All Things Mk5 > Members Rides
Very budget track build
pudding:
Yeah you could bin off the entire HVAC system, that's a probably a hefty chunk of weight. Sod it, delete the whole dash and just gaffer tape the clocks to the bulkhead :grin:
Have you got a target weight in mind? What do they weigh as standard? 1350ish kg?
Clarkj93:
--- Quote from: Pudding on September 01, 2023, 09:21:45 pm ---Yeah you could bin off the entire HVAC system, that's a probably a hefty chunk of weight. Sod it, delete the whole dash and just gaffer tape the clocks to the bulkhead :grin:
Have you got a target weight in mind? What do they weigh as standard? 1350ish kg?
--- End quote ---
yeah it looks it, I've seen rainex stuff to stop all windows from fogging up so don't really need a heater, can always just plug the coolant heater pipes up or just leave that entire coolant heater core in place anyway as its not doing anything anyway and I could possibly see lower temps keeping it in place and even ducting it outwards. The blower is still quite strong without AC so could be useful except on really humid days so I'll have to decide if the weight & weight distribution is worth it or not. Having done a lot of sim racing I have found that times are far more consistent when I'm super cool rather than when I'm getting warm as the overworked PC does heat up a room like an electric fire so if its saving 5kg over myself being more focused, faster & safer then its an easy decision to make!
hahaha why not go further? just draw the speedo on the windscreen with black marker and delete all the dials altogether :grin:
Ummm I got told it was about 1405/1410 last year with about 3/8th of a tank of fuel and no spare tyre in rear (not sure if that includes my own personal weight in the drivers seat or not though of 75kg), So if that is correct then I've weighed everything I've taken out and it should be 1260kg right now. There is a little bit more to come out in terms of unused brackets/trim/wiring etc. The cage will add about 40 or so and I plan to gut and add perspex windows in the doors which is worth about 30kg off the front end which is great so at 1250 with a cage I'd be happy. There is a lot more than can come out but it gets expensive then... forged wheels, light weight calipers/floating discs, carbon or fibreglass panels, light weight custom T45 crash bars, perspex all around etc.
Clarkj93:
Not done much lately, getting married Sunday :phew: so even I've struggled to escape to the golf :grin:
So the heat shield to cover the bulkhead is a pain to remove and re-install so I just cut the thing up and bent some embossed stuff over it instead. I had to import this stuff from China as could not find anyone in UK who would sell it for a reasonable price which I thought was super strange as its quite a common material in modern cars :stupid:
Added a little spare stuff over the IAT sensor, I heard before that they can heat soak and read higher temps because of it than the actual air that is in the intake, when I get around to it I'll see if I can put that theory to the test:
Now on 6 inch 550 pound spring up front (roughly 10kg/mm), not test driven yet but I'm pretty sure after so many calculations that we'll end up with a just a stiffer linear setup and the rebound should still be OK with this spring. Using a 7 inch 450 on rear which is the same sort of thing, linear and a little stiffer.
Bought a cheap little camber guage, you have to calibrate it everytime you use it and it does un-calibrate itself which just a single violent shake so got to be very careful using it but I just wanted to see how much camber I was roughly getting with the top mounts and if I could adjust them to still hit my target of -3.5 up front but with a bit more castor by rotating the top mount to move the strut rearwards. But.... when setting the camber at max both sides on the front it showed 2 degrees on the left and 5 degrees on the right? I think possibly the floor was not perfectly level (it was by eye though) and the subframe might be in some really weird position so I'm just going to try and get the subframe in a happy position for now and set the front camber to -3.5 via a trusted shop and if there is plenty of room left in the camber aligning area then I'll know next time I can add more castor.
Some pics of the bumper trim, like a minute amount less drag and I'm usually not one for the aesthetics and more about function over everything else but I think its looks cool in person more than anything :grin:
pudding:
--- Quote from: Clarkj93 on September 01, 2023, 10:01:42 pm ---
--- Quote from: Pudding on September 01, 2023, 09:21:45 pm ---Yeah you could bin off the entire HVAC system, that's a probably a hefty chunk of weight. Sod it, delete the whole dash and just gaffer tape the clocks to the bulkhead :grin:
Have you got a target weight in mind? What do they weigh as standard? 1350ish kg?
--- End quote ---
yeah it looks it, I've seen rainex stuff to stop all windows from fogging up so don't really need a heater, can always just plug the coolant heater pipes up or just leave that entire coolant heater core in place anyway as its not doing anything anyway and I could possibly see lower temps keeping it in place and even ducting it outwards. The blower is still quite strong without AC so could be useful except on really humid days so I'll have to decide if the weight & weight distribution is worth it or not. Having done a lot of sim racing I have found that times are far more consistent when I'm super cool rather than when I'm getting warm as the overworked PC does heat up a room like an electric fire so if its saving 5kg over myself being more focused, faster & safer then its an easy decision to make!
hahaha why not go further? just draw the speedo on the windscreen with black marker and delete all the dials altogether :grin:
Ummm I got told it was about 1405/1410 last year with about 3/8th of a tank of fuel and no spare tyre in rear (not sure if that includes my own personal weight in the drivers seat or not though of 75kg), So if that is correct then I've weighed everything I've taken out and it should be 1260kg right now. There is a little bit more to come out in terms of unused brackets/trim/wiring etc. The cage will add about 40 or so and I plan to gut and add perspex windows in the doors which is worth about 30kg off the front end which is great so at 1250 with a cage I'd be happy. There is a lot more than can come out but it gets expensive then... forged wheels, light weight calipers/floating discs, carbon or fibreglass panels, light weight custom T45 crash bars, perspex all around etc.
--- End quote ---
Yeah the Rainex anti-fog stuff works well. I used a 180 degree plumbing elbow on an old Golf years ago to bypass the heater core when it failed, which would work. You need to do that rather than plugging the circuit as you could run into engine overheating issues otherwise :grin:
Yeah you don't want to cook inside the car and have your lap times suffer as a result :grin:
Not sure that would pass inspection :grin: Although I don't know if a speedo is a requirement on track?
Ah, heavier than I thought! Is there a public weigh bridge near you? Some of them are OK with you getting out of it when it's weighed, but some aren't for 'safety reasons' :grin:
1250 is pretty good. I'm not sure all that expensive stuff would reduce times enough to justify the cost. Probably cheaper to turn the boost up!
pudding:
--- Quote from: Clarkj93 on September 01, 2023, 11:19:22 pm ---Not done much lately, getting married Sunday :phew: so even I've struggled to escape to the golf :grin:
So the heat shield to cover the bulkhead is a pain to remove and re-install so I just cut the thing up and bent some embossed stuff over it instead. I had to import this stuff from China as could not find anyone in UK who would sell it for a reasonable price which I thought was super strange as its quite a common material in modern cars :stupid:
Added a little spare stuff over the IAT sensor, I heard before that they can heat soak and read higher temps because of it than the actual air that is in the intake, when I get around to it I'll see if I can put that theory to the test:
Now on 6 inch 550 pound spring up front (roughly 10kg/mm), not test driven yet but I'm pretty sure after so many calculations that we'll end up with a just a stiffer linear setup and the rebound should still be OK with this spring. Using a 7 inch 450 on rear which is the same sort of thing, linear and a little stiffer.
Bought a cheap little camber guage, you have to calibrate it everytime you use it and it does un-calibrate itself which just a single violent shake so got to be very careful using it but I just wanted to see how much camber I was roughly getting with the top mounts and if I could adjust them to still hit my target of -3.5 up front but with a bit more castor by rotating the top mount to move the strut rearwards. But.... when setting the camber at max both sides on the front it showed 2 degrees on the left and 5 degrees on the right? I think possibly the floor was not perfectly level (it was by eye though) and the subframe might be in some really weird position so I'm just going to try and get the subframe in a happy position for now and set the front camber to -3.5 via a trusted shop and if there is plenty of room left in the camber aligning area then I'll know next time I can add more castor.
Some pics of the bumper trim, like a minute amount less drag and I'm usually not one for the aesthetics and more about function over everything else but I think its looks cool in person more than anything :grin:
--- End quote ---
Ah good for you mate and best wishes for the day :happy2: Not something I've ever fancied doing tbh, much to my girlfriend's disgust :grin:
Yeah that stuff costs a fortune over here for some reason. It's just stamped aluminium sheet :stupid:
The intake sensor does indeed heat soak because of where it is, but on the move it sorts itself out quickly. It's just at idle sitting in traffic it gives a high reading. If you have VCDS running, you will see it drop right down if you crack the throttle open to get some fresh air through it. More importantly, the reading isn't the intercooler temp....it's just the heat of being right next to the cylinder head and low airflow when the throttle is closed.
Interested to hear how the stiffer springs work out. 400lb front and 350/400 rear is fairy common on most coilovers as a starting point, so 550 isn't massively stiffer. A lot of folk run the same stiffness front and rear because the rear springs being inboard behave differently.....aka 'motion ratio' but it's all good experimenting :happy2: Are your dampers up to that level of extra stiffness? I fitted stiffer Eibachs to my Ohlins and it was a bit too bouncy for my tastes as the dampers weren't up to it, even at max stiffness. Stiffer springs keep the car flatter in the corners though, so you don't need massive ARBs.
Have you got a deadset kit fitted to your subframe? That usually helps iron out camber discrepancies. Most of them have more camber on one side from the factory! Mine was stock -0.55 on one side, and -1.2 on the other side on it's standard suspension. Shoddy! Even with SuperPro ball joints, the best I could achieve was -1.2 and -1.5. One BJ was fully in and other fully out to get that. They're not the best cars for alignment! So long as the toe and caster are the same, it doesn't really matter too much.
The rear end looks pretty cool actually :happy2:
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