Underseal recommendations

[Andy]

Any recommendations on a underseal..Been looking at the lanogaurd products but heard the bilt hamber dynax is good also

[mjmallia]

I used Silverhook Heavy Duty Under Seal Spray

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0080YDAFA?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

[Chris92]

Bilt hamber gets my vote, great stuff

[pudding]

I would probably go with U-Pol Raptor personally.

[mk1_dave]

I have used Upol Raptor, Upol Gravitex and 3M rubberised underseal in the past. Upol Raptor is very good and incredibly tough, can also be over coated with a rubberised underseal if you want extra protection.

I used Bilt Hamber Dynax S50 as a cavity wax, very impressed.

[lazy]

I have used Upol Raptor, Upol Gravitex and 3M rubberised underseal in the past. Upol Raptor is very good and incredibly tough, can also be over coated with a rubberised underseal if you want extra protection.

I used Bilt Hamber Dynax S50 as a cavity wax, very impressed.

I'm trying to type this without smirking but I am actually being serious. What cavities where you putting it in. At some point I'm going to be taking the wing liners out and removing the sound deadening if it's still there and was going to check underneath and see if it needs undersealing, apparently it's been done when it was imported, but probably could use some more. I've a few adverts lately for lanoguard and it looks good, but they're not going to make it look bad on their own advert I don't suppose.

[mk1_dave]

I have used Upol Raptor, Upol Gravitex and 3M rubberised underseal in the past. Upol Raptor is very good and incredibly tough, can also be over coated with a rubberised underseal if you want extra protection.

I used Bilt Hamber Dynax S50 as a cavity wax, very impressed.

I'm trying to type this without smirking but I am actually being serious. What cavities where you putting it in. At some point I'm going to be taking the wing liners out and removing the sound deadening if it's still there and was going to check underneath and see if it needs undersealing, apparently it's been done when it was imported, but probably could use some more. I've a few adverts lately for lanoguard and it looks good, but they're not going to make it look bad on their own advert I don't suppose.

All the cavities

You can access the full length of the inner/outer sills by removing each of the bungs from the underside.

If you remove rear arch liners you will see a rectangle shaped bung and a large circular bung if you remove those two you can insert the cavity wax using one of the long nozzles and this will coat a large area of the quarter panels. The front of the sills has a little circle bung that you can remove to cover the front end of the sills.

As far as cavity waxes go I have used a few different types of the dinitrol ones and all worked really well. Recently I used Bilt Hamber Dynax S50 on my GTI and I would say it will more than likely perform better than the dinitrol products I have used previously. When I was cutting out the rust I found some of the previous dinitrol wax but was only applied the year before. The coverage was OK and was still sticky/moist. Whereas the Dynax S50 tried to a harder wax (similar to a candle) and took more effort to remove. I would definitely recommend the Dynax as it was easy to use and covered must more area than others I have used. Checkout their youtube video on it and it will most likely convince you to buy it 

[pudding]

Haha good old Phil McCavity 

Any of that stuff is great.  For the erm, 'cavities' I filled mine with Wurth wax, which as mentioned, comes with a nice long shaft for filling cavities 

All the chassis leg box sections, all the factory mounting jig bungs etc etc, get fill all those dark holes with your long shaft 

The main issue with old MK5s is the rot hiding behind the plastic sill covers, and the factory e-coat breaks down over the years which looks OK visually, especially behind the perma-damp arch liners, but you may find heap big rust spots when it's sanded back.  My 2007 ED30 was pretty much a restoration project when I saw all that, which I couldn't be bothered with, so moved it on 

[lazy]

I need to get this done before the winter properly starts. I've decided to go with Bilt Hamber S50. What I wanted to ask was did you use the aerosol cans and how many or did you get the 5ltr container and spray it on yourself, if so what spray equipment did you use.
Thanks.

[pudding]

Funnily enough, I just bought some Bilt Hamber stuff    UB for the impact areas (wheel arches etc) and UC to cake everything else under there, plus some  hydrate 80 to eat the rust from bolts etc and any other areas that need it.  I went with spray cans as it's easier.  I still have some old Wurth cavity wax left over for the doors and what not.

[lazy]

I've just ordered 4 cans of S50, I'm not sure how far I'll get but hopefully it will go a long way.

[pudding]

Blimey, 1 or 2 cans is more than enough to do all the doors and main cavities 

Just blast the rest on all the control arms, rear subframe, exposed floor panels etc etc.

[lazy]

Oh that's good haha. I was planning on doing the wheel arches and as much of the floor as possible. Are the doors a problem area for rust?