And theres more....
Check under the boot matt, if there's lots of white stickers (papery looking things) with red writing on them, leave them, these are build stickers. Nice an authentic...
Large spot lights will be either Carello or Lucas (i think)
Body
Type: pressed steel monocoque Escort three-door hatchback shell with Ford RS
bodykit including front spoiler and tailgate spoiler.
Colours
Diamond White.
Engine
Type: CVH
Capacity: 1596cc
Bore/stroke: 79.96 mm x 79.52 mm
Compression ratio: 8.3:1
Max power: 132 bhp @ 6000 rpm
Max torque: 133 lbf.ft @ 3000 rpm
Cylinders: four, in-line
Cylinder head: alloy
Block: cast iron
Installation: front-mounted, transverse
Valve gear: two cylinders per head, operated by belt driven overhead camshaft
Induction: Garrett T3 turbo, intercooler, Bosch KE-jetronic fuel injection
Transmission
Type: front-wheel-drive
Gearbox: five-speed Ford manual with 218mm clutch, viscous limited slip differential
Internal ratios: 1st, 3.15:1; 2nd, 1.91:1; 3rd, 1.27:1; 4th, 0.95:1; 5th, 0.76:1
Final drive: 4.27:1
Suspension
Front: MacPherson struts, tie bar arrangement with separate 16mm anti-roll bar
Rear: independent with transverse trailing arms, coil springs, telescopic dampers and
12mm anti-roll bar
Steering
Type: variable-ratio rack-and-pinion
Brakes
System: vacuum servo-assisted dual circuit hydraulic
Front: 240mm ventilated discs
Rear: 203mm drums
Wheels & Tyres
Wheels: seven-spoke RS alloys, 6x15
Tyres: 195/50 VR15
Performance
Max speed: 132 mph
0-60 mph: 7.8 sec
Identity
You’ll find the chassis numbers on the front slam panel and stamped directly on the
driver’s side floorplan. On the floorplan it’s hidden under the cut-away carpet and if
there’s any fresh paint or welding in this area then walk away.
Bodywork
Bottom line is you need to check for rust. Check the battery tray, chassis runners
(especially the rear section), front and rear wings (the kit can hide some bad rust),
bulkhead, plus give the scuttle panel a good prod. Another problem is crash damage.
Look for mismatched panel colours, overspray, large panel gaps and wonky filled
patches. Check the car under artificial light for signs of bad re-painting. This is where
street lights are gold mine.
Engine
Even though the CVH is about as tough as they come, turbocharging is still going to
take its toll. Blue smoke from the oil in the chambers is a sure sign of wear and could
mean either piston rings, valve stems, pistons or cylinder bores are up the duff. Blown
head gaskets area risk with modified boost pressures and cam belts will have needed
to be changed fairly often, so ask for some history. Even if its receipts for changed
parts. All goes to verify things..no matter how little.
Transmission
The Series One gearbox was basically a beefed-up version of the XR3i’s. Some
people fit a cheaper XR box when the RST’s original gives up. The only problem with
this is that the car will then be missing the vital LSD that the S1 came with. Other
points of concern are sloppy changes which could be the result of a slack linkage, plus
the synchro mesh isn’t adverse to a bit of stripping.
Suspension
The competition-derived set-up is more than adequate for fast road use, and
aftermarket stuff will detract from the car’s originality and value – unless that’s what
you want. Be cautious of cars that have been lowered too heavily, as their suspension
geometry will be out so much that the ride will be ruined and you’ll go through tyres
like you’re driving on broken glass.
Brakes
The Escort RS Turbo is prone to warping its discs. A lack of feel through the pedal is
not unusual, but watch for shuddering through the steering wheel.
Interior
Shabby Recaros are a big turn off. Getting replacement trim is expensive and timeconsuming
(If you can find any !!!). But if you’re angling for a full leather retrim it’s
not going to bother you that much – of course, you don’t want to tell the person
selling the car this. Also check the carpets...a sure tell-tale sign if the mileage matches
the condition etc. This part is quite often missed by people when “tidying” the car for
sale.
Below £2000
Look carefully at cars in this price range. They will need a lot of tidying and quite a
bit of money spent on them. You could end up with a bargain or a complete rust
bucket. Also look out for fakes…if in doubt, double check the chassis numbers and
contact the RS Owners Club. They can verify if its real or not.
£2000 – 3000
Spend this kind of money and you’ll have a good example on the drive. It’ll be
straight and honest, but don’t expect it to win any awards. There’s likely to be a fair
few miles and owners on the logbook too. Basically, it’ll be a good used buy that
looks respectable and drives well.
£4500+
Pay this money and you’ve every right to expect an excellent example in return. Cars
will be very clean with FSH, few owners and low mileage. Watch out for messed
around cars where the vendor’s trying hopelessly to get his money back. Concours
class winners are expected when you reach these prices upwards.
REMEMBER: THESE PRICES ARE JUST A GUIDLINE.
Biggest Rims
It is possible to fit quite large rims to the S1. 18’s have been done. However, this will
require some severe arch mods (inc, trimming of the kit). Your better off sticking to
the 15’s or going up one to 16’s. Just get the org. wheels refurbished or
polished…they look the biz.
Engine Tech
Ford took the 1600 CVH and bolted on its own KE-Jetronic fuel injection (unlike the
K-Jetronic found on the XR3i, on which it was based). A T3 blower and intercooler
were added and the internals of the engine beefed up to cope with the pressure of the
forced induction.
Price When New
Back in 1985 you were expected to part with £9,250 + £470 for the Custom Pack.
HPI
A phone call that could save you a lot of grief by confirming the identity of the Escort
RS Turbo and whether it’s stolen, a write-off or has outstanding finance. Costs £39.99
from HPI on 01722 422422, £36.99 from the AA on 0800 234999. Don’t just take a
dealers word as well (unless he has a signed, recent doc from one of the above..then
you can call them to confirm).
Clubs
RS-Ford
www.rs-ford.co.ukRS Owners’ Club,
PO Box 4044,
Pangbourne,
Reading,
Berks RG8 7XL
Tel: 01189 841583
www.rsownersclub.co.ukIs it really an RS?
Because of the age of the Series One, it’s best to check the chassis numbers to make sure you’re buying an RS. The chassis number is stamped on the front slam panel and under a cut-away piece of carpet on the driver’s side floorplan.
All Series Ones start with WFOBXXGCAB then either E (1984) or F (1985) then another letter as stated below
JAN FEB MAR APR MAY JUN JUL AUG SEP OCT NOV DEC
1984 B R A G C K D E L Y S T
1985 J U M P B R A G C K D E
The last 5 numbers after this are just sequence numbers.
Instead of wasting your time going to see the car, only to find out it’s a fake, you could always ask the current owner the phone/email to tell you what the chassis number is. Of course you’ll want to double check the numbers when you eventually view the car.
