Boost not meeting requested, graph inside

[pudding]

Probably for the best.  Internet diagnosis is challenging at the best of times.

[v4rley]

Yes for sure. But the help and guidance provided here has been invaluable and I thank you all for that 

[pudding]

We try    Not sure we achieved much though! 

[Dan_FR]

R-Tech don't keep the maps, but that being said I thought this was just the basic Stage 2+ calibration on this with no fine tuning due to the issues you had with boost?

[v4rley]

Yeah that’s correct Dan basic map with the power achieveing tweaks.

[ROH ECHT]

Thanks guys.

@Dan_FR I was thinking to get it to peak around 22psi on map 5 so it is reaching its full potential them maybe running the car on map 4 until I was to revisit niki. So will add a bit of preload tonight

@ROH ECHT did wonder where you had got to. I will double check the pcv, everything was check at the time of mapping so confident they gave everything a good check and there hasn’t be deterioration since, but I will check this all again, assuming it can only be physically checked as not sure on pressure testing methods.

@Pudding as above all plumbing was checked at rtech and again since my return, I will take another look to confirm.

Don’t really get the fuel issue, does this present a problem?

Any thing to investigate/ inspect for the ignition retard ?

Have you replaced the knock sensors ever?(http://cdn4.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Volkswagen_Golf_GTI_Mk_V/48-ENGINE-Knock_Sensors_Replacement/images_small/pic01.jpg)
 This is one thing that can, when failing to provide an accurate signal to the ECU, cause the ECU to pull more timing and reduce boost. Something to research if the air/boost leakage search fails to find fault. I would seriously consider replacing if nothing comes of searching and testing. They could be partially failing but not enough to code yet.

[rtechniki]

You cannot log that way as them oem boost maps are not used the are redundant they could all be set to zero and have not bearing on the boost.  The ecu us setup with rtech added code which is custom and custom set with every tuning session on the dyno unique to each car.   As we said on the day your need to investigate the issues with actuator try find a strong health one and fit it this will take the boost up on all 5 map settings. Once the car is running a healthy actuator then you will need to come back to have all 5 maps setup around the new pre load to write a new boost profile this boost profile will be graphed and then you will have an actual custom boost profile to work from.   Get the cars hardware fit first so the car can physically mechanically have the potential to make boost to support the custom mapping session.  This issue was evident on the old map you had on the ecu which was 100% flat out

[rtechniki]

you was told on the day after the first run with the old map that the n75 was flat out and the waste gate spring was the dictator of the boost something which limits what the software can over come, so there was a huge chance tuning the car would end up with the identical power which from memory it did?  so the next step was to look into why its not mechanically making boost,   i said add pre load and log if the actaul boost is higher by a small amount the you will need to get a new actuator fitted, or find a full healthy turbo, then run the car on map 1 then bring it back to have it fully setup to the new turbo or actuator, unfortunately the software cannot over come physical restrictions and magic up more boost / power.

This is way we tell every customer to log and get a full health check on there car prior to booking a mapping session, if you logged it prior and saw the turbo was flat out and still not hitting decent boost / power we could have looked at the logs and told you its a waste of time coming in for a map as you wont be getting a massive hike in power. 

[ROH ECHT]

I agree with ↑ tune not helping create boost when it is not already doing so as it should.
It has to be a component failing or loss of boost/air issue. I missed "how you tested the WG" as mentioned but you should have adjusted and added preload to see if there was any increase. If you do/did see an increase but still failing to match target boost...you need to find why. If you do not do so yourself and instead take it to a shop, they may not investigate as thoroughly as one needs to to locate the cause.

When the N75 fails, most of the time actual boost doesn't make target, drops very low, and then climbs a bit. WGDC usually looks normal though.

When WGDC is always at a high target, it usually means a loss of boost or air somewhere. Not common it is the WG actuator diaphragm...which can be tested for a tear by adding pressure and holding it while checking if pressure is lost using a gauge.

Checking for leaks or loose seals; intake to throttle body and intake manifold to turbo inlet; requires smoke or pressure testing. Some sections may need to be plugged at opposite end of point of inducing smoke or pressure.

[v4rley]

Ok so to keep everything update, obviously spoke to Niki and he kindly provided the above info, i couldn’t remember such a in-depth conversation about the preload but this does appear to be the issue.

Weighing up options, a new actuator is £130 plus needing to remove the turbo to fit. I have a borgwarner k04 in the garage that’s brand new so thinking if I got to remove the turbo anyway I might as well go for it. Atleast I will then know it’s a new complete new turbo unit. 

[pudding]

Yeah slap the KO4 on 

[ROH ECHT]

Ok so to keep everything update, obviously spoke to Niki and he kindly provided the above info, i couldn’t remember such a in-depth conversation about the preload but this does appear to be the issue.

Weighing up options, a new actuator is £130 plus needing to remove the turbo to fit. I have a borgwarner k04 in the garage that’s brand new so thinking if I got to remove the turbo anyway I might as well go for it. Atleast I will then know it’s a new complete new turbo unit.

Just to add...The guy I mentioned having a loose rear breather and it fixed his issue...well, recently he went to a big turbo. He was having an issue again with boost. WGDC was always near 92% and boost would not meet the target boost. He found that the WG actuator provided with his turbo had a weak spring in it. This is when adding more preload will do absolutely nothing more...as the Actuator spring is allowing the WG to open prematurely. I wonder if you ever resolved this and what was found to be the fix.

[v4rley]

@ROH ECHT

I’m afraid to admit I became a bit disheartened with the situation. Although I still enjoy the car it really it is showing its age. Rusting , lacquer peel and now it’s on the daily school runs it steadily accumulating its dings too.

So apart from the above fiddling with the WG I have just let it be 

[ROH ECHT]

Thank you for coming back on here and responding....I was curious if you had ever decided to upgrade the WG or at least have it inspected.

I know about having an unexplainable issue...where you have to replace $#!@t in a process of elimination. I still haven't sorted out why my fuel rail pressure only specifies 110 bar when it should be 140 bar. After more than two years of digging and working with GIAC, nothing. I can only assume, because I went from GIAC to DriverMotorsport(DM) to GIAC again. When I was using the DM tune, I did a couple of swaps. One being I added a Forge WG Actuator for the K04 because their tune was at 26 PSI and the stock WG Actuator was having trouble staying closed so to build the boost when added preload didn't help. The other was I went catless. So those two are my focus now. I plan to get a new K04 turbo and that will have the oem actuator...and then I am going to get another catted DP.

Anyhow, I was trying to help someone with a similar issue to yours. He recently had his 2006 GTI (w/K03) tuned, but it only boosts to 17 psi and tapers down to 10 psi. Still working with him and he says there are no leaks and the DV and N75 have been replaced. But I have yet to see his boost data which he promised soon. I am leaning on it being the WG is loose to not seal when shut, the WG actuator spring is not strong enough or it needs more preload.

Sad to hear yours has been on a rough road as of late...hope you have a pick-me-up soon. Mine is luckily been able to be driven less...approximately 2500 miles per year and it is still being garaged...but it is looking to need near $4000usd in parts soon. It's a long list.

This was a month ago...can't believe I have had it for near 13 years now.