Reliability mods?

[probedb]

After my AXX failed at 150k, I replaced it with a BWA on 50k, it's now done 10k and trying to keep it reliable. It's running very well, managed over 400 miles on a tank several times. So far I've just knocked the precat out to lower temps.

Buying a house next year so saving for that and then will go stage 1.

[Octoparrot]

I would just use the best oil you can and change it regularly @6k miles, also use the best fuel you can (v power etc) to prevent injector problems, my feeling is a lot of the problems these cars experience occur when they are old and have been neglected and thrashed in the past.

[colesey]

That’s sensible advice and I would also suggest changing the fuel filter. Make sure it’s a 6.6 bar one though.

[Octoparrot]

Yes basically keep it properly serviced with quality filters, I use Mann filters which are oem and aren't expensive from Euro Car Parts. Also don't thrash it from cold.

[probedb]

Fair enough and many thanks. I'm lucky enough to have an engine from an EOS that was owned by an elderly couple from new and has never been driven hard. I'd never thrash it from cold, had a rotary previously and one sure way to kill the engine very quickly was to thrash it from cold.

[colesey]

About 25 years ago, I bought a mk1 GTi which had covered @80k miles but always using Mobil 1 which was semi-exotic back in those days. The inside of the rocker cover was pristine and golden. Then along came a similar mileage mk2 which had been run on normal mineral oil and the top end was caked with black sludge. Oil technology has doubtless evolved hugely since then however you won’t regret changing frequently with good quality oil.

[pudding]

Funnily enough I bashed my cat out yesterday and I gave the turbo shaft a wiggle, and to my surprise, it's still within tolerance at 136K. Hardly any play at all.  I put that down to not running too much boost and regular changes of a GOOD oil.  I've changed it every 3K since I bought the car on 70K miles. Mobil 1 0W40 all the way!

And that's the key to it, you don't need mods to keep it reliable, just plenty of TLC and maintenance. 

[colesey]

Tbh removing the precat could help long term reliability as it reduces temperatures.

[pudding]

Yep.  At this time of year, the under bonnet temps can get pretty severe after a hard run.  The pre-cat gets bloody hot.

Worth noting there's no risk of an EML after bashing the pre-cat out since the oxygen sensors are placed before the pre-cat, and after the main cat.  The ECU can't detect which cat is dead, only that ONE of them is.  If you do get an EML, that means the main cat is dead and the pre-cat was helping it.