HPFP Part No. and Seized Schrader Value

[jonnyutah]

Hey - I decided to replace the cam follower on my high mileage 2007 DSG, I think its stock, but I have no idea how long its been since it was last replaced, if ever.  No loss of power or new engine noises (its kinda always sounded like a diesel anyway), but I'm driving to the Peaks soon so wanted peace of mind as I'm driving around the lanes (sensibly of course) 

I'm following a few posts on here that give really good guides on changing the cam follower, but I cannot get the schrader value off - it should be a 13mm wrench but its rounded, same with 12mm.  I've tried penetrating oil and a gripper tool, but its just chewed up the brass.  What are my best options to get this off??

I've also noticed that one of the Torx 30 bolts looks pretty smooth, which could be another bugger to remove.  Annoyingly its the bolt behind the schrader valve so I can't try and remove it yet.

I have a replacement schrader value and cam follower kit ready.  While I can drive it should I just take it to a garage to sort?!

If I do need a new HPFP, would this be a wise/cheap purchase? https://www.eurocarparts.com/p/pierburg-injection-pump-448440120

Any links to cheaper (but still good quality) parts would be appreciated 

Thanks guys! 

[breeze]

Is there any way you can get to the torrx, perhaps with some thin vice grips? I’d expect a garage to be able to get the bolt off.

What mileage is the car and has it been tuned? If the follower has worn through, you might have damage to the HPFP. That would need replacement.

To add: I’d rather be taking it to a garage than paying for a new HPFP.

[Numero9]

If the torx has rounded you can go another size or 2 up and hammer it in and carefully be able to remove it. You'll have to replace the bolt after removal, probably worth changing all of them.

As for the valve a really good set of molegrips should allow you to remove this, again you have to go with feel and if you feel the grips slipping stop and tighten another half turn and try again before rounding more.

[jonnyutah]

Thanks for the responses :)

My car has 157k, and I think its stock (only had a year).  I did find a receipt in the service history for a cam follower from January 2019 with 126k miles.

I decided to persist with doing it myself - I have plans to renovate a classic car at some point (years off having the time, cash, and, clearly, skills to do this) - and my friend will drive to the peaks, so pressure off!  I may also ride if the weather is good 

So....er.....yeah, I'm gonna be needing a new HPFP 

Tbh I knew I'll need one at some point anyway, as the current pump plug has just been glued by a previous owner/mechanic (photo attached).

Right now I've completely snapped off the Schrader valve, so obs its not driveable, but the nut part is still stuck.  As you can see from the 2nd photo, the brass just gets chewed up and the mole grips slip off - which is how I snapped the valve off.

Annoyingly I still cannot get to the T30 bolt with my current tools, so this may still be stuck also.  Any ideas how I can get the remainder of the Schrader valve/nut off?

Also, this HPFP is cheaper - https://www.autodoc.co.uk/topran/12925649 - will it fit my car? OEM Nos:

OEN 06F 127 025B — VW
OEN 06F 127 025F — VW
OEN 06F 127 025H — VW
OEN 06F 127 025J — VW
OEN 06F 127 025K — VW
OEN 06F 127 025L — VW
OEN 06F 127 025M — VW

[pudding]

Time for a new pump.  The thrust sensor on the top is damaged (common problem) and not available separately, and the drain/pressure test valve is fooked as well.

You should be able to wrestle the torx bolt out far enough with grips and just hacksaw the bolt head off and start over with a new bolt and pump 

I would get a genuine pump, which is made by Hitachi - https://www.akstuning.co.uk/shop/home/673-genuine-tfsi-high-pressure-fuel-pump-ea113-06f127025m.html

[ROH ECHT]

The thrust sensor on the top is damaged

This is just FYI...not intending to be a 'smarty pants'  ; on top is the rail pressure regulator valve or N276. The Thrust sensor or low fuel pressure sensor (G410), is on the side of the hpfp.

[Numero9]

If you're changing the punch just hacksaw off the brass which is in your way. You can always extract it later on a bench/vice.

That t30 doesn't look too badly mashed, carefull application of pressure should get it going slowly with a rachet. Sometimes the torx Allen keys are a bit better than bits for stuff like this. You could hammer in a t40 and get it out or hacksaw a slot and use a big flathead to get it moving the torque isn't that high.

For fuel pump id buy genuine if budget allows or the best you can afford. Don't really want to cheap out on fuel delivery.

[ald1717]

just replace the pump, £250 from vw i did mine a few months ago , dont worry about the nut for shrader valve, as long as the bleed nipple can still be pressed in to release the pressure your fine, cant remember if you get a shrader on a new pump but you have a new one there so keep it incase , but it doesnt come with the thrust sensor on the side, but you can swap it over, also keep the nut for the fuel outlet because the pump comes with the attachment for rubber hose not the metal line so will need the one from your old pump swapped over to work theres a small washer in there also keep that..
 

[jonnyutah]

Using the advice here I'm going to try and get the rest of the pump off today - avoiding the rain - every bolt, wheel nut, and fixture on this car has been a bugger to loosen, so this could take awhile!

I'll order a genuine pump, the difference in price between non-genuine and VAG HPFP isn't huge anyway.

I'll update - with photos - when I make progress 

Thanks all :)

[jonnyutah]

Its off! The torx bolts were actually ok, the one that's a little smooth/rusted was the tightest but came loose without problems. 

The main delay was taking the hose off, but that was just because its an awkward clip and the pliers kept slipping - then I remembered I have mole grips 

Attached are the photos - after all the effort I think everything looks OK (the cam follower looks really marked in the photos, but is smooth to the touch).

For the thrust sensor, I guess its the entire unit, so I remove the brass fitting from the HPFP - does anyone know the part number for the O ring?

For the HPFP, a site has this description for a genuine VAG part - as mine is a 57 plate, I guess it will fit as standard (I assume the old HPFP fittings were with the banjo bolt)?

"This is the latest revision of the 2.0 TFSI high pressure fuel pump. Standard factory internals. If you have an earlier car/pump, you may need to swap the brass fittings"

[ROH ECHT]

Blue o-ring pn: WHT005184

Cracked N276 valve, when it fails, requires a new HPFP. Because the N276 isn't found and sold separately.