Low Oil Pressure Warning / Engine rattling/Car not starting/Battery slowly dying

[GTi-Tecnix]

I’m going to change oil to 10w 40 Fully synthetic as I used the 5w 30. Some engines need more pressure as they age which is probably appropriate in my case.

Will check the oil pressure tomorrow at the garage - car is still with the guys!

The cam follower was ok when we checked it - there wasn’t any visible wear that was serious as some of the horror stories I’ve read online! but I always knew at the back of mind that I should change it but it must’ve slipped my mind. 

To recap, I’ve  changed the following:
Cam-timing chain kit
Timing belt
Water pump
Radiator
5w 30 oil Oil / oil filter

Will need to see if it’s the oil pressure switch or if changing oil grade helps the warning at all.

[Dan_FR]

Right - firstly 5W30 is fine. All a 10w40 will do is mask any issues temporarily

Secondly check the oil pressure and then get the mechanics to identify where the noise is originating from. You mention checking the cam follower, but I thought this was a new engine? Or have you reused your old follower and HPFP or something???

Finally, again,  do not change the oil grade to try and fix this issue!!! Get the pressure checked properly, if it is low, get it fixed properly before you kill another engine.

[GTi-Tecnix]

Right - firstly 5W30 is fine. All a 10w40 will do is mask any issues temporarily

Secondly check the oil pressure and then get the mechanics to identify where the noise is originating from. You mention checking the cam follower, but I thought this was a new engine? Or have you reused your old follower and HPFP or something???

Finally, again,  do not change the oil grade to try and fix this issue!!! Get the pressure checked properly, if it is low, get it fixed properly before you kill another engine.

yes they used my old cam follower and I got a second hand hpfp because the sensor on my old one was broken so had to get a new one. They are changing the oil pressure switch sensor first to see.

[pudding]

Or you could just cut out the guess work by installing an oil pressure gauge into the filter housing to see what the actual pressure is.

[Dan_FR]

^^Exactly this^^

Any decent garage should have an old fashioned mechanical pressure testing kit - screw in the adaptor in place of the oil pressure switch and check how much pressure you have. If it is very low (less than say 3 Bar on a cold idle, or less than a Bar on a warm idle) then switch it off and get the sump off it

A healthy engine should see 5 Bar plus of oil pressure on a cold start

[pudding]

And just to add to that /\, the oil pressure sender is M10x1 thread pitch, so make sure the garage don't just ram any old 1/8 NTP fitting into it and fook the threads up!  Seen that done so many times because M10x1 isn't a common thread for pressure fittings.

[GTi-Tecnix]

Thanks for the input guys they dont have have an oil pressure tester but a compressor with gauge is at the garage for tyres.

Forgot to mention that the rev counter is flicking up to 20 not running smooth as should.

[GTi-Tecnix]

And just to add to that /\, the oil pressure sender is M10x1 thread pitch, so make sure the garage don't just ram any old 1/8 NTP fitting into it and fook the threads up!  Seen that done so many times because M10x1 isn't a common thread for pressure fittings.

was a nice Xmas for you Puds?   

Large up your shoes and socks!

[MIJ_JAGGER]

Why didn't you stick an Ed30 engine in?
Perfect opportunity for it

[GTi-Tecnix]

My oil pressure switch is single terminal pin!

Alternate OEM ref i.e:

06A919081D /& or
06A919081J

[GTi-Tecnix]

My oil pressure switch is single terminal pin!

Alternate OEM ref i.e:

06A919081D /& or
06A919081J

Folks, if you’re in the same boat as me, then to check the oil pressure switch would be the first point of checking which is relatively the least serious and cheapest option i.e. solution to remedy or rectify. 

[GTi-Tecnix]

So oil pressure switch changed and oil warning is off now thankfully. Changed the cam follower too!
However we've now taken out the cam chain adjuster housing cover and seen some wear on there where the rings sit. (I used my old one on the new engine). BTW I bought just the engine block off the internet at relatively a cheap deal, and used most of the anciliaries from my old engine.

Whilst there is some considerable doubt with the engine, we are still attempting in trying to find the route problem i.e. the grinding rattle noise and have found it could be one of the camshafts as one is slightly away from its edge on none of the sides and not sitting flush ( you can place a piece of paper in between the gap).. One of my shafts on the old engine was OK and the other was badly damaged through cessation. So going to use one of the camshafts to replace.

Now the thing I'm really concerned with is when the new timing chain, adjuster and tensioner were fitted, the mechanic may not have been aware that there is a special tool for the GTI to fit the the chain i.e. holding the camshafts aligned in place whilst doing so! I'm a but worried about this part. Nonetheless we are taking off the camshaft rail that hold the two in place but I'm having to remind my mechanic that he MUST ensure to use the torque wrench when placing the bolts back in with 8 power! (Hope this is correct as I have a stage one map). I also advised him too use the special prematex grey torque sealant for the cam rail which is a thin layer on the edges when placing it back on.

In order to get to the camshaft we want to replace- we have had to undo the expansion tank, alternator tensioner belt, disconnect fuel rails and connections, water pipes, top mount and in order to get to the timing belt, we were wrestling to take out the bottom engine Mount which was an absolute nightmare with the lack of space to manoeuvre there and the brake fluid tank in the way! We unbolted the cover and then jacked the engine up in order to allow sufficient room to get that monting off- this was a very risky process to use a wooden plank underneath the sump to raise the engine as the engine slips if you jack it too hugh! The timing chain has to come off too at the other side.

[pudding]

Wear in the VVT adjuster is normal.  If it's a problem you will get "slow response" fault codes.   You can also track it's response with VCDS.

If I were you I would fit a new complete engine.   Not really a good idea mixing and matching cams when they are line bored to each cylinder head, plus too much scope for error with the timing unless you are at expert level.  Doesn't sound like your garage is at that level if they didn't even use the locking tool for the cams.

[r5gtt]

Buy cheap buy twice without sounding like a critic 

New engine needed, no half baked parts or is your name josh from the tt forum who never listened and ended up scrapping the car after spending £2k   

[GTi-Tecnix]

Buy cheap buy twice without sounding like a critic 

New engine needed, no half baked parts or is your name josh from the tt forum who never listened and ended up scrapping the car after spending £2k   

Yes ! Just got the news from the garage yesterday folks that oil is not coming up the top engine why the oil pressure had come up again. Though we had changed the oil switch and the oil not coming up completely, the camshafts show some scratching. I do need to look for a new engine. All in all £1500 cost! I used my oil filter housing from my old engine but if we change this part there is no guarantee that the grinding noise wil disappear. Theyve told me its 50/50 chance.l Now I need a new engine £1k!

The bare block was a non starter that I bought £300. Never buy a block that comes with no warrantee!! The guy who sold me the engine said I have two engines and can make a new engine by getting the best out of both. Bad advise!

So need advice what engine I should go for as I have now options. Been three weeks and my car stuck in the garage. These guys are devastated that this is the case for my car... My car is a DSG AXX.. Please advise me on the engines that I can go for my car.

Cheers!