All Things Mk5 > How to Guides / Troubleshooting

DIY: 2.0T FSI Timing Belt Replacement

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pudding:
Thanks mate.  That's why I post what I post, to pass on the knowledge.  I think more people should attempt this kind of work to save money and learn what makes their cars tick  :smiley:

Unlike the timing chain, no special tools are required to change a belt  :happy2:

john_o:
comprehensive you two , well done for keeping this alive

Kayubra:
Great post.
Wanted to share my bit:
Upon changing the belt, tensioner, idlers, and water pump a misfire and rough idle were present. (triggering EPC light)
Happens that by raising and lowering the engine, the hose that brings vacuum to the brake booster got cracked and disconnected. At 259K km, it was brittle and split.   Here's a picture in case anyone runs into the same problem.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50770436637_c6a6b55ebc_m.jpg
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50769571863_731d5732fe_m.jpg

MartinNorhave:

--- Quote from: pudding on September 04, 2018, 06:54:03 pm ---Having done this to mine today, I thought I would add some additional notes and tips.

Parts list and torque specs at the bottom.

The car in Dazza's guide has the older 1 piece timing cover.  Cars with 2 piece covers have a slightly different procedure, otherwise the guide is accurate so I won't repeat what's already been said.

By far the most awkward part of this job is getting the engine mount support bracket in and out, otherwise it's a very simple job  :smiley:

In addition to the above, I replaced the water pump, so there will be some additional steps:

Before starting this job, I recommend checking measuring block 93 in VCDS with the engine idling. It should be in the 0 to -4KW range.

1 - After jacking the car up, removing the driver's side wheel, dropping the belly pan and lower arch liner - drain the coolant.   The easiest way is to pop a bucket under the lower radiator hose (just above the boost pipe) and let it all flow out.  Rather than messing with the quick release tab, which can be stubborn to come off, I pulled the clamp down. 

2 - Remove the two 16mm bolts that connect the dogbone to the gearbox.

3 - Remove the rubber boost hose.  I also removed the metal boost pipe as I wanted the work area as clear as possible, but you don't NEED to do that.

4 - Clear away everything from the upper work area, and I mean everything.  The timing belt covers are a pain to get off/on, so the less things in the way, the better.  This will ensure you don't lose patience and end up breaking the cover(s).



5 - Before removing the belt covers, I found it easier to loosen the mount bracket off to allow enough wriggle room to get the upper cover off.

6 -  Remove the bracket bolts as described above.  With the bracket loose, you can now move it far enough out of the way to remove the upper belt cover easily.
There is also this bolt that's tucked away out of sight where my finger is that has to come out.  I used a dentist mirror to see it.  When this bolt is out, remove the remaining lower cover bolts.  Remove the bracket by wiggling it and also the lower cover.......





7 -  ......I found the bracket would only come out if pulled up, forwards, and then towards the wing, whilst moving the lower cover around:



8 - Before removing the lower belt cover and crank pulley, time the engine as described, but also use the timing marks on the crank pulley - which he did not cover:



9 - Remove the crank pulley and lower belt cover.

10 -  With everything off, make additional marks on crank sprocket as shown.  This is needed for when you rotate the engine twice after fitting the belt to make sure the timing correct.





11- Remove the old belt, idler pullies, tensioning pulley and water pump.  Get that bucket under the block as loads of water will gush out when you pull the pump out.

12 - Now it's time to put the new stuff back on, which needless to say is the reverse of removal!   In the guide above, he mentions making sure the belt is really tight on the right hand side (under the water pump), but you don't need to worry about that too much.  Fit it as he describes as best you can.  When you tension the belt, it will pull tight.  Spin the motor twice and make sure the timing marks still align.

Fill the expansion tank with 50/50 G13 water mix and start the engine.  All should be good with no weird noises and idling smoothly.  If not, stop the engine immediately and recheck you work.  You will need to run the engine until the fans come on, whilst topping off the expansion tank.   Take it for a 20 min drive, check for leaks.  If you checked block 93 with VCDS at the start, check it again make sure the reading hasn't moved.   Check the coolant level the next day and top off if necessary.  All done  :happy2:

Parts list for belt + water pump change:

06F198119A - Repair kit (belt, idler pullies, tensioner etc)
06F121011 - Water pump with O ring
91143901 - qty 6 - Crank pulley bolts
90945002 - qty 3 - Bolt
90628303 - qty 2 - Bolt
90597005 - qty 1 - Bolt
91029602 - qty 1 - Bolt
90596906 - qty 1 - Bolt
10552402 - qty 2 - Bolt
2 bottles of G13 coolant



Torque specs:

16mm engine mount bracket to block - 45nm.
18mm engine mount - 60nm + 90 degrees.
16mm engine mount to body - 40nm + 90 degrees.
Crank pulley bolts - 20nm + 90 degrees.
Water pump - 15nm
Tensioner pulley nut - 25nm
Lower idler pulley - 35nm
Upper idler pulley - 25nm

--- End quote ---

When I look at block 93 my phase position is at -6. You say that we should check that it is within range. But not what we should do if it is outside

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