Snapped subframe walk 16mm bolt. What to do?

[K9]

Changed to a walk kit and one off the 16mm stretch bolts snapped when trying to remove them.

What should i do now? one side walk is now secured with the lonk end bolt and one 16mm bolt to the subframe.

anyone else been in this situation before?

[rich83]

Is I snapped one and had to drive it for about 50 miles :-S

[K9]

Is I snapped one and had to drive it for about 50 miles :-S

i have been driving for like 3 weeks and ni problems. but it's bugging me

[Paradox1]

Is I snapped one and had to drive it for about 50 miles :-S

i have been driving for like 3 weeks and ni problems. but it's bugging me

Id complain to whoever supplied the kit.
Think they will need drilling out tbh

[K9]

Is I snapped one and had to drive it for about 50 miles :-S

i have been driving for like 3 weeks and ni problems. but it's bugging me

Id complain to whoever supplied the kit.
Think they will need drilling out tbh

It's the oem vw bolt that snapped when trying to remove it

Skickat från min SM-G935F via Tapatalk

[ROH ECHT]

Did it snap in a way you cannot grip it with vise grips to remove the broken bit? You did install the W.A.L.K. with new bolts at all other locations, yes?

You likely need to use an easy-out/bolt extractor to remove the broken bolt if unable to get at it if not protruding outside the subframe. Means drilling a hole in the broken bolt...but first need to make a centered dimple in the end that's broken with a small grinding bit before the final drill bit is used...for being easier.

[Stupots]

When doing my anti lift bushes (I just used TT ones) 4 of the bolts came out fine, one bolt wouldn't come out and the other took about an hour of lubing, undo 1/2 turn, do up 1/4... spray lube... rinse repeat. If you've broken one off you could try buying an Alum bar off of eBay, it dissolves the steel bolt, but not the aluminium. Chances are it's just a few broken threads locking it solid. I know you have broken it, but this will help loosen it up, they are rather tough to simply drill out or use an easy out on. You should be able to see the top of the bolts coming through the sub-frame when looking through the wheel arch, so would be able to apply (and maybe some mild heat) to the end of the bolt and let gravity do it's thing. Don't let it get on the other bolts though, or take them out first!

This vid gives you the rough idea, but it will dissolve a drill bit without touching Aluminium, so it's quite strong stuff :)

Cheers and good luck

Stu

[grey golfster]

Is that an Alum bar, like those used for shaving?
Is that what he's rubbing on to a heated seized bolt?

[Juliand]

That was an interesting vid. Shows patience is the key - no bull at a gate there... Like everything - if you have the right kit

[Stupots]

Is that an Alum bar, like those used for shaving?
Is that what he's rubbing on to a heated seized bolt?

Yep, one in the same :)

[K9]

i guess i will have to drill it out  there is a small head still sticking out like 1cm from the subframe where it snapped.

[dazza]

Opening up an old thread

Went to change the front control arm bushings and one of the stretch bolts snapped on removal.



Vice grips slip off.

Welded a nut on and put the impact gun (electric) on it which did nothing

In the end it snapped again

I could weld a larger nut and really fill it with weld or drill out?

Drilling out would be a pita under the car i suppose i could remove the subframe?

[pudding]

Which one sheered?  The yellow arrow one or the red arrow?

The red one is bad news if it means replacing the captive nut in the chassis rail.

If the yellow ones...... I would just get new subframe parts from ebay personally, and run a tap through the threads before fitment, and use anti-seize grease on the new bolts.  I think I paid £50 for the whole lot when my dogbone mount bolt did the same thing.  I couldn't be bothered with welding/drilling/swearing/shouting.

[brian_badonde]

Came here to say what Kev said don't even bother trying to drill them, new console section can be had for 25 quid from the breakers.

I sheared mine when I installed my superpro kit. It happens because the tips of the bolts galvanically corrode and seize up on their way back out through the console. You can try corrosion inhibitor on the new bolts for future disassembly but it won't help much as it's chemical reaction. Only sure fire way to avoid it is to wire brush the tips before you remove them.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

[pudding]

VAG used to use coated bolts in the good old days when they were diligent about car assembly, but I haven't seen those used since the MK4.  Dealers also used to sell the best anti-seize compound known to man, which was called 'hot bolt paste'.  Can't get either anymore.

I've been using the silver coloured anti-seize grease for years on the MK5 and the chassis/brake/wheel bolts all just plop off with ease