GuideTools Required;Torx 15, 20, 25, 30.
Sockets variety
Wrench for said torx
Extension bars for the wrench
Panel tools,
watering can/bucket + towel,
Needlenose pliers
boltcutters or other way to cut rubber hose
Optional;
Cleaning supplies
Rust remover
Black Paint
Divided box to keep nuts etc in.
This is pretty much a lego guide with the aid of the ETKA drawing
Steps1. Firstly you'll want to remove the bumper, headlights, Intake, battery and battery box this is to give you lots of space and visibility for wiring and removal of parts. You'll find many guides and videos for this bumper held on by 3 torx in the wheel arches, and a few underneath that are visible to see if you don't have a black car.
2. I started this from the plumbing end as it seemed easier. Firstly I started undoing the 4 10mm nuts holding the washer reservoir in place two behind the tank, one in front and one up where you fill it.
3. I disconnected the blue pipe running into the pump and the wiring connected to the reservoir and unwrap the connections from the wrapped wiring and piping to the old tank.
4. Maneuverer the neck of the tank (where you fill it) down out of the headlight area, if you have a basin/bucket or towel place below now, and pull out the pump from the tank/reservoir (you could unclip it, but for me it wasn’t visible). Collect your washer fluid as you can reuse this later.
5. You can now build up your new tank out of the car if you choose for me it was easier to, this consists of taking your pump and pump gasket from your old tank and putting it on the right hand empty space of the new, inserting the new (or old) water level switch (7M0 919 382) and sealing washer (7M0 919 382) into the middle space and your new pump (1K6 955 651), Gasket (431 955 465 A) with your adapter for cars with stationary heater ( 1T0 955 655) this is connected to your connecting piece ( 1J0 955 975)
This picture is before i realised my mistake that pump should go on the left and the old pump on the right.
6. Place in your new 5.5 Litre tank, and do up the nut at the neck of the tank and at the front. You’ll now need your extension tool to do up the two behind the tank as you will no longer be able to move your tools behind it due to the increase in size.
7. I chose to go and remove my existing bumper mouldings at this point to allow me to get a better judgement for the cutting of the hose later on. Be prepared this is going to be the worst trim removal you’ll experience.
I found the best way was to unclip the mouldings at either end first (Left two clips then right two clips) this allows you to remove the middle clips far easier as it becomes a simple push the clips. After the first one the second one does feel easier.
8. Take your Jet carriers with jets ( 1k6 955 103 + 1k6 955 104), Pressure cylinders (1k5 955 978) speed nuts (N 909 591 01) and two connecting pieces ( 1J0 955 655 E).
Place the speed nut bracket onto the bumper with the flat on the flat of the bumper, you can then clip your pressure cylinder into place below onto the bumper (picture shows it better) and then screw it together and your finished result will look like this;
9. I then set about the wiring I removed the glovebox and underneath it just to give myself space as I’ve never put anything through the firewall.
The entrance to the interior in in at the back it’s hard to show on camera.
So you cut off one of the nipples where the wire goes, then attach the loop of the longest wire to the coat hang and thread it through. Then tidy up the engine bay end so it all looks tidy by using the tidies in and around the bay.
You'll then need to take the wiring across to the drivers side, I took out the little cubby drawer to the right of the steering wheel and underneath around the OBD port to make it easier for myself (except for the earth, just place it to a good grounding point). You should be able to get the wire that goes to the relay over but i extended mine anyway (soldered and heat shrank), then be prepared for a lot of swearing as you try to get the pins to go into their holes, Pin 34 of the instrument cluster and the fusebox were the hardest for me and probably took me about 5-10 minutes.
For the instrument cluster pull the plastic on the leather cowl that connects the dash to the steering column, undo two screws (highly recommend a magnetic torx piece here) and then gentle push your clocks out, set them aside slide the connector to the left to free it, then take it out of it's housing with its 4 clips. The front of the connector it's number 36 being bottom right so go into 3 it will be empty, plug it in and cable tie it to the loom.
Now connect the two harnesses with the thick spade going into the back of the relay, and then place the thin pin from the relay into Box D pin 8 of the CECM as shown, you'll need to slide the red pin to inward to unclip the harness and then open up the plug but pull out the purple clip with a screwdriver;
Then place the socket into one of the empty slots above the CECM (facing you when you removed the cubby drawer) and then plug your relay fuse in.
Now split your fusebox there's 3 or 4 clips, find fuse 36 and insert your fuse spade from the relay in and add a 20 amp fuse.
Now you can put the dash back together again as you're finished with the interior.
Now it’s just a matter of creating your plumbing for them pretty self explanatory and fits just like the ETKA diagram, unfortunately I forgot to take pictures when i did mine.
But I did it when the bumper was off the car and worked from far side over, you can use clamps to make sure it’s full waterproofed on the washers but it’s unnecessary for all it gets used.
Then put the bumper back on and now you’ve just coding to do.
In VCDs go into 09 - Central Electrics and then long coding and then i think it’s in byte 4 you find the headlight washer box tick it fit esc and then Do It! And it is coded in.
Scan for faults in central electrics an if you’ve no faults happy days.
If not here’s some troubleshooting;
Check the CECM wire is fully plugged in through unclipping the plug and opening the purple clip and then pushing it in with a small screwdriver.
Check your earthing
Check your fuse box wire is fully inserted by opening the back of the box and pushing the clip out and pushing the purple box down after you’ve take a picture of your fuses and removed all the fuses.
Check your fuse it should be 20 amp
Check your Instrument cluster wire was fully inserted.
Check that the plugs are fully clipped into the pumps (can access via fog light opening when put back together)
Check your two harnesses are connected properly by the spade into the back of the relay.
