New Mk5 GTI owner with a few questions

[kpowell911]

Hello, I've always been a fan of the Mk5 Golf and VW's in general. I've had a fair few VW's over the years, so Im not new to the brand, but new to the Golf, as I usually opted for a Scirocco Variant. I have a fairly modified VW Caddy which is very loosely based on the Mk5 Platform, and I have some pretty decent modifications. Long story short, my friend unfortunately lost his job and no longer requires or can afford his MK5 GTI so he offered it me for a price I couldn't refuse. Initially, my intentions was to transplant the engine and gearbox etc into my Caddy, but I haven't really planned that far ahead yet... So on Friday night, I went to have a look and we jump started it and I bought it.

Its a 2007 on 96k. It has a fairly extensive service history. However, it was MOT'd (few advisories which Ill come too) in January, used for 200 miles and then it has sat since the Start of Feb. Now, let me say, Ive paid nearly £1000 LESS than the cheapest non Category'd one on Autotrader so I'm willing to invest a little and appreciate I haven't got a perfect example, but the core is good. Miles and Age are pretty good, and its got evidence of the belts/pump etc being changed in the last 30k, BUT that was over 4 years ago

As I say, my intention was to break it and use the engine/box in my van, but to be honest its a bit too nice of an example to pull apart, so I'm going to 'restore' it and keep it as a Weekend car. and source something else Ive always wanted one since their release, however at the time in around 2007 I opted for a late Civic Type R EP3 which was a fantastic car, but I guess this is fate that I've got one now.

So, today, I spent a good few hours cleaning and peeling back the grime, gave it a 100 mile run and problems.

On the whole, it drives very very very well. It needs some bodywork, the wings have some rust (which they all appear too) as does the drivers cill and there's a scratch on the bonnet. It has the 17s, which are awful, but can be sorted.

I have two issues however I want to sort before getting too deep:

The MOT (200 miles ago)had an advisory of 'Lower Gearbox mounting defective Gearbox lower mount bush deteriorated'. There is a 'knock' occasionally when im stationary and moving the steering wheel, ie when your changing from lock to lock to park. Could this be this? IF so, what part do I need?

Secondly, this was left for 6/7 months without being started. Its had a new battery and it started straight away with a jump start off my van. We drove it 2 miles home, and when I tried to re start it it was dead again (normal). So I taxxed/insured it, took it for a 2 hour drive and its being fine since. HOWEVER, a couple of times I've started it since, Ive had three error lights on the dash. From memory, its the Tyre Pressue, the The Steering wheel sensor and the traction control light). These turn off as soon as I drive it, they've cleared by the time Ive got to the end of my drive to be honest. Just wondering if this is related to the car not being used for a while. I dont have access to Vagcom to read them, but wondering if its something needs clearing?

Other than that, Im very happy with it. I will be modifying it slightly once Ive sorted everything. I've ordered a Timing Kit/Waterpump/Aux Belt/Oil/Oil Filter/Pollen Filter/Spark Plugs/Wiper Blades/Fresh Number Plates for piece of mind then I'm looking at:

Some Genuine 18" Monza's and some decent matching Tyres
Subtle drop of around 35mm and some wheel spacers
Cat Back Exhaust
Pre Cat removal
Re Map
Big Brake kit (the brakes are shocking lol. I have 2018 RS3 ones on my van, may just swap them over)

It already has a fairly expensive looking Induction kit (possibly the Revo?)

I'll then look at the interior. The Seat Bolsters are strong, and have being professionally repaired. I'll probably retrofit Cruise Control and Xenons if I can find some cheap enough. I need to brush up on the head units, at the moment it also has a Phoenix Gold Sub/Amp/boot build and a Pioneer Head unit. Id like to remove all this and retrofit a VW Model with Navigation/Apple Car Play, but not sure what the numbers are now?

Then ill sort the bodywork, Wings and cills are easily, but its going to need a lot of paint to cover all the area and I HATE having cars painted cause Unless you spend a fortune (ie several times what Ive paid for the car) its always obvious to me. Id possibly add some ED30 Bodywork bits and bobs

Im anticipating the replies to my two questions, then I Can get cracking!

Thanks

[muff1991]

Hi Mate, welcome to the forum / GTI gang lol

lock to lock knocks can be a few things but i'd go with:
Subframe.. google subframe clonks / creaks. you'll find more info on everything there. but at a quick glance - its to do with the stretch bolts that hold the subframe in place. they're rubbish and the subframe can "shift". Either that (being the cheapest option first to replace the bolts) or it'll be the steering rack :( especially as its lock to lock, a fellow member on here had the same issue recently.

It could be the lower mount, you have the dogbone mount which is attached to the gearbox and this goes into another mount which is actually made up of 2 mounts. This is situated in the front of the subframe (1 at the top & 1 at the bottom, the dogbone slides in between them if that makes sense). TBH i wouldn't have thought it'll be that but who knows.. if the dogbone looks ok then just get the polybush insert for the subframe mount to stiffen that up. my moneys on the first 2 options. (assuming the suspension and all that is in good order).

Those lights do come on after a jump start, either from a dead battery or disconnecting/reconnecting the battery. They do indeed turn off like 30 meters down the road or less. but its strange for them to be coming on a few more starts if the battery hasn't gone dead or been disconnected. Maybe the battery inst holding the correct voltage or something. If its been sat around for 7 months, new or not... it might need another new battery?

You can grab wings off ebay for £180 painted and posted, big brake kit, map, a few subtle mods will see you through :)

plenty of good stuff floating around this forum, be sure to look into, PCV, DV, Cam Follower, Cam Chain and all the other common items that need changing here and there.

thanks,
Muff 

[kpowell911]

Hi, thanks for the reply, when you say Cam Chain, what do you mean? I thought these had a belt and Ive ordered a timing belt kit/water pump?

Thanks

[muff1991]

Hi, thanks for the reply, when you say Cam Chain, what do you mean? I thought these had a belt and Ive ordered a timing belt kit/water pump?

Thanks

These engines do have a cambelt yes, but on the opposite side the engine, the inlet cam is run by a chain from the exhaust cam. 

[kpowell911]

Hi, thanks for the reply, when you say Cam Chain, what do you mean? I thought these had a belt and Ive ordered a timing belt kit/water pump?

Thanks

These engines do have a cambelt yes, but on the opposite side the engine, the inlet cam is run by a chain from the exhaust cam. 

Hey, thanks for the reply, how much is this roughly?

[ljc19630]

Hi, thanks for the reply, when you say Cam Chain, what do you mean? I thought these had a belt and Ive ordered a timing belt kit/water pump?

Thanks

These engines do have a cambelt yes, but on the opposite side the engine, the inlet cam is run by a chain from the exhaust cam. 

Hey, thanks for the reply, how much is this roughly?

Welcome to the forum
AKS in Bedford charge £395 all in. If you’re having that done I’d also recommend getting a sump and pickup pipe clean done. Nice fresh oil and filter too Mines booked in for both on 30th. Sump/pick up pipe is £285


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[kpowell911]

Thanks for the reply, miles away for me though. Im having the sump/pick up changed and lil changed on Sunday anyway., but at least I have a ball park figure to aim for