Without trawling through my War & Peace sized stack of paperwork, I remember the rear being in the -1.30 region for camber, and tiny amounts of +toe.
The front is more tricky. Stock camber is -0.50 to -0.60 and zero toe, but because of the subframe shonkiness (small bolt, big hole) you will often see MK5s showing -0.55 on one side, and -1.25 on the other. Not a major issue as you can't really feel that discrepancy on the road, but for OCD folk, it's nice to see a perfect match on each axle.
I recommend a 'start from scratch' and 'do it once' approach to get it all perfectly even. To do this, you will need:
TyrolSport Deadset or equivalent (not the VAG 'spacer washer' temporary fix).
SuperPro adjustable ball joints.
Someone who knows what they are doing on a Hunter or VAG Biessbarth alignment rig.
Step 1:
Hook up VCDS and log into the Steering controller module, and go to the angle block. Confirm 0 degrees reflects a perfectly straight steering wheel visually. If not, someone has moved the wheel around a notch or more, which is very WRONG with angle sensing PAS modules as it can bugger up the ESP/TC behaviour.
Step 2:
Fit the Deadset kit. An utter, utter ball ache that no balls have ever suffered before, but well worth it as it physically aligns and locks the subframe dead straight. It also relieves your ears of the annoying clicking/clacking/crunching noises during slow, heavy steering angle manoeuvres.
Step 3:
Fit the SuperPro BJs.
Step 4:
Take the car do a Hunter or Biessbarth equipped alignment shop. Dealers use the latter.
Step 5:
Have them set the steering wheel alignment to 0 on the diagnostics screen, hold the wheel still with a clamp and THEN adjust the ball joints and toe until it's all equal. I suggest setting the camber to -1.3
So many cheaper places adjust the hardware and then tweak the wheel round a few splines. This is not what you want.
After doing that, you will be stunned at the difference, and also how consistent it feels corner after corner, month after month, year after year
