What to do before a stage 1 remap?

[smilespergallon]

So I'm thinking of finally getting a stage 1 remap on my Edition 30. I've had the car for just over 10 years and it has done 135,000 faithful miles. I'm thinking it's time to get some more out of it while I can.

Anyway, here's the possibly relevant maintenance I've done to the car within the last year:

• Replaced Cam Follower (Genuine from AwesomeGTI, about 5,000 miles ago)
• Replaced PCV Valve (Genuine from AwesomeGTI)
• Replaced Diverter Valve (Genuine/Pierburg Rev D from AwesomeGTI)
• Relpaced Spark Plugs (NGK Iridium IX BKR7EIX, about 5,000 miles ago)
• Inlet Valve carbon clean (DIY job using picks, brushes, and carb cleaner)
• Injector cleaning (DIY job using carb cleaner and a 12V battery)
• Oil Pickup and Sump clean
• Fresh Oil (Fuchs TITAN GT1 PRO C3 XTL 5W-30, about 500 miles ago)
• New Oil Filter (500 miles ago), Fuel Filter and Air Filter (5,000 miles ago)

I've got a few main questions:

• Is there anything else I should look at doing in preparation for a stage 1 tune?
• I'm using 5W-30 oil. Should I be using 5W-40 instead (e.g. Quantum Platinum Plus)?
• I believe I'm still on the original MAF Sensor (16 years old). I've cleaned it and I have no reason to believe anything is wrong, but is it worth replacing anyway?

Thanks in advance for any tips and advice.

[Lewo]

Get yourself to Rtec. They have some info on what needs doing before a remap. Rev g for the DV I think and yes 5/40 oil.
I get millers when the have their 20% offer.

[OllieVRS]

Sounds like you've done a hell of a lot more maintenance than most guys that get stage 1 maps on GTIs that have double the mileage 

I'd say you're good to go, 5W40 is recommended for higher mileage cars cars but I wouldn't go dump your fresh oil in preparation for the map. Just get it changed to 5W40 next oil change. Maybe Rtec will tell you differently though, from what I hear they're the experts.

Only thing you should prepare yourself for is having 10% worse fuel economy 

And if you're still on the original clutch there's always a chance the remap will be too much for it and it will start to slip, but it's not something to worry about. Just means your clutch was on its way out anyway.

[GVK]

You'll wish you had it done years ago, even a st1 map really wakes up the Edition 30 with it's K04 turbo! Mine was about 310 bhp and was fast enough.

[mjmallia]

Check all the brakes also...........as you will want to stop 

[smilespergallon]

Thank you everyone, much appreciated.

And if you're still on the original clutch there's always a chance the remap will be too much for it and it will start to slip, but it's not something to worry about. Just means your clutch was on its way out anyway.

Yeah I was preparing for that as a possibility. Would be a good excuse to have a go at my first clutch change and upgrade to the TTRS clutch.

Check all the brakes also...........as you will want to stop 

Ha yeah. Brake pads and discs are in good order currently. Would it be worth looking at getting better calipers at some point? There seems to be a few options, and I'm not sure which ones to go for that will be the easiest to get my hands on (for a reasonable price).

[seiko]

I was in the same position looking for breaks for my ed30 . The standard brakes were not up to the job with revo stage one map. Found a set online of a 2014 Audi s3, including discs and pads for £300 .
Clutch will be next job. Had to reduce boost and timing due to clutch slip

[mjmallia]

Brakes from an R32 or S3 will be a big improvement over the standard GTI stuff (345mm front and 305mm ish vented rears)

I initially had just the fronts which made a massive improvement, then added the rears and that was another leap in improvement.......very responsive now, but fronts are heavier.

[pudding]

• I believe I'm still on the original MAF Sensor (16 years old). I've cleaned it and I have no reason to believe anything is wrong, but is it worth replacing anyway?

Nope. If it's still measuring correctly, leave it be 

If I had my ED30 again, I would stage 1 tune it and that's it.  Everything else left standard, but refreshed with new parts. All of it is plenty good enough unless you track the car.

[akbarirfan]

Audi S3 8V/ Golf R/ GTI MK7 PP 340mm brake discs with a 62mm single pot caliper up front! x 2

[smilespergallon]

So I got around to getting a stage 1 remap done at Badger5 the other day.

Before: 251hp
After: 312hp

The car is stock (aside from a 3" cat back exhaust), so I'm suprised it had 251hp considering the car is 16 years old and an Edition 30 is only supposed to be 230hp out of the factory. But I'm not going to complain.

The car is much more powerful than I expected it would be after the remap.

On the way home I thought I'd stretch its legs a little and started putting my foot down in 3rd and 4th gear to see what the car could now do. I actually thought there was a problem at first, because the car would momentarily lose acceleration when accelerating hard. But I'm pretty sure it's just losing traction if I go too hard, which is something I've never experienced with the car before. I could never lose traction in higher gears no matter how hard I accelerated before the remap.

This thread helped to put my mind at ease: https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,110715.msg1069495.html

I'm happy with the remap. It's nice to still be able to drive it "normally" when I want to, but then have the power there when I want it. It feels like a different car.

I didn't get many pictures, so here's a summary of the day:

If I had my ED30 again, I would stage 1 tune it and that's it.  Everything else left standard, but refreshed with new parts. All of it is plenty good enough unless you track the car.

Thanks, that's what I'm going for.

Considering the car can struggle to put the power down after this stage 1 remap I don't think I'm going to need any more power than it has currently.

[pudding]

Ah good old Badger, glad he's still around 

If the engine is holding back in boost and the traction light isn't barking at you, you need HPFP internals. Go with the VIS stage 1. The stock HPFP is borderline at Stage 1.

Glad you're enjoying it    Stage 1 is spot on. Just the right amount of power and within the Turbo's comfort zone.  Stage 2 and above just turns the turbo into a big over sped hairdryer. Not worth the big jump in cost of the supporting hardware for the additional 30-40hp.

[smilespergallon]

If the engine is holding back in boost and the traction light isn't barking at you, you need HPFP internals. Go with the VIS stage 1. The stock HPFP is borderline at Stage 1.

Thank you so much. It does feel more like something is "cutting out", so not enough fuel makes sense. I just guessed at traction as I had no idea what else it could be.

Will look in to the VIS internals

[G-olf]

Nice result 

Is the clutch still holding up ok?
On another thread I see you recently replaced the  A/C condenser, did the Denso fit nicely without any problems lining up bolts or mounting points? Do you need any replacement seals when doing the job? Planning on doing the same with mine.
Cheers

[smilespergallon]

Nice result 

Is the clutch still holding up ok?
On another thread I see you recently replaced the  A/C condenser, did the Denso fit nicely without any problems lining up bolts or mounting points? Do you need any replacement seals when doing the job? Planning on doing the same with mine.
Cheers

Yes the clutch is holding up fine so far. I don't want to get too overconfident, but I've been putting my foot down pretty hard and there's been no sign of slipping. Although I've avoided trying accelerate at low revs in a high gear, as I hear that's when the most torque is being sent through the clutch.

We'll see how it goes.

And yes the Denso was absolutely fine. The air con pipes were a bit tricky, but I think that's just down to them being generally stiff, and probably would have been just as difficult with an OEM. I'd recommend getting a small 1/2lb rubber hammer to help bash them in.

Oh, and make sure the air con pipes aren't touching the serpentine belt after you've finished plumbing them in.

I think new o-rings for the air con pipes would be a good idea.