Fitting uprated mounts

[oak_grun]

How hard is it to fit a set of vibratechnic engine and subframe mounts?

Could it be done on driveway with a trolley jack or is a ramp required? Any guides and list of tools required?

Thanks in advance.

[GitFlog]

dont know if this will help you out i have not done it myself but had a look recently along with so much other stuff i would like to be able to do myself, the engine mounts dont look that bad to do dont know about any others.

[pudding]

Yep, easily done on the drive with axle stands and a trolley jack to support the weight of the engine / gearbox when you take the old mount off.

Gearbox side = Battery out, battery tray out, wiring harness trunking unclipped and moved out of the way, jack up the gearbox slightly to take the load off the mount, remove 3 x gearbox to bracket bolts, remove 4 x mount to body bolts.   Fit new mount, drop jack down.  Done.

Engine side = Jack up with a big peice of wood on the sump to spread the load, expansion tank moved out of the way, carbon can removed or moved out of the way, nearby hoses moved out of the way, washer fluid neck unbolted and moved out of the way, remove carbon can bracket, remove 2 x 13mm bolts (body to mount) and bracket, undo 2 x bracket to engine bolts, remove 2 x mount to body bolts.  Fit new mount, drop jack down. Done.

Subframe mount = remove torque link (22mm bolt and 2 x 16 mm iirc), remove subframe, hacksaw through the plastic parts of the OEM dogbone bushes, punch them out, fit vibratechnics dogbone mounts remembering to align the notch in the top bush with the anti roll bar.

Body to engine mount = 40nm + 90 degrees. Always replace.
Mount to engine / gearbox = 60nm + 90 degrees.  Always replace.
22mm torque link bolt = 100nm + 90 degrees. Always replace.

The 2 side mounts are 30 mins each if you're handy with the spanners.

Subframe mount is about an hour.

[oak_grun]

Yep, easily done on the drive with axle stands and a trolley jack to support the weight of the engine / gearbox when you take the old mount off.

Gearbox side = Battery out, battery tray out, wiring harness trunking unclipped and moved out of the way, jack up the gearbox slightly to take the load off the mount, remove 3 x gearbox to bracket bolts, remove 4 x mount to body bolts.   Fit new mount, drop jack down.  Done.

Engine side = Jack up with a big peice of wood on the sump to spread the load, expansion tank moved out of the way, carbon can removed or moved out of the way, nearby hoses moved out of the way, washer fluid neck unbolted and moved out of the way, remove carbon can bracket, remove 2 x 13mm bolts (body to mount) and bracket, undo 2 x bracket to engine bolts, remove 2 x mount to body bolts.  Fit new mount, drop jack down. Done.

Subframe mount = remove torque link (22mm bolt and 2 x 16 mm iirc), remove subframe, hacksaw through the plastic parts of the OEM dogbone bushes, punch them out, fit vibratechnics dogbone mounts remembering to align the notch in the top bush with the anti roll bar.

Body to engine mount = 40nm + 90 degrees. Always replace.
Mount to engine / gearbox = 60nm + 90 degrees.  Always replace.
22mm torque link bolt = 100nm + 90 degrees. Always replace.

The 2 side mounts are 30 mins each if you're handy with the spanners.

Subframe mount is about an hour.

Cheers Kev

[pudding]

No worries!  The torque link bolt might be 21mm actually, thinking back to when I last did it.

It's a straight forward job.  Just don't drop the engine on the floor 

[Teutonic_Tamer]

Might be worth doing a cambelt and water pump change if they are close to due date.