Parts needed to install a LSD on a DSG

[Shoduchi]

Hi all! Just ordered a MFactory LSD for my DSG. From what I read it's very similar to Quaife's ATB LSD but with forged steel instead of machined steel. I could also order one for ~£70 cheaper than what TSR Performance offered as their best price for the Quaife.

MFactory official site: http://store.teammfactory.com/golf-02e-gti-tdi-mk5-dsg-20t-helical-lsd-includes-ring-gear-bolts/ or http://store.teammfactory.com/golf-02e-gti-tdi-mk6-dsg-25t-helical-lsd-includes-ring-gear-bolts/

My DSG from my MY2008 Ed. 30 has the code KNB and it has a 25 teeth handbrake ring, so it's like the mk6 DSG.

Well, now I need to source all the rest of the parts needed for the installation. From my search online this is what I found so far:
DSG service parts:
-DSG filter: 02E305051C x1
-Filter's o-ring: N91084501 x1
-DSG oil: G052182A2   x8L

DSG cooler upgrade:
-DSG cooler with 18 lines: 02E409061C x1
-O-ring: N91027901 x2
-DSG cooler bolt: N90986102 x3

LSD fitting parts:
-Diff shaft seal kit: 02T409189K x1
-Gasket: 02E301580C x1 -> not sold by VW so it's DSG.GAS04 from Automatic Choice
-Shaft seal (right): 02T409189K x1
-Shaft seal (left): 02M301189G x1
-O-ring (15x2.5): N91027901 x1
-Shift rod oil seal (24.3x6.4): 02A301227M x1
-Cover: 02E301205C x1
-Seal ring: 02E323557B x1
-O-ring (27x3.2): WHT001403 x2
-Pan gasket: 02E321371E x1
-Pump to case gasket: 02E321385A x1
-Drain plug seal (24x29): N0438092 x1
-Sealing grease for radial shaft oil seal (50 g): G052128A1 x1
-DSG shim set: 02E398321 x1
-Round head screw: N10554002 x10

Where I'm still not sure what parts I need are the DSG diff bearings. I could only check one side of the diff bearings in ETKA: 002517185M. Do I need 2 of these?

Hope this is helpful for others and hope someone can shed some light in my doubt and can confirm this parts list.

Edit:
The diff bearings needed are:
-VW 002517185M or SKF LM 503349/310
-SKF LM 102949/910

[Shoduchi]

@vRSAlex can you help me?

[pudding]

What about a set of ARP (or equivalent) crown wheel bolts?   

I remember when I had a Quaife years ago, the crown wheel needs separating form the stock diff and refitting to the LSD.  Have to drill out the rivets.  The bolt kit was extra, ~ £100.

I eagerly await your review 

[Shoduchi]

What about a set of ARP (or equivalent) crown wheel bolts?   

I remember when I had a Quaife years ago, the crown wheel needs separating form the stock diff and refitting to the LSD.  Have to drill out the rivets.  The bolt kit was extra, ~ £100.

I eagerly await your review 

The bolt kit is included with the LSD. This is what I found online from a US MFactory official dealer:

"The bolts are our own custom-made 12.9 bolts as we have threaded our LSD to accept them (it is not simply a bolt + nut like everyone else)."

I'm eager to get the LSD fitted too.

[Shoduchi]

More info on the MFactory LSD for anyone interested: http://www.golfmk6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=85526.

[pudding]

Ah that's good then.  Some LSDs don't come with bolts (Quaife).  Peloquins supply them, not sure about Wavetrac.

No-Load/One-Wheel Syndrome
A common misconception is that a Torsen-Style Differential is useless under a no-load situation (e.g One wheel in the air). This myth has been further perpetuated by our competitors of whom have limited understanding of how a Torsen-Style LSD functions. This no-load situation does not apply to 90% of users. For the other 10%, there is a simple solution to the problem that our competitors will not tell you; simply tap your brake pedal.

That isn't a myth.  I had no-load situations more times than I can remember with my Quaife, and that was on the road and not pushing the car that hard.  There's usually around a minimum 5-10% preload bias the opposite axle needs to see, otherwise it will spin the unloaded axle.....just like an open diff.   Very true about the brakes though, which is why an LSD in combination with the ABS traction control is a good thing.  Shame the latter only works up to 25mph.  Handy for getting you moving on snow/ice though.

All MFactory components are Forged. We do not use inferior Cast or Billet processes. Forged components are upto 30% stronger & tougher than the equivalent "Billet" component. Click here for further details

Hmmmm, you can take that with a pinch of salt.  Sales pitchy speak.  FWIW, my Quaife lasted well over 80K miles daily use before I sold the car, and it's made with inferior materials

Apart from the usual sales chatter, it looks good 

[Shoduchi]

A track day friend and dyno tester gave me bad feedback about Quaife LSD. Told me that he knew a few cases needing repair. Being more expensive didn't help its case either.

Forged over milled steel sounds good. I can only find good feedback on American forums about this LSD so that pretty much made me go for it.

[pudding]

Yeah it is expensive for sure.  They are long established in the business though and I've not personally heard of any failures.  I punished mine with VR6 Turbo torque (a lot more than tuned TFSIs kick out) for 6 years with no issues 

Anyway, an LSD is better than no LSD, so you'll have some fun 

[Shoduchi]

Well, to finish this topic I wanted to share my knowledge now that my DSG is opened.

The differencial bearing 002517185M, which is the same as the manual gearbox has, corresponds to SKF part number: LM 503349/310 or BT1-1767/QCL7CVA607 (45.987x74.976x18.000).

The other differencial bearing that I couldn't see the part number on ETKA has the following part numbers: SKF LM 102949/910 or BT1-0251/QVA621 (45.242x73.431x19.558).

[spb]

How difficult do you rate the operation to be? Does mfactory provide any instructions?

[Shoduchi]

Fitting the LSD is basically the same as a manual car. The difficult part is to open and close the DSG correctly. I'd say it's difficult because I'm no mechanic.

[rich83]

How difficult do you rate the operation to be? Does mfactory provide any instructions?

Ball ache. You have to drill the rivets out.

[pudding]

And in my experience, not worth the cost.  Yeah you get a little more traction out of corners but nothing that blows your skirt up.

High power/torque needs 4WD. Period.

If you really must get a FWD diff, I would also fit the equal length driveshafts from the BKD diesel engine. 

Having a long and a short shaft with an LSD creates havoc on bumpy country roads under hard load, especially with cambered roads and lowered suspension where bump steer also creates it's own mess.  And the car doesn't want to turn-in as keenly with a diff either. And the diff can actually increase understeer unless you apply throttle in the corners to engage it, or trail brake.

But these drawbacks are what no one ever tells you.  It's all sales, sales, marketing, hype and exaggerated benefits.

The Haldex FWD diff in the Clubsport S is way better than a torsen diff, but not the easiest thing to integrate into a MK5 ecosystem.

Realistically, you're in for 2.5-3K to fit a diff if you factor in a 'whilst you're in there Helix clutch' and a bearing/syncro refresh, with labour.  Just the 1st to 2nd syncro hub is £200ish on its own. You could buy and fit an S3 4WD setup for that, or less.  And even then the Gen4 Haldex isn't all that   

The Haldex on the MK7 is waaaaaaay more responsive/proactive, and the newer system on the MK8 (can't remember the brand) is even better still.

So in other words, don't sink big dollar into mods that only offer minimal gains 

It's actually faster point to point, to run less boost and leave the rest of the car alone. And cheaper 

[Shoduchi]

How difficult do you rate the operation to be? Does mfactory provide any instructions?

Ball ache. You have to drill the rivets out.

My stock differential was sent to a CNC shop. They also fitted the new LSD with the provided screws and it looked just like stock in the end.

[Shoduchi]

And in my experience, not worth the cost.  Yeah you get a little more traction out of corners but nothing that blows your skirt up.

High power/torque needs 4WD. Period.

If you really must get a FWD diff, I would also fit the equal length driveshafts from the BKD diesel engine. 

Having a long and a short shaft with an LSD creates havoc on bumpy country roads under hard load, especially with cambered roads and lowered suspension where bump steer also creates it's own mess.  And the car doesn't want to turn-in as keenly with a diff either. And the diff can actually increase understeer unless you apply throttle in the corners to engage it, or trail brake.

But these drawbacks are what no one ever tells you.  It's all sales, sales, marketing, hype and exaggerated benefits.

The Haldex FWD diff in the Clubsport S is way better than a torsen diff, but not the easiest thing to integrate into a MK5 ecosystem.

Realistically, you're in for 2.5-3K to fit a diff if you factor in a 'whilst you're in there Helix clutch' and a bearing/syncro refresh, with labour.  Just the 1st to 2nd syncro hub is £200ish on its own. You could buy and fit an S3 4WD setup for that, or less.  And even then the Gen4 Haldex isn't all that   

The Haldex on the MK7 is waaaaaaay more responsive/proactive, and the newer system on the MK8 (can't remember the brand) is even better still.

So in other words, don't sink big dollar into mods that only offer minimal gains 

It's actually faster point to point, to run less boost and leave the rest of the car alone. And cheaper 

For fun driving I still prefer my FWD to a AWD car. I believe the 8R with torque vectoring and the possibility to send more than 50% of the torque to rear axle can be tuned to be a lot of fun to drive too. Stock vs stock all car journalists say the 8 GTI CS is more fun to drive than the 8R...

With a LSD you have to learn how to corner, but if you do it well you get the car to corner faster. I think I spent around 2000€ with this upgrade because a DSG just needs a tune to handle more torque.