H&R Rear anti roll bar fitting

[JPC]

Hello guys, im going to be fitting my Rear Arb soon.

Before, i wanted to make sure i had everything in check.

First thing that popped up was lubricant for the Bushes.

Ive had a look at the H&R website and it says their bushes dont need lube. that true?

I know typically you should make sure there is plenty of the correct non abbrasive lube on the bushes, but i wondered what most others on here would do?

cheers

[Teutonic_Tamer]

What kind of bushes are they?  If they are hard poly bushes, then you really need some molybenum disulfide grease - aka 'CV joint grease'.  This isn't absolutely vital, but is highly recommended.

Also, make sure you have a bottle of thread-locking adhesive for the bush bolts (but not the drop links).

HTH

[JPC]

Got the thread lock sorted! ;)

And the bushes turned out to be Teflon lined.

Cheers for the reply

[RobH]

Are you fitting just the rear ARB jay?

[Teutonic_Tamer]

Got the thread lock sorted! ;)

Just make sure it isn't too strong.  A 'mild strength' brew is best.

And the bushes turned out to be Teflon lined.

Teflon - aka PTFE, aka 'snake oil'.  I'd still be inclined to use a smear of MDS grease.

Oh, don't forget to make sure the wheels are on the ground before tightening the bolts.

Cheers for the reply

Yr welcome. 

[JPC]

Are you fitting just the rear ARB jay?

yeh myself. I'm getting the front done soon at psi I think along with the coileys.

I didn't know about thebolt tightening thing. I assumed that the bearings in the aftermarket droplinks would compensate for the bolts being tightened Whilst wheels are off the ground. Surely the position of the bar is all to do with the bearings? Not the bolts?

[Janner_Sy]

if you are planning on a WALKit then it would pay to get that fitted at the same time as th font ARB to save on the labour costs.  you only have to get wheel geometry done once then as well

[JPC]

Yep. I'll be doing that too

[Teutonic_Tamer]

I didn't know about thebolt tightening thing. I assumed that the bearings in the aftermarket droplinks would compensate for the bolts being tightened Whilst wheels are off the ground. Surely the position of the bar is all to do with the bearings? Not the bolts?

Some, but not all Mk5 drop links have a rubber bush rather than a swivel joint, so this needs tightening in a 'neutral' wheels-on-ground position.

Also, if you still have the standard front ARB, then set your rear bar to the softest until you get the front swaped.

[JPC]

Fair does. I've got bsh droplinks on there which seem to swivel whichever way they wanna go.

And with regs to the front arb, with the rear set to hard would you be saying that due to oversteer?

[Teutonic_Tamer]

Fair does. I've got bsh droplinks on there which seem to swivel whichever way they wanna go.

Linky please?

And with regs to the front arb, with the rear set to hard would you be saying that due to oversteer?

With the H&R, even on its softest setting, it will no doubt be an 'upgrade' over the OEM arb.  If you whack the rear arb up to full hard - you'll induce some quite dramatic differences between front and rear - the rear will feel like its on rails, whilst the front will like drving a blancmange!

[Janner_Sy]

And with regs to the front arb, with the rear set to hard would you be saying that due to oversteer?

With the H&R, even on its softest setting, it will no doubt be an 'upgrade' over the OEM arb.  If you whack the rear arb up to full hard - you'll induce some quite dramatic differences between front and rear - the rear will feel like its on rails, whilst the front will like drving a blancmange!

i set front to soft and rear to hard on my eibachs, after trying all different setups at the nurburgring, and that turned out to be the best setting for the ARBs.  Id get a stiffer rear bar next time though.  if you go to stiff on the rear you'll end up cocking a rear wheel though