All Things Mk5 > Members Rides
Very budget track build
Clarkj93:
Sorry chaps didn't realise you all commented. Thanks for all the bits of info and encouragement!!
We could all talk coilovers forever and never decide haha.
Not much to update yet as needed the car for a few trips, thankfully I can retire it again now for a while and can start some work.
Added a square duct where the passenger side fog light used to be as an air inlet to the intake (which may or may not do anything)
Had to do a fog light delete then on the drivers side as well then. Pretty proud that I used the bottom of a tin that I was about to throw in the rubbish and just used a permanent marker to paint it black, then cable tied it in place. Recycling level = master.
So yeah couldn't bare fiddling with the side skirts after a failed first attempt. Instead got a decal removed rubber wheel drill bit and took all the residue tape off then stuck in some screws with a washer and simply painted them red with a touch up pen. Looks okay now. I got some jack stickers to go on as there is no longer any arrow markings to the jack points now the skirts are gone. This is primarily for tyre shops who don't always take car when jacking up the car...
Added some forge motorsport gold tape to the intake.
I lost the locking wheel nut after driving off with it still in, very annoying. However I realised a spline bit works just as well... made me laugh as its not the best anti theft wheel nut if that's possible!
Hopefully things will get more interesting now I can crack on with a few bigger jobs!
Clarkj93:
Found an exhaust leak by the middle silence welds so thought it was time for some exhaust work...
Carried out the pre cat delete...
New non-res miltek exhaust
Not taken it out yet but happy with the miltek so far, welds look fantastic to a noob, sounds oem on idle and can hear a louder rasp up to about 3k, not tested it further than that to try and not piss off the neighbours.
Annoyingly one of the clamps that links to the original downpipe is not quite the right size. Can only getting it tight by tightening it to the point the bolt is bent. Looks worse in real life than the pics.This is the 2nd bolt after the 1st snapped and its still leaking, albeit very minor as can only detect it via a bit of water in a spray bottle. Got another brand of clamp in the post so will give it another go with that.
As I lost the locking wheel nut thought it was a good time to get the studs installed
Booked into VW for cambelt late December. Next il change the oil and fix that very minor exhaust leak and all ready for rtech stage 1 in Jan :)! If I didn't have to budget for bushes and coilovers and a bucket seat, tyres etc. then would love to just go ko4 but sods law I guess, well over 300bhp is great until you cannot stop or get around bends!
LC5F:
--- Quote from: Clarkj93 on November 18, 2021, 10:05:29 pm ---Annoyingly one of the clamps that links to the original downpipe is not quite the right size. Can only getting it tight by tightening it to the point the bolt is bent. Looks worse in real life than the pics.This is the 2nd bolt after the 1st snapped and its still leaking, albeit very minor as can only detect it via a bit of water in a spray bottle. Got another brand of clamp in the post so will give it another go with that.
--- End quote ---
Those clamps are a lot nicer than the ones Cobra give with their exhausts - those are more like scaffolding clamps - if the replacement doesn't work out, Look at Mikalor W4 all stainless clamps - nice and wide plus they really clamp solid.
--- Quote from: Clarkj93 on November 18, 2021, 10:05:29 pm ---Booked into VW for cambelt late December.
--- End quote ---
This contradicts the thread title!
How much in "track days" are they going to charge?
With older cars, dealers tend to give them to the inexperienced staff to learn on, add that to Xmas/hangovers/distraction it's not a great recipe.
It's a straight forward job - have you considered doing it yourself?
Clarkj93:
--- Quote from: Clarkj93 on November 18, 2021, 10:05:29 pm ---This contradicts the thread title!
How much in "track days" are they going to charge?
With older cars, dealers tend to give them to the inexperienced staff to learn on, add that to Xmas/hangovers/distraction it's not a great recipe.
It's a straight forward job - have you considered doing it yourself?
--- End quote ---
Do you know what I was going to ask what people thought but thought I'd see if anyone confirmed my suspicions that it might not be a good idea...the only other places I've found either want fortune to do it or are miles away and don't fancy taking a day off to sit in someone's garage drinking coffee for 4 hours for a poxy cambelt.
The idea of doing it myself did occur but I'm scared :grin: I did see the cambelt and waterpump kit up for 320 quid at aks tuning the other day and was like well if just the kit Costs that much... maybe it's cheaper from VW I've not checked.
You've confirmed my doubts anyway so will cancel at VW.
LC5F:
I used INA kit, the stuff I replaced was genuine and everything but the pump & belt were marked INA - I got my kit off ebay it was only £101.
Best tip I leant years ago is to get a pint pen, mark the timing marks on the cover, the pulleys and also the old belt, then copy the belt markings to the new belt - old belt stretches, so count teeth to be 100% sure - once the belt is on slowly turn the engine over by hand 2 full rotations to confirm cam and crank timings line up - note the crank is usually very slightly out.
Hardest parts are getting the engine mount & timing cover off/on the engine - the 2 timing cover bolt at the bottom of the cylinder head are tricky to remove/install - make sure you have a good selection of T30 bits
When I did mine, it did turn into a saga, but with both the timing belt slipped and cam chain spun - it was a worst case with everything out - yours being a running engine it should just be swapping new for old.
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