How NOT to change the cam follower!

[bodger00]

Ok so I am reasonably proficient when it comes to vehicle mechanics but today was a nightmare  

I followed the guide here and got the cover off really easily (think I have got the knack of this now). I started with the pump making sure I de-pressurised and then removed the first connection. I promptly then dropped the washer into the engine bay

After 30mins of jacking up the car and taking the splash guard off I resumed the job  

The "how to" that was recently posted only shows one metal and one rubber hose.

If you have two metal hoses its a bit more tricky

Access to the pipes is VERY limited!



The metal hose is a banjo joint which needs a 17mm spanner thin enough to get in (or thats what I thought). My spanner would not fit so I set about bodging a tool to fit.  20 mins on the bench grinder and it fits.  

So I begin to remove the nut (getting dark now can't see as well) and the pipe appears to be bending  

I have now hooked up a light and can see I need a star shaped tool for the bottom of the banjo bolt.

Anyone know what this is and what size I need? Looks like a T50????


What you are looking at here is a mirror reflection under the bolt.

Help!

[Hedge]

Its a spline fitting not Torx. I can't remember the size of it though. 

Yours must be an early car.

[bodger00]

It's an my06 car

Come to think of it it does look more like a spline. Any ideas of the size anyone?

[Top Cat]

Sounds like a nightmare, this is what normally happens to me  so i now insist on having only one  tool in my box. A adjustable spanner. 

[vRS Carl]

From memory it's a M10 Spline but don't quote me as i have only seen it once before about 2 years ago.

Edit - ETKA lists the part as an M10X1 Banto Bolt.

[bodger00]

Finally got there To be honest once I had the right tool the job took about 20 mins to change and put it back together.

So for those that are interested here are my tips

Firstly the tool I used to undo the splined bolt

This is an M8 Spline used to undo this


You can't get a ratchet in due to space restrictions so I taped it to a spanner (to stop me dropping it for the second time)

And then you can get the pump off and continue. Here's what I found

There doesn't seem to be much wear on the lob of the cam (thank god). But the same cannot be said of the follower.

This is the comparison of old and new. Notice the coating is worn away and the bare metal is showing. The Technical Service Bulletin states that "rapid wear will occur" at this stage.

And a side view.


The close up shows that the wear has been enough to start to give concern. It has never been changed on my car and that wear is on a MY06 with 40K. I am so glad I changed it despite the problems I had fitting it. It's like any job, the next time I come to do it it should take me half the time. One thing that did surprise me is the effort I had to give to put the pump back on and overcome the spring. I was really careful not to cross thread or overtighten any of the bolts and I have checked the pipes three times since driving to make sure there are no leaks. You can do this without taking the engine cover off by peering behind the cover.

Interestingly I havent noticed any degredation in fuel consumption or any other signs (hoping the fuel consumption will be better now though).

[rotty80]

How much did the cam follower cost if you dont mind me asking. 

[vRS Carl]

They are about £25 from a stealer.

[bodger00]

24.61 approximately 

[dajonic]

What problems and signs will a worn cam follower give?

[vRS Carl]

You wont necessarily get any signs. however if it is not checked and changed if needs be then you could require a new cam. which will cost quite a bit of money 

[muckipup]

One thing that did surprise me is the effort I had to give to put the pump back on and overcome the spring.

If you rock the car while in gear, it will rotate the cam lobe round a little bit until you get to a 'non-peaky' bit on the lobe i.e. a flat bit if you can imagine the lobe being this kinda shape  /_\  and the spring has less to push against when fitting the pump back on.

Some folks (inc. Carl , I think)recommend pulling back the timing cover and finding TDC on the engine as this is at a natural low-pint in the cam lobe cycle. No issue with that an no disrespect to those who use this method but it may be a bit of overkill imho when it is really only important when fitting the pump and compressing the spring and when a low-point can be quite easily seen (or felt with a pinky finger) when the pump is off.

Perhaps you did that but despite needing a bit of a push, I never felt that it require much pressure to push the pump back on.

I promptly then dropped the washer into the engine bay

Hey, that's one of my favourite party tricks too...then I swear that I hear the faint but distinct sound of clown music and bicycle hooters 

[Gene Hunt]

I think i should get mine changed.

[vRS Carl]

Some folks (inc. Carl , I think)recommend pulling back the timing cover and finding TDC on the engine as this is at a natural low-pint in the cam lobe cycle.

The only reason i recommend that Dave is because it relives the pressure on the pump. Last thing you want to do is bend the piston They are manufactured to very strict tolerances.

I will admit though that it does seem a bit of overkill. But i like to err on the side of caution.

[bodger00]

I got tdc by lining up the two marks they were quite easy to see on mine.
The pump still had some spring to overcome.
 
Dropping a washer or tool in an engine bay is a sign of good job
Its like drawing blood.