New clutch/ DMF yes or no?

[maxamplitude10]

Guys the original clutch in my Ed30 has finally started to slip so I am in the process of ordering up a replacement.
Do I need to replace the DMF or is this just a precaution whilst the gearbox is out?
I have been quoted £540 all in for LUK clutch and DMF , anyone know of anywhere cheaper?
Also how can I tell if the DMF is knackered?
Rather than a factory LUK replacement would anyone recommend an alternative replacement?

Thanks Max

[brian_badonde]

Funny you mention this, I literally had my clutch and DMF replaced yesterday. The DMF replacement is preventative as the labour to get in to change the clutch is significant and it's not a job you want to do more than required. It rarely makes sense to replace the clutch without doing the flywheel at the same time if it's dual mass. That price sounds pretty reasonable, just make sure you get the genuine stuff with warranty etc. Assuming fitting is additional? It cost me £350 for mine to be fitted at my local indy. As I track my car on a semi-regular basis and it's been mapped, I decided to go for a Helix organic clutch to replace the OEM one, you may want to consider the same if you've got any mods or are planning on any.

My DMF was totally knackered and the symptoms were clutch slip under full throttle but with no burning clutch smell and a metallic rattle at idle which went away if you pushed the clutch pedal in. Sounds kind of like someone spinning two metal plates together, hard to describe. Both symptoms were definitely worse when the engine was hot and it seems that heat is one of the things that really kills the DMF's in addition to wear and tear.

[chimp400]

Better to just change them together, as for prices that seems about normal for a clutch and dmf kit.
I would pay a little extra to get from a trusted source.

[maxamplitude10]

Funny you mention this, I literally had my clutch and DMF replaced yesterday. The DMF replacement is preventative as the labour to get in to change the clutch is significant and it's not a job you want to do more than required. It rarely makes sense to replace the clutch without doing the flywheel at the same time if it's dual mass. That price sounds pretty reasonable, just make sure you get the genuine stuff with warranty etc. Assuming fitting is additional? It cost me £350 for mine to be fitted at my local indy. As I track my car on a semi-regular basis and it's been mapped, I decided to go for a Helix organic clutch to replace the OEM one, you may want to consider the same if you've got any mods or are planning on any.

My DMF was totally knackered and the symptoms were clutch slip under full throttle but with no burning clutch smell and a metallic rattle at idle which went away if you pushed the clutch pedal in. Sounds kind of like someone spinning two metal plates together, hard to describe. Both symptoms were definitely worse when the engine was hot and it seems that heat is one of the things that really kills the DMF's in addition to wear and tear.

Thanks I have the same symptom clutch slip at high RPM, I'll check for the metallic rattle. They are genuine LUK parts from MVC, I will order both anyway as I'm saving on the labour by fitting it myself and plan on keeping the car for the foreseeable:-)

Max

[brian_badonde]

Funny you mention this, I literally had my clutch and DMF replaced yesterday. The DMF replacement is preventative as the labour to get in to change the clutch is significant and it's not a job you want to do more than required. It rarely makes sense to replace the clutch without doing the flywheel at the same time if it's dual mass. That price sounds pretty reasonable, just make sure you get the genuine stuff with warranty etc. Assuming fitting is additional? It cost me £350 for mine to be fitted at my local indy. As I track my car on a semi-regular basis and it's been mapped, I decided to go for a Helix organic clutch to replace the OEM one, you may want to consider the same if you've got any mods or are planning on any.

My DMF was totally knackered and the symptoms were clutch slip under full throttle but with no burning clutch smell and a metallic rattle at idle which went away if you pushed the clutch pedal in. Sounds kind of like someone spinning two metal plates together, hard to describe. Both symptoms were definitely worse when the engine was hot and it seems that heat is one of the things that really kills the DMF's in addition to wear and tear.

Thanks I have the same symptom clutch slip at high RPM, I'll check for the metallic rattle. They are genuine LUK parts from MVC, I will order both anyway as I'm saving on the labour by fitting it myself and plan on keeping the car for the foreseeable:-)

Max

Mine was slipping at peak torque at lower RPM but if you're changing the clutch anyway it's immaterial whether the DMF is pied or not. Good on you, part of me wanted to take on the challenge of doing it myself but didn't fancy it on axle stands on the driveway.

[maxamplitude10]

Yeah i wouldn't fancy it on axle stands, I'm fortunate to have a friend who owns a garage so have use of the ramp on Friday evenings!!!!

I've decided to change both the clutch and DMF now thanks for the advice:-)

Max

[brian_badonde]

I'm jealous, that's the dream! Good luck.