Clutch pedal sticking *solved*

[GTiWILL]

No worries boys. I’m glad it has helped a few people out 

[svvg]

 

[svvg]

Bit of a bump - the sticking clutch pedal has now returned.... seemed fine ever since October when I inserted a shim. Anyone have ideas? I’ve only down 6,000 miles and can’t believe it’s worn enough for another shim.

MNy thanks!

[pudding]

Slave & master cylinders OK?

If they are, probably the gearbox.

The 02Q manual box uses a plain roller bearing to support the input shaft, which is not designed for thrust loads. They rely on the shim to take up the slack, but the bearing itself can wear out and create its own additional play that no amount of shimming will take out. It’s a serious issue with heavy aftermarket clutches. Eventually the play gets so bad, the gears start rubbing each other, causing difficulties shifting and lots of noise.

It’s a crap bit of design really.  I’m surprised no one has come up with an 02J taper bearing conversion....which *is* designed to handle thrust loadings.

Went through all this myself and ended up fitting the box from a newer car. A 2011 Scirocco TSI. ‘KZS’ code....to keep the ratios near as dammit the same.

[SC0TTRS]

Sorry to resurrect this post, but I want to thank the OP for supplying this information 

I recently bought a 2005 mk5 GTi which had an intermittent sticky clutch peddle (slow to return).

Without this post, I probably be swapping out slave/master cylinders, clutch's and gearboxes trying to cure this problem.

But a shim kit for £28 completely resolved it. 

Thanks again.

 

[jussigti]

I have a 08' GTI, and the clutch started sticking, is 08' considered to be a newer GTI, or could this be a fix for my clutch sticking as well?
If not, any ideas what could cause the sticking.

[christii]

I have a 08' GTI, and the clutch started sticking, is 08' considered to be a newer GTI, or could this be a fix for my clutch sticking as well?
If not, any ideas what could cause the sticking.

Did you try this fix in the end? Mines a 2008 and has the sticky clutch. New master and slave cylinder fitted with no luck.

[svvg]

For what it’s worth - the shim kit fixed mine for a year or so - and when it returned it transpired to be because of ancient brake fluid in the clutch line. Perfect ever since a proper bleed through.

[grizzlydean]

Has anyone had this issue where its not the shims and the master cylinder is new alongside new fluid and a braided hose?

[OllieVRS]

Hey @svvg, apologies for reviving this ancient thread but I wondered if you could help with your experience.

I've had the exact same symptoms, discussed in my post here. In essence, sticking after right turns only, did a shim fix which lasted for 1000km, I've now tried to insert a second shim but there was no play and no room to get the second shim in.

I've checked for crankshaft end float (nothing that I could see), and there's no scratches visible on the flywheel with the sump removed.

I have had the brake fluid changed for racing fluid earlier this year but I assume the bleed didn't involve the clutch bleed valve (the clutch issue still appeared on track, and the pedal stuck for as much as 1.5 seconds after the hardest right turn), so from your experience would you say that's the next best thing to do?

Cheers 

[svvg]

Hi - I’d have a look at bleeding the clutch properly - if you’re the car then it sounds like you’re mechanically minded and able to do this all yourself - but to double check, you know that the brake fluid reservoir needs to be brimmed in order for fluid to route down the clutch line (the off take for the clutch line is at the very top of the fluid reservoir, and so won’t bleed/take on new fluid unless you brim the reservoir. You then need to lower the lever with a syringe (or use a straw with your finger over it - which takes bloody ages but can also work!). The bleed valve for the clutch line is also in the engine bay from memory. Mine snapped on first effort. So had to swap that over. Best of luck! If that doesn't solve it then it could be the clutch slave cylinder. Afraid that is a box off job as I think it's inside the bell housing….

[OllieVRS]

Hi - I’d have a look at bleeding the clutch properly - if you’re the car then it sounds like you’re mechanically minded and able to do this all yourself - but to double check, you know that the brake fluid reservoir needs to be brimmed in order for fluid to route down the clutch line (the off take for the clutch line is at the very top of the fluid reservoir, and so won’t bleed/take on new fluid unless you brim the reservoir. You then need to lower the lever with a syringe (or use a straw with your finger over it - which takes bloody ages but can also work!). The bleed valve for the clutch line is also in the engine bay from memory. Mine snapped on first effort. So had to swap that over. Best of luck! If that doesn't solve it then it could be the clutch slave cylinder. Afraid that is a box off job as I think it's inside the bell housing….

Got the clutch bled a few months ago, made sure with the mechanic that he brimmed the reservoir. Old clutch fluid was the blackest he'd ever seen.

Unfortunately it made no difference to the clutch feel, and here we are a few months later, and the clutch pedal stickiness is happening even more easily before.

Before it would happen after going around a roundabout briskly and occasionally at medium speed, now even going around it slowly results in the annoying phenomenon :(

Any suggestions what to investigate next?

[svvg]

Sorry to hear this mate. Nope. Out of ideas I’m afraid. The shims and then fluid change sorted it for me. Could be the clutch slave cylinder - but that’s inside the bell housing - so needs the gear box off I think

[vRSAlex]

Hi - I’d have a look at bleeding the clutch properly - if you’re the car then it sounds like you’re mechanically minded and able to do this all yourself - but to double check, you know that the brake fluid reservoir needs to be brimmed in order for fluid to route down the clutch line (the off take for the clutch line is at the very top of the fluid reservoir, and so won’t bleed/take on new fluid unless you brim the reservoir. You then need to lower the lever with a syringe (or use a straw with your finger over it - which takes bloody ages but can also work!). The bleed valve for the clutch line is also in the engine bay from memory. Mine snapped on first effort. So had to swap that over. Best of luck! If that doesn't solve it then it could be the clutch slave cylinder. Afraid that is a box off job as I think it's inside the bell housing….

Got the clutch bled a few months ago, made sure with the mechanic that he brimmed the reservoir. Old clutch fluid was the blackest he'd ever seen.

Unfortunately it made no difference to the clutch feel, and here we are a few months later, and the clutch pedal stickiness is happening even more easily before.

Before it would happen after going around a roundabout briskly and occasionally at medium speed, now even going around it slowly results in the annoying phenomenon :(

Any suggestions what to investigate next?

Sounds like the flywheel may be damaged now.  Every time the pedal sticks down the centre of the flywheel will move towards the gearbox.  If that happens enough then the bush in the flywheel can break apart.

[MandyFlibble]

Thanks for the info, this was useful.