R32 owner - anything I need to do

[stuartj9]

I hope I'm not the black sheep of the family lol. I've had my R32 (56) MK5 for 2 months now. I love it! Anyway, I was wondering if there's anything I should have done on it to prolong it's life. It's had an oil and filter change It's on 111k miles now. Is there anything else I need to look out for?

TIA

[Andy]

Plugs and haldex every 40k..clean all the  crap out from behind wheel trim..I have had mine detailed and the paint work ceramic coated

[stuartj9]

Thanks Andy.. Haldex was done 10k ago with the plugs so another 30k to go ;)

Anything else guys?

[pudding]

Engine wise they are utter tanks apart from chain wear.  Unfortunately yours is on the 2005/2006 change over year for the revised chain gear.

Therefore I would buy VCDS and scan measuring blocks 208 and 209 and check the chain condition.  Outer wear limit is -8 to +8KW.  After that the ECU can no longer correlate the crank/cam position and will run in limp mode.

If you're anywhere near Suffolk, happy to scan it for you and look over the car.  I was a bit of an R32 guru back in the day 

[stuartj9]

Pudding, you the man! Right, I have a VCDS (genuine) so will give it a scan tomorrow. Car feels great apart from a knock when turning (I've been told it's top mounts so nothing to worry about). Appreciate the offer of a scan though  I will post my results tomorrow. No signs of limp mode on this lump. It's quick and a real pleasure to drive.

Would mine not have the newer chain? It's 56 so late 2006. It was actually 19 Sept 2006.

Engine wise they are utter tanks apart from chain wear.  Unfortunately yours is on the 2005/2006 change over year for the revised chain gear.

Therefore I would buy VCDS and scan measuring blocks 208 and 209 and check the chain condition.  Outer wear limit is -8 to +8KW.  After that the ECU can no longer correlate the crank/cam position and will run in limp mode.

If you're anywhere near Suffolk, happy to scan it for you and look over the car.  I was a bit of an R32 guru back in the day 

[Andy]

If the chains are in tolerance then they will be fine..also the knock could be top mount or they are known for sub frame knock which you can fix with a kit..

[stuartj9]

Sub frame kit has been done 

It's definitely the top mounts, as you rightly said. CV joints look fine.

[pudding]

2006 will probably have the newer chains, but worth checking those measuring blocks anyway.  Chains just wear out regardless!  Hopefully yours will be in the 0 to +3KW range which is spot on.

What subframe kit does it have?  The toothed washers from VAG is only a temporary solution.  Proper collars are needed to take up the (huge) difference in the bolt to hole diameter.

I've never heard a top mount knock unless severely worn.  The most common cause of front end knocking on these cars is either the steering rack or subframe movement.  If it just a top mount, happy days, put a pair of TT ones on as they are beefier.  If not....... get saving!

[stuartj9]

I've used the toothed washers but to be honest, it hasn't made a difference. I think the subframe is fine.. for now.

The knock is a very slight tap on turning both ways. It's more annoying than anything.

Here's the 208 and 209 logs. All done with engine off (is this right?)

16:06:59 Group 208: Camshaft Adjustment Adaptation (Intake)
  0 /min  Engine Speed (G28)
  123  Phase Position Intake Cam.
  -5.0°KW  Intake Cam. Offset
  00100000  Intake Cam. Adaptation

16:06:59 Group 209: Camshaft Adjustment Adaptation (Exhaust)
  0 /min  Engine Speed (G28)
  75  Phase Position Exhaust Cam.
  -3.0°KW  Exhaust Cam. Offset
  00100000  Exhaust Cam. Adaptation

2006 will probably have the newer chains, but worth checking those measuring blocks anyway.  Chains just wear out regardless!  Hopefully yours will be in the 0 to +3KW range which is spot on.

What subframe kit does it have?  The toothed washers from VAG is only a temporary solution.  Proper collars are needed to take up the (huge) difference in the bolt to hole diameter.

I've never heard a top mount knock unless severely worn.  The most common cause of front end knocking on these cars is either the steering rack or subframe movement.  If it just a top mount, happy days, put a pair of TT ones on as they are beefier.  If not....... get saving!

[pudding]

5 and 3 is cool and the gang 

Keep an eye on it.  When they start drifting towards +8KW, that's when they need changing.

If the knock/tap/click is only at very low speeds with lots of steering lock, it's subframe movement.  Usually clunks once and then is fine for the rest of the journey.

[stuartj9]

 

The knock is a tapping when turning and it's say, 6 times per full lock at the same intervals, no clunk. It might happen at higher speeds but I don't hear it then.