Wad.. that sealey ratchet is the dogs though ain’t it! Will defo get in there!
So looking at your log, it almost seems like it’s varying under engine load as mentioned above. And I’d say 0% probably is open flaps looking at the higher load on your engine. But it would also make sense that 0% would be closed and 99% would be open. However I’m a bit confused on the whole thing tbh.
Looking at the voltage figures I would say they’re probs not far off correct. Coz that’s the 3rd GTI I’ve seen that shows around 2k volts and then 3k volts actual and specific after an adaptation!
I also have a spare motor which I plugged in (didn’t fit) and when you start turning the motor arm you see the voltage move! So the voltage shown is basically a position marking. Like a percentage of a throttle peddle for instance. Doesn’t make sense to me how they don’t match after an adaptation though maybe they just don’t.
I am starting to wonder if my issue and probably yours Wad.. could have something to do with a low fuel pressure sensor (the one in the side of HPFP). This sensor is run off the same 5v wire from the same pin on the ECU along with the IAT, inlet flap motor, cam sensor and coolant temp sensor! If any ones of these sensors are faulty they pull back on the others. Or revert others to a default/basic setting.
We ain’t had no cold weather for me to poke about with VCDS lately so Ive kind of ground to a holt as all stuff I’ve looked at seems to look ok, but then mine runs alright when temps are warm! I wrapped my IAT in bag of freezing sweetcorn the other day, to imitate freezing air temps but at -7 it didn’t make a blind bit of difference. Next I need to wrap up the Coolant temp sensor - yaaay! But it’s just so weird.. freezing cold, car won’t run, disconnect IAT it runs fine! Introduce freezing air to IAT when it’s warm outside and it still runs fine.. so nothing to do with the IAT or temps there what so ever.. it must be something along that line though! I’m wondering if whatever my issue is, we could be experiencing different issues but the end result is the same part! I’ll find a way to wrap the Coolant sensor and see if that makes a difference to the flaps positioning or sumin.
Oh and for the record.. only reason I’m thinking fuel pressure sensor is one cold morning the car started it was showing 2.5-3 bar and drove laggy etc. Drove to work (hour later) by the time I got there it was showing 6bar and drove fine!
Although all that fuel pressure mentioned.. the rail pressures after that sensor was fine! WTF
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