Wheel recommendation for track

[tony_danza]

Your car gains more camber the lower it goes, so you're just adding to that variable.

I've got to say I wouldn't go more than 235 on a MKV, strange as it sounds, you don't want too much grip. The more grip you have, the more force you put on components not designed to take it causing failures, wheel bearings, bushes etc etc.

Also, the more grip you have, the faster you are - the faster you are, the quicker a barrier comes at you when you run out of talent! An example of this is pretty much every UK TDO (track day organiser) won't let you run full slicks without a MSA reg'd cage, 1 piece seats and harnesses.

[fuscobal]

My camber was about -0.55 with OEM arms for the same lowering so the increse was much motre than 0.5deg (more like 1.2deg). Here's some movies :

[RedRobin]

Here's some movies :

....Am I right in spotting that you weren't wearing a helmet? 

[fuscobal]

Nope, wasn't wearing a helmet although I had it with me. Most drivers didn't use it. This track is not as dangerous as Nurburgring. I've seen no serious accident since I'm going there !

[the bruce]

I looked again at R888 recommendations > http://www.toyomotorsport.eu/tiredetail.php?tireconcept_id=20&id=3 and I've seen now that a 7.5x17" (OEM rim) would take 235/45/17 at the limit. They say :

- permitted rims : 7.5" - 9"
- measuring rim : 8"

I don't know exactly what they mean by "measuring rim". Is this the recommended rim width ? Is there any risk in running a 235 on my 7.5" wide rim if the car is so heavy ? (1700kg)

If there's no problem, it would be the cheapest option as I only need the tires and don't have to buy rims as well !

''Measuring'' is the rim they did the measurings on shown in thar table. Some specs may differ on another width rim.

Stick with the 225's on a 7.5 x 17 rim

My Team dynamics Pro race 1.2's were 8" wide and on 225's and still looked very chunky on the alloy rim (see pic below). No danger of scrubbing and you can get on with the job at hand on track.

Regard the team dynamis is ET35, isn't it?

My camber was about -0.55 with OEM arms for the same lowering so the increse was much motre than 0.5deg (more like 1.2deg). Here's some movies :

Dont't get confused:

- 0.55° is NOT 0°55' !! 60' = 1° in europe. 100' = 1° in US.

You should have 0°55' (55 minutes), so almost - 1° with oem arms an Bilstein B16.

Your car gains more camber the lower it goes, so you're just adding to that variable.

I've got to say I wouldn't go more than 235 on a MKV, strange as it sounds, you don't want too much grip. The more grip you have, the more force you put on components not designed to take it causing failures, wheel bearings, bushes etc etc.

Also, the more grip you have, the faster you are - the faster you are, the quicker a barrier comes at you when you run out of talent! An example of this is pretty much every UK TDO (track day organiser) won't let you run full slicks without a MSA reg'd cage, 1 piece seats and harnesses.

 

@ all: Remember that all track tyres are wider than road types.
With 235/40 track tyres you'll get problems with the wheel arch fenders cos they in real these tyres are more than 240 mm wide.

[fuscobal]

My camber was about -0.55 with OEM arms for the same lowering so the increse was much motre than 0.5deg (more like 1.2deg). Here's some movies :

Dont't get confused:

- 0.55° is NOT 0°55' !! 60' = 1° in europe. 100' = 1° in US.

You should have 0°55' (55 minutes), so almost - 1° with oem arms an Bilstein B16.

Yes, I know, it's a hexagesimal system. By -0.55 I meant 55' out of 60' wich would equal 1deg so I should have written :

- 0deg55' with OEM arms + B16

- 2deg30' with TT arms + B16