Weird rattle! Passenger side. -6.0°KW Camshaft Block 93

[OllieVRS]

Just wanted to throw in a little side-by-side comparison that solidifies the plastic piece mystery, the notch on the bottom matches the broken off piece exactly. Any ideas why this would have spontaneously broken off in this place in particular? I don't think the chain had ever been changed, so I doubt it's from a botched repair job.

[ROH ECHT]

Looking at it, I can only think it has to do with the direction of force applied to that portion of the pad, albeit minimal force, and the mismatch of angles here;


There's been a noticeable number of pads breaking there in the exact spot.
Then the other additional factors one might think of: brittleness of pad material__time and heat cycles__any stress applied during the assembly of the unit...etc.

[G-olf]

looking at doing this job myself so reading the thread with interest.

Did you also replace the cambelt?
What make was the locking tool that was not up to the job?
Did you replace the 3 oil rings on the centre of the cover?

Thank you

[OllieVRS]

looking at doing this job myself so reading the thread with interest.

Did you also replace the cambelt?
What make was the locking tool that was not up to the job?
Did you replace the 3 oil rings on the centre of the cover?

Thank you

Hi G-olf,

This a pretty tough job, just fair warning. It's very easy to mess it up (as I did with the cam bolt). So only go ahead if you are comfortable with taking those risks, and are confident in your experience level. And you can hear you timing chain is rattling and/or is due based on a VCDS scan of Block 091 and 093.

That being said, I'll answer your questions:

I replaced the cambelt 2 years ago, it has no relation to the cam chain job as it's on the opposite side of the engine. So there's no benefit to doing it at the same time. Cambelt interval is 4 years/60k miles iirc.


The locking tool was a cheapo Chinese one of Amazon UK, I'm sure it will come up under different names as many retailers will brand it as their own. Here's what it looks like:



You can buy official ones from VW, T10252 (the locking tool) and T10020 (timing bar). Just the locking tool was 113 euro from VW, I didn't even bother getting a quote after that for the bar because I'm a stingy b*stard. In hindsight it would've made the job a lot easier.

Also for the VW polydrive bit, T40080, I'd recommend an OEM one as they're only 15 from VW. I bought a Draper one off Amazon, was pretty loose in the cam bolt, that may have contributed to me stripping the bolt. Avoid.


As for the oil control rings, mine were intact so I didn't replace them. I've never had any problems with a rough idle or misfires, but if you do you should replace them. It's a 'while you're in there' kinda job, but I wasn't bothered.


Top tip: If you don't want to disconnect the small coolant pipe that runs over the top of the cam chain housing, remove the VVT sensor from the cam chain housing for more wiggle room, which isn't mentioned in the cam chain guide. It's the thing with the plastic connector on top, held in with two T25s. And even with it out the cam chain cover will still probably be a tight removal, so careful when you're taking the cover off you don't break the end of the previously mentioned coolant pipes connector, which is what I did the first time I took it off. And be gentle putting the cam chain cover back on, so you don't break the control rings.

Good luck!

[G-olf]

Thanks for your help 

[ROH ECHT]

Thanks

Here's one of many diy vids. He does both the belt and chain, so you can skip to about midway for the chain. As said, it can be difficult when it comes to the cam adjuster bolt on the exhaust cam. A good number have stripped them and then needed to drill the bolt in order to use an extractor to remove the bolt.

[OllieVRS]

Thanks

Here's one of many diy vids. He does both the belt and chain, so you can skip to about midway for the chain. As said, it can be difficult when it comes to the cam adjuster bolt on the exhaust cam. A good number have stripped them and then needed to drill the bolt in order to use an extractor to remove the bolt.

Yep this combined with the cam chain guide on this forum is what I used when doing mine. That YouTube channel also has a video of him removing a stripped/rounded cam chain bolt, where he first drills it then bashes in a T60. I tried recreating his trick but I couldn't get the T60 bashed in "4-5mm" like he suggests, only 2mm. So of course the bit just slipped out 

Good video though, the way he shows the installation of the new chain is very easy to follow.

Keep in mind, in his video he's removed that top coolant line that runs over the cam chain housing, so he's got an easier job. I don't think he mentions it in the video.

[pudding]

13 hours, wow!

Mate, I drilled out 4 f'cked locking wheel bolts on my Bimmer in 1 hour 

How I hear you ask? Cheap cobalt drill bits from Machine Mart    Honestly, like a hot knife through butter.

Anyway, glad you got there and yes, your post KW results are fine and dandy 

I hate to keep harping on about it, but the reason the plastic guide fell to pieces is due to extended oil services and the worn chain slapping about, hammering on it.  These engines need 5K changes, max. 3K if you can afford it and/or can be arsed.  Plastic and rubber parts drenched in fuel saturated oil just degrades super fast and become mega brittle.  You will also want to replace the primary oil separator PCV tube as they snap like dry reeds if you just look at them the wrong way.

I could post a video where the chief engineer on the Nissan GTR project also recommends 3K oil changes, but I won't as it's boring 

Anyway, happy days, you did it and you did it without f'cking up the timing 

Now that you have addressed the common things, and well done on the piston oil jets by the way, you can keep on top of the maintenance and these things won't happen again 

[OllieVRS]

13 hours, wow!

Mate, I drilled out 4 f'cked locking wheel bolts on my Bimmer in 1 hour 

How I hear you ask? Cheap cobalt drill bits from Machine Mart    Honestly, like a hot knife through butter.

Anyway, glad you got there and yes, your post KW results are fine and dandy 

I hate to keep harping on about it, but the reason the plastic guide fell to pieces is due to extended oil services and the worn chain slapping about, hammering on it.  These engines need 5K changes, max. 3K if you can afford it and/or can be arsed.  Plastic and rubber parts drenched in fuel saturated oil just degrades super fast and become mega brittle.  You will also want to replace the primary oil separator PCV tube as they snap like dry reeds if you just look at them the wrong way.

I could post a video where the chief engineer on the Nissan GTR project also recommends 3K oil changes, but I won't as it's boring 

Anyway, happy days, you did it and you did it without f'cking up the timing 

Now that you have addressed the common things, and well done on the piston oil jets by the way, you can keep on top of the maintenance and these things won't happen again 

Great to hear from you as always Pudding. You really make me think I was drilling wrong since it took that long, but who knows, maybe VW cam bolts are made of a much tougher material than Bimmer wheel bolts 

I used 3 'professional grade' Bosch Straight Shank 12mm bits and all three of them went blunt very quickly, probably 3mm of drilling done between them combined. Used a generic Stanley Hss Crownpoint 12mm bit and it was an absolute weapon, getting 5mm in alone without dulling. Weirdly the same situation as yours, cheap works best.

Yep, been doing 3k mile or less (forced oil changes when the sump has to be dropped, haha) oil changes since I bought her, 12k miles in now. Because of the oil pressure shenanigans with this car I've probably at least 10 oil changes.

Which PCV tube are you talking about? I've already been thinking of replacing the short one that runs to the top of the intake manifold from the PCV as it looks like it's weeping oil.

Currently as it stands, every single possible item on this engine has been serviced. It can literally only fail now if the engine bearings spontaneously disintegrate. 

[pudding]

Given how easy the VVT bolt rounds out, I reckon it's the same swiss cheese grade steel as BMW wheel bolts 

Not sure what material the Bosch professionals are but Cobalt or Carbide drills are what you need for drilling steel 

If I'd used those brass coloured £20 for a set of 10 drills from B&Q, I'd have been there for hours and probably got through half a dozen bits, but 1 cobalt bit drilled out 4 bolts and it was still sharp at the end of the ordeal, can't grumble at that. These are what I used, but they were £40 when I bought them years ago.... inflation is a killer - https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/cht384-25pce-cobalt-steel-drill-bit-se/

It's the one that comes off the front PCV and disappears down under the intake manifold. It joins onto the oil filter housing.  A bit of a swine to get at but when I removed mine to inspect it, it fell to pieces in my hand and was almost completely blocked with baked carbon!  Well worth replacing even just for preventative maintenance.

it's getting there! Props to your perserverence and regular updates