Intake Manifold Flap

[Wadgti]

Nice one I will measure blocks 142 and 143 tongiht when I get home and post the results, will also do a datalog but not sure if you can attached xls sheets to the post?

@Pudding temped to use a wire coat hanger and some string  and make a pulley system for the flaps and just do it manually 

[pudding]

Have you got google drive?  If you have, just bung it on there put a link to it on here.  Make sure it's got public access though.  If not, set yourself up with a gmail account and you'll get it as standard 

What VCDS have you got?  I highly recommend HEX-NET and use VCDS mobile.  It's REALLY useful for checking stuff when driving.  You can't really look at a laptop sat on the passenger seat but a log would work also.

Log pedal position, water temp, rpm and flap position actual (143) and see what happens before reverting to medieval pulleys and ropes 

[Wadgti]

So i did a run earlier  - i will try and post the pictures but not sure how to lay them out on the post. I will download tapatalk tomorrow and see if that helps - I have named the photos

Before adaption - code not cleared


Before adaption - code not cleared - idle


Adaption screen - before adaption


Adaption complete
[img width= height= alt=Adaption-complete" border="0]https://i.ibb.co/PxwYqLk/Adaption-complete.jpg[/img]

Idle after adaption


1800rpm


Log file -

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1z3vBybiUAtm3QCrP0XbAaWfp_b4-3V_S/view?usp=sharing

[Wadgti]

Sorry I dont have excel on this laptop - usually use the work so I cant make sense of the data this now. Any thoughts would be appreciated.

The plot thickens....

[pudding]

Hmmmm, I'm now wondering if the % is open or closed now      Yours is definitely moving but it seems to be the reverse operation of mine!. 99% open makes more sense than 99% closed thinking about it.  The plot does indeed thicken! 

Mine drives perfectly fine though!  God knows.  I'll try a basic settings adaptation and see if that changes anything!

[Wadgti]

Hmmmm, I'm now wondering if the % is open or closed now      Yours is definitely moving but it seems to be the reverse operation of mine!. 99% open makes more sense than 99% closed thinking about it.  The plot does indeed thicken! 

Mine drives perfectly fine though!  God knows.  I'll try a basic settings adaptation and see if that changes anything!

Plot deff thickens now...

So changed the oil and fuel filter and over course pulled the fuel pump fuse on Saturday.

Scanned the car (car done about 100 miles since changed) today when I got back from work. Readiness was fully complete and no manifold codes only low pressure code for the fuel pump overcourse.

I will check it again in 2 days and see if the manifold codes are back but really strange. Ofcourse oil change wouldnt do anything, but thinking as I let the car die on ide with the pump out and had a violent shudder  - i wonder if its knocked something into place on the flap motor - might be grasping tho.

Ps that sealey wrench came - its so small I could swallow it 

[muff1991]

Wad.. that sealey ratchet is the dogs though ain’t it! Will defo get in there!
So looking at your log, it almost seems like it’s varying under engine load as mentioned above. And I’d say 0% probably is open flaps looking at the higher load on your engine. But it would also make sense that 0% would be closed and 99% would be open. However I’m a bit confused on the whole thing tbh.
Looking at the voltage figures I would say they’re probs not far off correct. Coz that’s the 3rd GTI I’ve seen that shows around 2k volts and then 3k volts actual and specific after an adaptation!
I also have a spare motor which I plugged in (didn’t fit) and when you start turning the motor arm you see the voltage move! So the voltage shown is basically a position marking. Like a percentage of a throttle peddle for instance. Doesn’t make sense to me how they don’t match after an adaptation though maybe they just don’t.
I am starting to wonder if my issue and probably yours Wad.. could have something to do with a low fuel pressure sensor (the one in the side of HPFP). This sensor is run off the same 5v wire from the same pin on the ECU along with the IAT, inlet flap motor, cam sensor and coolant temp sensor! If any ones of these sensors are faulty they pull back on the others. Or revert others to a default/basic setting.
We ain’t had no cold weather for me to poke about with VCDS lately so Ive kind of ground to a holt as all stuff I’ve looked at seems to look ok, but then mine runs alright when temps are warm! I wrapped my IAT in bag of freezing sweetcorn the other day, to imitate freezing air temps but at -7 it didn’t make a blind bit of difference. Next I need to wrap up the Coolant temp sensor - yaaay! But it’s just so weird.. freezing cold, car won’t run, disconnect IAT it runs fine! Introduce freezing air to IAT when it’s warm outside and it still runs fine.. so nothing to do with the IAT or temps there what so ever.. it must be something along that line though! I’m wondering if whatever my issue is, we could be experiencing different issues but the end result is the same part! I’ll find a way to wrap the Coolant sensor and see if that makes a difference to the flaps positioning or sumin.
Oh and for the record.. only reason I’m thinking fuel pressure sensor is one cold morning the car started it was showing 2.5-3 bar and drove laggy etc. Drove to work (hour later) by the time I got there it was showing 6bar and drove fine!
Although all that fuel pressure mentioned.. the rail pressures after that sensor was fine! WTF


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[Wadgti]

Wad.. that sealey ratchet is the dogs though ain’t it! Will defo get in there!
So looking at your log, it almost seems like it’s varying under engine load as mentioned above. And I’d say 0% probably is open flaps looking at the higher load on your engine. But it would also make sense that 0% would be closed and 99% would be open. However I’m a bit confused on the whole thing tbh.
Looking at the voltage figures I would say they’re probs not far off correct. Coz that’s the 3rd GTI I’ve seen that shows around 2k volts and then 3k volts actual and specific after an adaptation!
I also have a spare motor which I plugged in (didn’t fit) and when you start turning the motor arm you see the voltage move! So the voltage shown is basically a position marking. Like a percentage of a throttle peddle for instance. Doesn’t make sense to me how they don’t match after an adaptation though maybe they just don’t.
I am starting to wonder if my issue and probably yours Wad.. could have something to do with a low fuel pressure sensor (the one in the side of HPFP). This sensor is run off the same 5v wire from the same pin on the ECU along with the IAT, inlet flap motor, cam sensor and coolant temp sensor! If any ones of these sensors are faulty they pull back on the others. Or revert others to a default/basic setting.
We ain’t had no cold weather for me to poke about with VCDS lately so Ive kind of ground to a holt as all stuff I’ve looked at seems to look ok, but then mine runs alright when temps are warm! I wrapped my IAT in bag of freezing sweetcorn the other day, to imitate freezing air temps but at -7 it didn’t make a blind bit of difference. Next I need to wrap up the Coolant temp sensor - yaaay! But it’s just so weird.. freezing cold, car won’t run, disconnect IAT it runs fine! Introduce freezing air to IAT when it’s warm outside and it still runs fine.. so nothing to do with the IAT or temps there what so ever.. it must be something along that line though! I’m wondering if whatever my issue is, we could be experiencing different issues but the end result is the same part! I’ll find a way to wrap the Coolant sensor and see if that makes a difference to the flaps positioning or sumin.
Oh and for the record.. only reason I’m thinking fuel pressure sensor is one cold morning the car started it was showing 2.5-3 bar and drove laggy etc. Drove to work (hour later) by the time I got there it was showing 6bar and drove fine!
Although all that fuel pressure mentioned.. the rail pressures after that sensor was fine! WTF


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I wish there was a more in depth workings of how the flap motor works and how vcds reads valves and what they relate to. Sadly I haven't found much. More specifically the upper voltage stop as it read's 0 volts when throwing a code.

Drove another 60 miles and the low end torque is deffenitly back and can hear a louder spool from inside the cabin with the windows closed now so the motor is deff working.

I seen on the tdi forums that there was an issue with broken wires inside the loom cant recall which sensors so wouldnt rule it out that they may be an issue with the loom - hopefully not.

When I changed the cam follower last month, I cleaned the sensor connection for the HPFP and coolant sensor and will do the other sensors as I come across them. I also cleaned the MAF with molly proper MAF cleaner (this stuff is nuts - used it for years - I brought my mates MAF back to life when readings were under 50 g/s and throwing codes). Cold starts I know can relate to the MAF and may not throw a code - I would deff give it a clean if its not been touched in years. I sprayed my maf against some kitchen roll and some oil did come off it.

Getting the car carbon cleaned tomorrow so hopefully will slightly improve things.

Whats the blocks for measuring the fuel pump pressure?

Thanks

[muff1991]

think its group 103 and 106. go into advanced measuring blocks and just type it in, loads easier and can look at 12 blocks if your choice!

[pudding]

Did a basic settings/adaptation on my flaps and still the same behaviour.  99% closed/open until 50 degrees water temp and/or more than 60% pedal.  Past 50 degs, 99% closed/open until the pedal is above 20ish %.  Sorry guys, not sure what the deal is with these flaps!  It drives spot on so I'm inclined to think mine is 'normal'.

[muff1991]

The more I thought about all this. The more I thought they probably are normal. FWIW I’m going to chuck a rev E motor on purely as I got given one for free and it’s like new! I come to conclusion in my head that it’s probs not this motor or flaps anyway, so unless error codes are pinging up for this... I’m going to allow these flapjacks for now and revert back to replacing every temp sensor going
@Wad, did you replace your motor?


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[Wadgti]

The more I thought about all this. The more I thought they probably are normal. FWIW I’m going to chuck a rev E motor on purely as I got given one for free and it’s like new! I come to conclusion in my head that it’s probs not this motor or flaps anyway, so unless error codes are pinging up for this... I’m going to allow these flapjacks for now and revert back to replacing every temp sensor going
@Wad, did you replace your motor?


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Sadly not yet, I moved house last year, so I have had to spend the last 2 weeks doing the garden as I have shed being delivered and prepping to build my garage - so time has been short at the moment.

I will try and possibly give it a go this saturday. I have a feeling the the code is back, but really its changing on a day to day basis with the low end torque being there and not.

Got the engine carbon cleaned - was a bit of the joke tho the guy couldn't secure the pipe into the air intake - ended up taking out the air intake sensor and fed in via that. There was more or less than got 0 smoke out of the exhaust and nothing coming out in terms of carbon deposits. The guy doing it was a bit perplexed and only changed me half. What was weird was during the process the exhaust gas was coming out cold for a period of time lol.

[Wadgti]

Just a quick update guys,

changed the fuel filter yesterday - it was the original one from the factory still on it, mileage is now has 99k just turned the other day.

Since changing the filter more power is back, low end torque too picks up instantly from 2k revs - car feels like 200 bhp now and misfire on idle is gone. Just for info - this is what came out of the old filter 

[muff1991]

Well would ya believe that wad sometimes its the most simplest of maintenance lol good find and glad yours its all sorted now mate.


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[pudding]

That's why I replace the fuel filter on mine every year