DV - confused if I need a diaphragm or Piston model

[Chris_R]

Since picking up my car and now getting familiar with it a little more, I think the boost is dropping off quite a bit at the top end, really seems a little breathless under acceleration when you go north of 5-6k.
Done a VCDS scan and found a fault reoccurring of Boost Pressure Control Valve - Mechanical Malfunction - from looking around it appears to be related, but I am unsure which DV I should be fitting to my car. I cleared the code and then just revved it a little on the drive and it popped back up again with the code in VCDS, so appears to be persistent.
56 Plate GTI - manual.
There appears to be two different parts on Awesome-GTI one recommended for a standard car, the other for upgraded tune:
https://www.awesomegti.com/shop-by-car/audi/a3-8p/oem-2-0t-diaphragm-type-diverter-valve-06f-145-710g/
https://www.awesomegti.com/shop-by-car/audi/a3-8p/oem-1-8t-2-0t-2-5t-piston-diverter-valve-06h-145-710d/

As I am likely to go for a remap once I have the basics sorted out - probably within 6 months, is there any issue with fitting the piston (assuming it is actually any better) mode?

[sanj]

Go for the revision G which still be good even after a tune, the revision D still has tendency to lose boost or even still go for s DV+

https://www.awesomegti.com/shop-by-brand/gfb/gfb-dv-for-vag-20fsi-turbo-engines

[6waysforward]

Another vote for DV+ from me.

[Chris_R]

DV+ - looks like I need a working DV in the first place to go with it though? Will visit that come remap time I think.

Thanks for the help guys, will get on it :)

[bonelorry]

To be on the safe side I purchased a brand new Revision G Diverter Valve just for its Solenoid and then fitted a new GFB-DV+ with the new Solenoid.

I could have retained my Revision D Solenoid but I figured it was 5 Years old so for the sake of £40 I know its all done, Made good figures yesterday on the RR after Stage 1 with it fitted 

[Chris_R]

To be on the safe side I purchased a brand new Revision G Diverter Valve just for its Solenoid and then fitted a new GFB-DV+ with the new Solenoid.

I could have retained my Revision D Solenoid but I figured it was 5 Years old so for the sake of £40 I know its all done, Made good figures yesterday on the RR after Stage 1 with it fitted 

Nice, I have just ordered the G from Awesome GTI, hopefully be here for next weekend so that I can fit it. Car is in for cambelt/waterpump and thermostat change on Thursday as it's something a little beyond me I think. Just want piece of mind, the service history says it was replaced at 85,000 (now on 131,000) so well beyond doing.

The history is a bit all over the place, I am not used to a longlife type service and seems off to me.
1st at 13000 - 2008 - LL oil used
- I would expect at least one more service between these
2nd at 62000 - 2011 - normal oil
3rd at 85000 - 2012 - LL oil. Cambelt, sparks, air filter
4th at 103000 - 2013 - LL oil, fuel filter

then there is nothing recorded. 27k and 4 years and doubtful the oil has been changed in that time, at least not that I have proof of.
We will sort all that out at the weekend. Going to be a busy day as got the DV to do, cam follower and oil change. Considering dropping the sump to check the oil pickup, but I have a habit of finding rounded off bolt heads when I embark on these things, and I need the car this time of year for work.

[grey golfster]

With a service history like that, IMO, you'd be wise to open the sump for inspection/clean.

[ducman77]

With a service history like that, IMO, you'd be wise to open the sump for inspection/clean.

100% what he said. Very long intervals between oil changes gives a higher chance of the oil pick up becoming blocked in the sump. The oil pickup is a little sive type thing in the sump which the oil has to pass through before getting to the engine. It's a very cheap part to replace and garage shouldn't charge you too much to drop and refit the sump. Maybe 2-2.5hrs labour. Good luck with it 

[Chris_R]

Had a look at the sump,  seems perfectly doable and the bolts have both a bit and socket so shouldn't be rounded out.

Any recommendations for the liquid gasket?  I have Hylomar blue and Hondabond HT in the garage.

[pudding]

Had a look at the sump,  seems perfectly doable and the bolts have both a bit and socket so shouldn't be rounded out.

Any recommendations for the liquid gasket?  I have Hylomar blue and Hondabond HT in the garage.

Nah, you need the VW stuff, or Dirko from ebay or Amazon.  Hondabond might do the trick though as it's good stuff.

The sump is easy apart from the 3 bolts at the bell housing end.  A long 5mm ball ended allen key required there.

[Chris_R]

Cheers Pudding.  I have a good set of allens so will give it a look at the weekend. May as well as all the other stuff.  Oil and filter should be here tomorrow along with dump plug and washers with the DV.  Going to be a busy day.
Honda HT matches the specs and description of the Vw stuff by the looks of it.  Same temp range,  probably the same stuff with different branding

[The Red Warrior]

Just did my oil pick up pipe a few days ago.
If your doing all that other stuff too, I recommend draining your oil then removing your sump and the pick up pipe,then do everything else you want to do. This will give you as long as possible for the remaining oil to drip from engine before you need to clean it before putting the sump back on.
By far the most time consuming part of the job is cleaning off ALL the old sealant from the engine block. Make sure it is as clean and dry as you can get it before putting the sump back on. I used brake clean aerosol spray just before installing sump.
I didn't replace the pick up pipe, just cleaned it with petrol and air compressor. Not difficult to get it perfectly clean.
Another heads up: I used mick's garage and pelican parts guides for reference and both said the turbo output pipe is connected with torx 25 bolts, but mine were torx 30. Also, neither mentioned undoing the 1 torx 30 bolt at front of sump that connects the throttle pipe to the sump.