Have you replaced your front strut or front spring before? Tools required?

[ReflexRob]

Hi all, it's been suggested that a 14mm triple square bit will undo the bolt where the strut meets the hub but the pelican guide says 16mm triple square.

I would be really grateful if people who have done their own strut removal could help as I can't get a 16 anywhere....

[neilw]

Did it recently, 90% sure it was a M14. I had to buy the next size up as my set only went to M12

Edit- Just looked at my ebay history Definitely M14

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bergen-1-2-DR-Impact-Spline-Bit-Socket-M14-X-78MM-1456/152597127043?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

Get yourself a spreader tool as well there £5-6 on ebay, useful for this job.



You might find the whole job easier by leaving the hub and removing the whole lot by taking the caliper off. If I was doing the job again I'd do it that way. Depends on what you're replacing, if its the shock its got to come out anyway.

[ReflexRob]

Thanks Neil.

Interesting about the brake caliper, do you have to take off the 3 bolts of the lower arm into the hub and then after releasing the top ,ount bolts and brake / abs lines from the bracket lift the whole assembly including disc out as well?

[v4rley]

Just a head up if you are removing the lower ball joint 3 bolts. Every time I have removed these I have always sheared one (bolts are part of the balljoint) next time I would try a bit of heat on them although not sure this would prevent it, just something to be aware of as few times I’ve ended up carless awaiting a replacement.
Recently I have read you can punch the broken bolt out and use a standard nut and bolt.

[pudding]

Thanks Neil.

Interesting about the brake caliper, do you have to take off the 3 bolts of the lower arm into the hub and then after releasing the top ,ount bolts and brake / abs lines from the bracket lift the whole assembly including disc out as well?

Taking the whole lump off (less brake caliper/carrier/disc) in one go is fookin heavy, and you will need to remove the driveshaft bolt.  And that means 2 x new bolts, a 200nm capable torque Wrench, a 27mm socket and a breaker bar long and stiff enough turn the bolt a further 180 degrees in one smooth motion.

I have a 3/4" 4 foot breaker bar and a few 3/4" sockets for the 'big jobs' like that.

There are probably other methods, but I find it dead easy doing it this way:

Remove the strut pinch bolt. 
Remove the lower ball joint nuts. 
Remove Track rod end (with a Splitter tool if ally hubs, otherwise club it with a hammer)
Remove driveshaft bolt.
Undo top mount
Out she comes.

I know some folk wrestle with it after removing as little as possible, but I prefer a simple life, and it's not a race. Plenty of time when doing it DIY style 

[ReflexRob]

Great advice thanks, and you were right, pinch bolt is m14. Mine located with some tapping and rust relocation!

[ReflexRob]

By the way, what specifically did you hate about the method where you spread the hub and drop it down?
Your route seems a bit longer....?

[pudding]

I used the spreader tool as well   

That wasn't a problem, pretty easy.  Pop the spreader in, turn it 90 degrees, whack the hub with a rubber or plastic mallet and it drops down no problem.

The main issue is getting enough room to pull the strut out from under the wing.  The only way I could push the hub down far enough was to remove the driveshaft and lower ball joint.  I might have been able to wrestle it out without detaching the tie rod as well, but I removed that as well as it's easy enough.

[ReflexRob]

Cheers Pudding.

I definitely don't want to pull the drive shaft!!!! The Pelican guide doesn't say this so I remain optimistic!

Whilst waiting for the spreader tool to arrive I had a look at where it should go and found a pretty small rusty looking hole! I hope it works!

[pudding]

Once you take the 14mm pinch bolt out, the spreader goes into the gap at the back of the hub, under the damper's positioning tang.  You will see.

If you can push the hub down far enough to lift the strut out and then negotiate it out of the arch without removing the driveshaft, it certainly saves a lot of time.

If you have to remove the driveshaft, it's dead easy.  It's a good time to replace knackered CV boots!

[ReflexRob]

Well I got the spreader tool today. Waste of time and money, turned 90 degrees and the metal it pushed pretty much crumbled.

Tried both front struts, no separation from the strut at all.

I think the age of these cars is going to hamper maintenance more and more nowadays.

Edit, is the spreader tool supposed to go in horizontally?

[Rigsby]

You put it in vertical then turn it so it spreads the strut housing

[MIJ_JAGGER]

WD40 and a hammer

[pudding]

Not had any troubles like that with the spreader tool, but you can also get a small cold chisel and whack it into the gap from underneath.  Everyone loves whacking it into a gap don't they? 

[ReflexRob]

Didn't explain that very well - what I meant was does the tool go in the notch gap vertically from underneath or do you put it into the gap on the side of the hub where the locator slides down and twist it in a horizontal axis?

I tried the chisel method - that didn't get anywhere either!

I soaked it in PlusGas again and will have another go tonight. Surely mine can't be any worse than other daily driven early Mk5's? It's only got 80k on the clock too......