Purchasing Mk 5 Golf GTI

[CGRacing]

I am looking for some advice! I am going to be a viewing a Mk5 GTI soon and want to know what things to look out for! I have been doing lots of research and am aware of the common faults that take place.

I know the PCV valve needs to be checked (this can be done by trying to undo the oil filler cap with the engine running). I will check the wheel arches for excessive rusting and the lower control arms for the same. I will look for evidence that the cam follower has been replaced (checking paperwork and such), I will ensure the car starts and warms up correctly without cooling once driven to ensure the thermostat is working correctly. I know the diverter valve can fail which would be indicated by a sluggish driving experience.

The Car is a 2005 Mk5 GTI in Laser Blue, it currently has 56,000 miles on the clock and looks to be in good condition with only 2 owners from new. It is listed at £7000 which I think is a tiny bit steep for a 16 year old car however I know the bushing on the front control arms need replacing and the front tires are on their way out which I will try to use as a bargaining tool. (I know this through an MOT history check)

Thank you for any advice!

[ROH ECHT]

The wheel arch rust inspection will require arch liner removal. The worst spot is forward of the rear arch...underneath the liner.
Might want to know if it is tuned.
Cam follower(CF) lifespan varies. Tuning sets a target rail pressure higher than stock, oil type/quality, and how often driven at near full throttle all wear it faster. Might be best to just give it a new CF if not shown being done, and then learn how long yours lasts.
If it is DSG...it required a service at 40k miles.
Timing belt (usually includes water pump and pulleys) should've been done in 2015 (10 years)...even though it is listed to be done at 120k miles.

[CGRacing]

Appreciate the reply sounds like all the common things to be checked then!

[MKMike]

I'd strongly recommended taking it to a highly rated VAG specialist near you to carry out a health check. Mine cost 42 quid but it's money well spent as there are some issues I'd struggle to find without a ramp. I had cracked springs, instead of replacing them the previous owner put concrete-like solution into the cracks and painted them. I had an oil leak, a gasket needed to be changed. In the engine, my intake pipe was cracked. Had a missing headlight level sensor.

If yours comes with a sunroof I'd test that it closes correctly, mines at a specialist now as it's faulty. Check all the door handles and boot latch, they're not big issues but are annoying. 

[brian_badonde]

Rust. Check for rust everywhere, the garage I bought mine from had painted over several spots and within 6 months it had started coming through - rear quarter panels where they meet the bumper, door skins at the bottom edges, wings as folk have mentioned and finally the boot lid under the VW logo. Fixing it properly is seriously expensive (in my case more than the value of the car). The underbody of mine also looks like it was pulled from the titanic, so not a bad shout getting a vw specialist to take a look on the ramps too as someone suggested.

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[CalMac]

I think that’s a good price considering the mileage, that sounds to me about the going rate these days. I bought mine 6 months ago and I really wish I paid more attention to all springs.

If they haven’t been changed before, they are probably gonna be cracked or on the verge of. Look if the  spring coating is perished and the spring is rusty, stick your phone camera in for an easy look. Or even grab the spring and give it a tug

My back springs went first then immediately after my front ones went too about 3 months after buying.

Test everything on the interior, AC should be nice and chilly promptly after starting perhaps after a minute. Test window washers and optional headlight washers. The driver window mechanism broke on mine while I was viewing it leaving it stuck open. The seller repaired that free of charge. Headliners sag around the sunglasses holder on the roof.

The monza wheels, more so the 17s do a decent job of hiding the brakes so inspect them and see if they need doing, check the condition of the wheels, is the paint peeling? more bargaining power 

Make sure you can take it for a test drive, the car should come into boost smoothly after about 2.5k and continue to pull strongly, gears should engage confidently but it’s not the smoothest thing all the time. The clutch should be fine on 56k but definately get a good feel for it and if it’s biting too high. I don’t know a whole lot about dsg except for they require servicing at 40k intervals and get jerky when they don’t.

If you’re REALLY picky, the headlights often yellow over and go coarse but you can sort this yourself for very little money.

I personally am having a problem with algae which keeps coming back but I am tackling it a bit at a time. Not sure if that’s just mine?

The comments above are all good advice. Rust can be a pain on these cars.

I was very nervous researching this car before I bought mine as I had never owned a turbo car before but honestly my 5k miles I’ve done in 6 months have been flawless, really enjoying the car and if you have any more questions don’t be afraid to ask on here 

[CGRacing]

Massively appreciate the reply lots of thought and effort gone into it! I am a little nervous as it’s my first “performance” car I’m defo gonna take a close inspection of the car before I take it my heart is not completely taken by it so that’s a bonus because I’ll know if it’s a dog I have the power to walk away!