Door Lock Mechanisms (again I guess) - Ebay vs VAG

[astyy]

Hi guys,  My first post, have owned my MK5 GTI from new 130,000 driven.

Like a lot of owners it seems I've had problems with faulty door lock mechs - the current symptom being passenger door never locks, it feels/sounds like it does, but alarm still sets and it detects the door open/shut.  Having replaced passenger door with an Ebay version a few years ago it started failing again.  I purchased another Ebay replacement from the same seller and unfortunately it failed to unlock when fitted (fortunately that was during testing with door skin still off so recoverable).

This prompted me to explore the internals as I still had the initial VAG unit removed.  Unsurprisingly the Ebay version is cheaply constructed, including missing door handle tensioning spring (could have reused from previous), recess inadequate for door pillar hook, some plastic parts vs metal on VAG, no gasket between shells of electrical part.  My biggest surprise and question is that the VAG unit has 2 DC motors (1 large, 1 small) and associated circuitry whilst the Ebay has only the single larger one - I don't know what the smaller motor does or if this is even a problem?

I'm not keen on fitting another Ebay version but the VAG dealer is charging £180 for their replacement.  Is there a better quality middle ground option?

Thanks for any advice can post pics of the internals if interested.

[astyy]

I looked at the VW door lock internals in more detail today.  The small DC motor can only be activated when the large DC motor is in the "door locked" position, it then locks the large DC motor shaft in the "door locked" position, in turn this means the large red knob (outside the mech) is locked in position too which prevents the internal handle from unlocking the door (from inside).

I guess this is some kind of dead locking to stop the doors being opened from the inside - seems strange the Ebay version doesn't have the small DC motor and parts to support this feature at all

I'm wondering if the Esen SKV Germany version are a more reliable option.

[Rado16v]

Our passenger side failed at abour 55k miles, I didn't want to chance it and bought a genuine  replacemnt from TPS at £120 if memory serves. This was about 4 years ago.

Try calling TPS or some of the seller on eBay who sell genuine vag parts. Personally, I wouldn't skimp on a part such as this. It's not something you want to fail on a frequent basis. Having said that,  the genuine part ain't exactly indestructible.

[astyy]

Thanks for the reply rado16v I hadn't heard of TPS. 

Once I split my original VW unit open there is actually very little inside to go wrong so frustrating I can't spot the problem as the switches, motors, traces, joints test ok.  I'm sure it's the mech though as a replacement fixed the first VW unit failure (passenger door not opening with engine running) which is itself 3 years on now failing with different symptoms (door not locking!).

There are a lot of Ebay listings for what I assume are Chinese copies so I wonder how many of these are missing the dead lock components.

[ianxxx]

My adventures may be of interest. We have a 2006 Golf GT TDI 4-Motion, which my wife normally drives.
The right rear door frequently wouldn’t unlock. Then it would never unlock. Then one glorious moment it unlocked. I bought a cheap ebay lock and fitted it and was proud. I tested it and all was good. Next day my wife went to the car for the first time and the door wouldn’t open. From February until now it never opened. Bought exactly matching door from breakers yard. A few days ago wife said driver’s door won’t open. Fortunately the door opened on the key. My investigation showed driver’s door problem was due broken wire(s) on wiring harness between car body and door.  I repaired this with a soldered join and use of protective tape. I hoped this might explain the rear door but found no wiring fault. So how to open the door? Because I had a complete ‘spare’ door I took it apart and noted what needed doing to remove the deadlock application. A plastic component had to be moved rearwards, so I cut a 2 inch hole in the outer skin. My view was still obscured by the door lock yellow plastic cover. I cut that away and could then see the red plastic piece that had to be moved. It was difficult, like key-hole surgery but I moved it and opened the door.
The car is now ‘on the road again with the outer skin and door lock (Genuine VW part) from the breakers yard door with everything working perfectly. But will it last?
Do any members think I could have opened the door by any other way, for instance could I have removed the inner panels with the door closed?

[Saintsteve]

Check the wiring loom that’s inside the rubber boot between door and pillar as the wiring is too tight and you’ll proberly find the wiring is the cause of your issues.
The locking feed cable is the smallest cable and snaps inside the boot and your get the fault your describing,I found that fault on my Ed30 and now have a spare door mech that I purchased thinking that was the fault

[astyy]

I worked on this today.  First, removed the door outerskin so I could pull the rubber boot into the door to better inspect the door to pillar loom where it kinks.  All looked very good indeed, I guess being the passenger door it receives less wear and tear (not the story on the tailgate loom for another thread).

The ebay lock mech currently fitted couldn't even be manually locked using the red plastic knob which wasn't activating smoothly and travelling fully.  Upon removal I split the mech open and there appeared to be a peg broken on the follower of one of the spiral shafts.  Interestingly, this Ebay one did have the two DC motors per VAG version unlike the recent Eby one I returned.  These Chinese clones are very cheaply made inside compared to VAG original.

I still had my original VAG unit which I believed to be faulty,  I've since split this open, tested the motors, joints and tracks which all seemed good.  I decided to refit this and so far is working, locking, setting the alarm, locking when drive away etc.

So I've made progress but don't understand the cause of the original problem that made me replace the VAG unit a few years ago, if memory serves it wouldn't open from inside with engine running.

Removing the doorskin on 3 door car is very tight at the bottom front, I must be missing a trick as struggle to remove then refit it with door in fully open position.

[GVK]

Any tips for getting the door open when it's locked (3dr car)?

I understand the door skin needs to be removed to fit the lock but can't get door open at the min!

[MIJ_JAGGER]

Any tips for getting the door open when it's locked (3dr car)?

I understand the door skin needs to be removed to fit the lock but can't get door open at the min!

Done this on a mates car when his drivers side wouldn’t open
I yanked the door cover off from the top, needs a good pull, pulled it just enough to squeeze my hand in and pull the wire that attaches to the door handle.

That is if you can get into the car first...

[Octoparrot]

Any tips for getting the door open when it's locked (3dr car)?

I understand the door skin needs to be removed to fit the lock but can't get door open at the min!

Try thumping the outside of the door around the lock with the side of your fist whilst pressing the unlock button 8your key fob.

[GVK]

Ta for tips guys, I can get into driver's side atm, will try suggestions.

[raciohurg]

What a known situation with the same car. Indeed many who have MK5 GTI have the same problem. I hate! The option to order from eBay and do all this on your own was not the best decision. It didn't even cross my mind to order from eBay. I didn't want to complicate my life, and from the beginning, I turned to some specialists who helped me. I wanted everything from the first attempt to be qualitative and not to reencounter this problem. And so it is. I haven't had any issues since they fixed me. It is more expensive than ordering on eBay but higher quality. I recommend you do the same now.






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[DBXdarkangel]