initially thought about going bigger than the rivet but theres not enough metal to afford this, i was also told to use a blunt bit rather than a sharp one which didnt seem right to me either but apparently it stops twisting too
you saying sharp sounds better though, would you pilot it first with a smaller bit or just go straight for a matching size? (as in the size of the rivet not the squashed end)
then i guess its a case of just knocking the tails out?
QD MBE:
--- Quote from: Very Cherry on January 19, 2010, 06:02:40 pm ---ive just realised what area i've posted this in (sorry mods, feel free to move it to the how to guides area :ashamed: )
--- Quote from: stokeballoon on January 19, 2010, 05:57:05 pm ---Get a brand spanking drill bit, and make sure it is the same size as the diameter of the original non-formed pop rivet.
Start slow with the drill, and that way you should not get it turning in the hole. If you do get behind and clamp the tail with a pair of pliers or mole-grips.
The sharper the drill bit the better.
Are they steel or aluminium?
--- End quote ---
hard to tell as they are dull and tarnished but not rusted, so aluminum?
its the turning that was concerning me which why i initially thought about going bigger than the rivet but theres not enough metal to afford this, i was also told to use a blunt bit rather than a sharp one which didnt seem right to me either but apparently it stops twisting too
you saying sharp sounds better though, would you pilot it first with a smaller bit or just go straight for a matching size? (as in the size of the rivet not the squashed end)
then i guess its a case of just knocking the tails out?
--- End quote ---
Could well be ali. The thought behind a blunt drill is that it won't grip well initally. I have always found if you grip the rear, and start off slowly with a sharp drill but light pressure all should be ok. Then if the tails don't drop out, just tap them out. Get a drill the same diameter as the rivet, or you may cause damage.
:happy2:
The key is to take your time and not to push too hard. (Fnarr Fnarr :rolleye:)
VC:
nice one dude, will give it a try :happy2:
the roof on my defender is rivetted in places so i cant take the roof off to fit the new side panels with windows, its such a tiny lip that if it bends or rips i wont get another go at it and i'll have fubar'd it to the point of welding being the only way to repair. not any room for error
plan is to remove the rivets, change the roof and sides and then use bolts and washers (to load spread) then put everything back together..got to love landys for this
very helpful advice mate thankyou :drinking:
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