Make a donation

Author Topic: Sound dampening/proofing  (Read 14529 times)

Offline xxx_mojo_xxx

  • Just look at my post count
  • ******
  • Thank You
  • -Given: 39
  • -Receive: 19
  • Posts: 1406
  • MUBster DUBster
    • Project MUBster DUBster Evolution
    • Email
Re: Sound dampening/proofing
« Reply #15 on: March 08, 2010, 11:26:40 pm »


This video demonstrates how to remove the interior door card.  That was never the issue...it's removing the exterior door skin which is more fiddly....

Could I sound proof the metal areas exposed with the interior door card off?  Would that be a worth while exercise?

Offline Gti Jal

  • Always Involved
  • ****
  • Thank You
  • -Given: 4
  • -Receive: 4
  • Posts: 132
Re: Sound dampening/proofing
« Reply #16 on: March 09, 2010, 07:40:01 am »
Could I sound proof the metal areas exposed with the interior door card off?  Would that be a worth while exercise?

Thats exactley what I did and it has made ALL the difference. When you see the pro Audio installers sound proof a car they stick it to everything. You dont need to do that. A big bit on the centre of the panel is usually enough.

When you take the factory speaker out you have a large enough hole to work through. I used strips the same width as the diameter of the hole.

Taking the door skin off is fraught with risk of damage.

Offline xxx_mojo_xxx

  • Just look at my post count
  • ******
  • Thank You
  • -Given: 39
  • -Receive: 19
  • Posts: 1406
  • MUBster DUBster
    • Project MUBster DUBster Evolution
    • Email
Re: Sound dampening/proofing
« Reply #17 on: March 09, 2010, 08:14:47 pm »
I take it you drilled out the rivets to remove the speakers?

Offline Gti Jal

  • Always Involved
  • ****
  • Thank You
  • -Given: 4
  • -Receive: 4
  • Posts: 132
Re: Sound dampening/proofing
« Reply #18 on: March 10, 2010, 06:20:11 pm »
Sure did. The rivet size is 4.6mm.  I was keen not to break the factory primer on the hole so I used a 2.5 -3mm first and then a bigger one to take the head off. You should then be able to push the old rivet through the back. Be careful not to drop it as it will rattle around if it gets out of reach.

Offline xxx_mojo_xxx

  • Just look at my post count
  • ******
  • Thank You
  • -Given: 39
  • -Receive: 19
  • Posts: 1406
  • MUBster DUBster
    • Project MUBster DUBster Evolution
    • Email
Re: Sound dampening/proofing
« Reply #19 on: March 10, 2010, 08:09:56 pm »
How did you fix the new speakers?

Offline Gti Jal

  • Always Involved
  • ****
  • Thank You
  • -Given: 4
  • -Receive: 4
  • Posts: 132
Re: Sound dampening/proofing
« Reply #20 on: March 10, 2010, 11:12:10 pm »
The plastic adapters are drilled for the rivets to attach to the door and on the speaker face for screws.


I really wouldn't use the plastic adapters. I have great overall bass response given the location, BUT snare drums seem to induce a strange panel resonance that is annoying.  I blame the plastic adapters for this, there is no dampning between the adapter and the door. I am pi$$ed off as I'm going to strip them down again to fit MDF speaker rings as a potential cure.


<- Winner two pair!
« Last Edit: March 10, 2010, 11:17:03 pm by Gti Jal »