Cam Shaft Adjuster Oil Seals

[RussH]

I'm planning on changing the 3 oil seals in the variable valve timing control module.
I've tried searching the forum, YouTube and Google but no luck in finding a "how to" guide. Maybe I'm just using the wrong key words or just being dumb:-)
Could someone point me in the right direction please?
Thanks

[OllieVRS]

I'm planning on changing the 3 oil seals in the variable valve timing control module.
I've tried searching the forum, YouTube and Google but no luck in finding a "how to" guide. Maybe I'm just using the wrong key words or just being dumb:-)
Could someone point me in the right direction please?
Thanks

If you're talking about the 3 plastic rings inside the cam chain housing, known as oil control rings, they're fairly simple [once you've taken the cam chain housing off]. They're plastic rings that can be pried off with a pick, as they have a break in them that allows them to be stretched apart slightly. You may have to break the old ones off if they're too brittle to be stretched.

Here's a video showing multiple jobs relating to timing, go to 17:02 to see him put an oil control ring on:

If you want a guide how to get the cam chain housing off, you can follow this guide: https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=106158.0


Here's my control rings, they were all intact. Note that they're in the cam chain housing (the cover of the cam chain) rather than inside the cam chain mechanism or VVT phaser. I also recommend replacing that cam chain housing gasket while you're in there.




Normally people investigate these when they have a problem with their idle RPMs, what is your reason for wanting to replace them? Or is it a preventative job?

[RussH]

Thanks for the great reply!
I'm trying to track down a top end rattle. Which I thought I was getting close to fixing. See below a copy and paste from a previous post.

"Well I've made some progress!!
Using measuring block 93. When it's cold (no noise) the spec. is 28 degrees KW. Actual is rock solid at 27.5 to 28KW.
Once it warms up the actual starts to move between 24 and 28degrees KW. As it drops to 24-25KW this corresponds directly with the noise.
So. Could this be the oil seals in the variable cam timing module? As the oil thins (with temperature) this causes the instability/variation between 24 and 28?"

I subsequently removed and cleaned the oil control solenoid which actually fixed it! But only for a short time. So I'm pretty convinced that it's something to do with the cam timing unit/oil supply. Hence my next step to replace the oil seals.

I've replaced the hpfp and cam follower.

[OllieVRS]

Thanks for the great reply!
I'm trying to track down a top end rattle. Which I thought I was getting close to fixing. See below a copy and paste from a previous post.

"Well I've made some progress!!
Using measuring block 93. When it's cold (no noise) the spec. is 28 degrees KW. Actual is rock solid at 27.5 to 28KW.
Once it warms up the actual starts to move between 24 and 28degrees KW. As it drops to 24-25KW this corresponds directly with the noise.
So. Could this be the oil seals in the variable cam timing module? As the oil thins (with temperature) this causes the instability/variation between 24 and 28?"

I subsequently removed and cleaned the oil control solenoid which actually fixed it! But only for a short time. So I'm pretty convinced that it's something to do with the cam timing unit/oil supply. Hence my next step to replace the oil seals.

I've replaced the hpfp and cam follower.

Those are the specs from Block 91, where it shows the spec. and act., which are volatile and change with RPMs. Block 93 is usually a static adjustment angle, that changes maybe once as the engine warms up.

What are you getting on Block 93? That should give you a good idea of the state of the cam chain. New is below 0 to -2KW, Used is -2 to -4KW, Overdue is -4 to -6KW. -6KW and above is the danger zone. Mine was a little noisy around -5/-6KW, so I replaced it as a precaution. And good thing I did because the tensioner's plastic guide had already started to disintegrate.

If your idle RPMs are stable I would have doubts to being the control rings, but I'm no expert, so don't take my word for it. Do you have any errors codes logged on VCDS?

[RussH]

Thanks again for the reply. I really appreciate your time! I have been chasing this, on and off, for ages now. It's spoiling a brilliant car (an unmolested 80k mile Edition 30).
Attached below are the VCDS results.
Cam chain seems fine. Rock solid at -2kw.
The noise is intermittent, when the engine is warm and only at idle. Lift the rev's to just over 1,000 and it disappears.
On measuring block 91 the calculated and actual values start off at 28. Then the actual starts to fluctuate between 24 and 28. As it drops to 24/25 the noise appears. It then recovers to 28 and the noise disappears.
So I'm now on a process of elimination. Oil seals first. Then maybe a new second hand control module. Then I'm lost!

[OllieVRS]

Yes Block 93 looks perfect, assuming the engine is fully up to temp. Unfortunately I don't have enough experience to say what the exact cause is, but as you said, oil control rings first, the inspect the more expensive stuff.

Your revs seem weirdly high, have you always idled at 800? Mine hovers between 720/760.

[RussH]

So I've been checking VCDS again and something has changed or I didn't notice it before.
After getting up to temperature 091 settled down with slight movement on actual 27.5 to 28.5 but the noise was still there.
But.
093 changed from -2 to 3. Yes positive 3!?
Should 093 alter with rev's? It doesn't move.
I'll stick with plan A of changing the seals but is this now looking like a failing valve timing control module?
Idle has always been around the 800 (I think) it has been mapped though. Note. I'm confident this  issue isn't related to the map as it was was done 7+yrs ago.

[ROH ECHT]

It could all be related to oil flow and containment throughout the VVT system.
Yes, always give it new oil containment rings when swapping the chain and tensioner.
Make sure the tensioner's oil inlet screen wasn't left behind; stuck to the head when you added the new tensioner. The cam phaser/adjuster can also be the cause due to internal wear. The oil flow from the sump may be the problem for having a restriction to oil flow somewhere. And remove and clean the N205's oil pickup screen from the lower lip of the chain cover.

N205 pickup screen:


Chain tensioner screen...meant to be on the tensioner, not stuck to the head:

[RussH]

Thanks for the reply and those pointers
I'll be sure to report back once I've got into the module and changed the seals.
Any thoughts on why 093 went from -2 to +3?

[pudding]

I had a very loud rattle on mine that was only apparent when hot.  Just off idle the noise kicked in, and stayed there until about 1700rpm and then went silent again. Quite embarrassing when crawling along in traffic.

After a year of trying this, trying that, I eventually traced it to the middle oil control ring that had broken.

Incredible such a small thing caused so much noise, but after a fresh set of oil control rings, problem solved    You can easily tell if you have this problem by simply unplugging the VVT solenoid and revving it up.  Silence = busted oil ring(s).

They are incredibly brittle, even when new, so you have to be careful when sliding the chain cover back on.

[RussH]

Fingers crossed that's the issue. The rings arrived today so hopefully I'll get them changed this week.
I'll let you all know the outcome.
Thanks for all your replies