All Things Mk5 > Members Rides

Very budget track build

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Clarkj93:
Thanks @rex mate, that's really helpful :happy2:

Clarkj93:
Been busy moving so neglected the build a bit, back to it though! Reality is looking like it won't be ready for another track day maybe until the end of year/next year annoyingly due to the unforseen massive outgoings of a first home purchase.

Current list of things to do until she's track ready again is:
- Sort out surface rust on sills and bent/slightly rusty jacking points
- Install bucket seat and subframe
- Install stud and nut conversion
- Install coilovers and drop links (bc racing br I'm thinking), uprated top mounts and dog bone insert
- remove all dust shields for cooling
- change Cam follower
- oil/ air filter and brake fluid change
- fix misfire on Cylinder 1 (fuel injector seems most likely!)
- alignment ( maybe corner weighting? Not sure whether to figure out the height that's ideal first via trial and error and also the rake to find a balance I like first rather than pay 200/250 for corner weighting only to have to sort it again a month or 2 later because I've adjusted the height or rake?)

As per recent posts I ended up just routing the ducting to the wheel arch for better air flow, done a fair few miles on the road without front dust shields and no issues. Easy Install just cut a hole in the arch liner and get some inlets and outlets, drill holes in them so you can zip tie to them to the arch liner and rhe front grilles.







Ignore that extra random hole! Will re route them go via the fogs at some point and do a fog light delete for ease of access and disassembling and also because it allows me to add another duct to a cold air induction kit via the fog grille in future!

Bought some silicone hoses to replace the badly fitting and oil weeping boost pipes:



Buggers to get on mind, I gave up in 30 degree heat so will have to try again soon.

N80 valve change for a suspected evap fault along with silicone charcoal cannister hoses:



Currently examing the rust on the sills and jack points, seems to be all surface rust though which is good so plan is to straighten the damaged under body seam, cut off loose seam sealer and paint in por-15 Anti rust paint. I may give the sills and behind wheel arch area a gentle sanding first to get most of rust off and then apply por-15 followed by a rattle can touch up in the oem colour, pretty ghetto job but as long as its not rusting I'm happy.









I've seen pics of people having rust issues due to the side skirts Letting moisture in and it sitting there forever, I've taken mine off and tempted to just fills these screw holes with something and go side-skirtless as they're a pain to take on and off and just cause issues anyway... need to mull that one over



Also anyone know what this silver box is on drivers side behind wing?




bobby_fodge:
isn't the horn in there?

Clarkj93:

--- Quote from: bobby_fodge on August 03, 2021, 09:24:03 pm ---isn't the horn in there?

--- End quote ---

Well spotted. Forget to mention that if you remove the horn, you can beat the top of it pretty easily until its flat, this will allow you to rotate it to a position you are happy with and then tighten it up.

Not the best picture, but simple enough and easy to execute:



Shoduchi:
The silver box is the alarm horn. It fails frequently with age.

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