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What does this engine clicking noise sound like to you?
smilespergallon:
--- Quote from: pudding on March 23, 2024, 10:46:55 am ---Unplug the VVT solenoid and see if the noise stops.
--- End quote ---
Thanks. I gave it a go, but noise is still there.
I've been browsing around and I think it might be the cam adjuster. These were the comments on this video:
"Hi, after my mechanic did the same job, the car came back with a rattle on the cam chain side that disappears after 2000rpm. I know the chain and tensioner was replaced, I don't know if the adjuster was replaced. Could it be the n205 sensor or the cam adjuster?"
"I found out the problem was the vvt cam adjuster wheel sprocket, the axx engine has metal sealing rings which wears the inner surface and was preventing sufficient oil reaching the adjuster, so replacing that cam adjuster sproket and using the new plastic revised rings resolved the issue."
--- Quote from: ZoliWorks on March 24, 2024, 09:39:57 am ---Mine wasn't making that noise specifically but it was clogged up quite a bit because the previous owner neglected the oil changes and cooked the engine slightly. My 93 block was reading anywhere from -2 to -6. In my case, it would regularly throw correlation fault codes and would be sluggish to respond. I could floor it, release, clutch in, shift gear, clutch out and it would still be pulling as if I never let off the throttle.
I ended up going full length, changing the chain, tensioner, VVT wheel and VVT control valve (all INA parts). The car had an instant change in how it accelerates or responds. You tap it and it shoots forward. 93 block is now between +5 and +2 and doing a 3rd to 5th gear pull and a VCDS log, the cam timing specified and actual is almost 1-to-1 with a 0.5 to max 1 degrees mismatch every now and then.
I would also check the cam follower just to be safe.
--- End quote ---
Yeah I'm thinking about changing the chain, tensioner, and cam adjuster (VVT wheel).
Where did you get the parts from? I'm looking to get INA too as I hear they're OEM. I found this kit on eBay, but I'm not sure if the cam adjuster is INA as well. Seems like the price might be too good to be true.
EDIT: This kit looks like it will do the job: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/155538839724
EDIT 2: The camshaft adjuster in the above kit isn't INA. I found this kit instead: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/385581070466
ZoliWorks:
Got mine from my local mechanic. He has some contacts with parts suppliers and can get me some decent prices. I'm gonna give aprox. prices due to conversion rates. Chain and tensioner were 60 euros, roller was 150, adjuster control valve was 25, vvt housing gasket was 5 and valve cover gasket was 10. If I were to go to a parts dealer other than my guy, I'd pay double.
I'd change the adjuster valve too and clean the camshaft position sensor along with the crankshaft sensor. Crank sensor is under the intake, to the left of the throttle body, next to the thermostat.
EDIT: You or whoever does the timing kit for you, keep the following in mind. The bolt that secures the VVT gear to the exhaust camshaft needs a special socket to unbolt (VW5220). It will most likely be stuck in place and will take quite some force to remove. The bolt itself is super easy to strip so make sure you don't let the socket wiggle and make sure it's all the way in. I've managed to strip my bolt and had to drill it then hammer an M10 key into it to finally get some grip and be able to remove it. I'm sure the camshaft didn't like it but I will be replacing them anyway later.
smilespergallon:
--- Quote from: ZoliWorks on March 24, 2024, 08:06:02 pm ---Got mine from my local mechanic. He has some contacts with parts suppliers and can get me some decent prices. I'm gonna give aprox. prices due to conversion rates. Chain and tensioner were 60 euros, roller was 150, adjuster control valve was 25, vvt housing gasket was 5 and valve cover gasket was 10. If I were to go to a parts dealer other than my guy, I'd pay double.
I'd change the adjuster valve too and clean the camshaft position sensor along with the crankshaft sensor. Crank sensor is under the intake, to the left of the throttle body, next to the thermostat.
EDIT: You or whoever does the timing kit for you, keep the following in mind. The bolt that secures the VVT gear to the exhaust camshaft needs a special socket to unbolt (VW5220). It will most likely be stuck in place and will take quite some force to remove. The bolt itself is super easy to strip so make sure you don't let the socket wiggle and make sure it's all the way in. I've managed to strip my bolt and had to drill it then hammer an M10 key into it to finally get some grip and be able to remove it. I'm sure the camshaft didn't like it but I will be replacing them anyway later.
--- End quote ---
Thanks. Bought the following items from eBay:
* INA Timing Chain, INA Tensioner, INA Adjuster, Bolt: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/385581070466
* Elring Timing Chain Cover Gasket: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/186098855406
* Oil Control Rings (not sure what manufacturer, couldn't find Elring): https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/333932667755
* INA Camshaft Adjuster Valve: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/335229150433
Also bought a cheap cam locking tool from eBay. I've seen these snap, so going to weld it up beforehand: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0BYNFM3KG/
So that's about £350 altogether for INA parts plus the tools I need.
I'm going to give it a go in a week or two when the parts arrive.
I'm fully expecting the camshaft adjuster bolt to give me some trouble. But as you say, drilling it out a little and hammering in an T60 torx seems like plan B:
Thanks again.
OllieVRS:
Good luck with it.
I did this last year, a few recommendations and notes from my experience:
By a genuine VW bit for the adjust bolt, as I bought a cheapo Laser one off Amazon, it didn't fit snuggly and stripped the bolt. Make sure there is a little oil as possible on the bolt when undoing it.
And not to scare you, but bashing in the T60 isn't guaranteed to work. For me it would just slip out. So I ended up spending two days and multiple drill bits drilling the b*stard out. Plan B may turn into Plan C :grin:
Welding up the cam locking tool is a great idea, as the legs on my Chinese Amazon one bent from all the torque, making it near-useless, as I didn't have a welder. I had to use vice grips with a cloth to secure the cam, which is risky as the cam itself is hollow so it can break. Also make sure to weld in such a way that the cam locking tool still fit, that your welds aren't in the way.
Otherwise you're good to go :happy2:
smilespergallon:
--- Quote from: OllieVRS on March 25, 2024, 12:13:13 pm ---Good luck with it.
I did this last year, a few recommendations and notes from my experience:
By a genuine VW bit for the adjust bolt, as I bought a cheapo Laser one off Amazon, it didn't fit snuggly and stripped the bolt. Make sure there is a little oil as possible on the bolt when undoing it.
And not to scare you, but bashing in the T60 isn't guaranteed to work. For me it would just slip out. So I ended up spending two days and multiple drill bits drilling the b*stard out. Plan B may turn into Plan C :grin:
Welding up the cam locking tool is a great idea, as the legs on my Chinese Amazon one bent from all the torque, making it near-useless, as I didn't have a welder. I had to use vice grips with a cloth to secure the cam, which is risky as the cam itself is hollow so it can break. Also make sure to weld in such a way that the cam locking tool still fit, that your welds aren't in the way.
Otherwise you're good to go :happy2:
--- End quote ---
Haha, thanks. Just stumped up £20 for a genuine one. Seems expensive but I think I'd rather pay £20 than be holding on to a drill for two days crying.
Fingers crossed.
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