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Author Topic: Swapped speedometer out... Now got Traction control & Tyre pressure light on :(  (Read 5428 times)

Offline SeanyK

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Hey folks,

A friend from our brothers at SeatCupra Net came over tonight to help me try and fit a highline dash.

Unfortunately, it seems the speedometer I got hold of, was not the correct one as we could not read the immobiliser code from it... Shame but sods law all the same!

Anyway, when we put the original speedometer back, it decided to throw up about 100 fault codes, this is normal im sure, so we cleared them but some came back.


The 'Steering wheel' icon came on, but to stop that, all we did was turn the wheel all the way to the left, then all the way to the right, then back in the center, and it cleared - Is this OK?


The other ones are not so easy;

Address 03: ABS Brakes        Labels: 1K0-907-379-MK60-F.lbl
   Part No: 1K0 907 379 K
   Component: ESP FRONT MK60      0104 
   Coding: 0004738
   Shop #: WSC 01279 785 00200

3 Faults Found:
00810 - Sensor 1/2 for Brake Pressure
            005 - No or Incorrect Basic Setting / Adaptation
00778 - Steering Angle Sensor (G85)
            005 - No or Incorrect Basic Setting / Adaptation
01423 - Lateral Acceleration Sensor (G200)
            005 - No or Incorrect Basic Setting / Adaptation

We tried clearing, they just came straight back.

Stupidly, we went into '03 ABS - Brakes' and then clicked 'Basic Settings'

Selected 001 and pressed 'GO' and put my foot down on the brake pedal, it then whizzed and whirred so I let go...I hope I didn't do any damage as I think thats the ABS sensor recalibrating or something similar...


Anyway, the lights we can't get out, and he's gone home now so I can't go out to try anything with VCDS.

I did try a test drive and the car seems OK, I just want to sort this out though - though that said might be getting another speedometer (highline) this week, which is the correct part number so I guess it will only bring up these codes again after doing that?

Help! :o)

Sean


Offline Teutonic_Tamer

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Righty - you've initiated the calibration settings for the brakes - but not followed it through.  You need to look at the Ross-Tech wiki page and complete the process.  Is the ABS light permanently on?

Linky: http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/VW_Golf_(1K)_Brake_Electronics_(MK60)#Basic_Setting
Sean - Independant Automotive Engineering Technician (ret'd)
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Offline SeanyK

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Hi mate - thank you for the link thats exactly it! I will do that tommorow night.

Did I miss up the steering calibration as I did full turns to the left, and then full to the right? It did make the light go out though...

The ABS light is not on, just the icon of the car skidding and the tyre pressure sensor light. And the ESP is OFF.

I'll tell you what im most worried about, is that when I went into the basic settings and did group '001' which is ''bleeding the ABS pump' and because I pressed the pedal in, but didnt go through the whole procedure im worried I damaged something. It's probably OK and im being paranoid...

I take it it's ok for me to drive the car tommorow to work and back with regards to the other lights?

Offline Teutonic_Tamer

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Hi mate - thank you for the link thats exactly it! I will do that tommorow night.

Did I miss up the steering calibration as I did full turns to the left, and then full to the right? It did make the light go out though...
If the steering light has gone out, and stayed out, then the ECU has accepted the calibration.  However, you need to make sure you actually did the steering calibration correctly.


The ABS light is not on, just the icon of the car skidding and the tyre pressure sensor light. And the ESP is OFF.
Hmmmmm . . . the ABS and ESP lights should stay illuminated if it wasn't correctly carried out . . . lemme think more on that . . .

Soooo, are you saying that the ESP light is still on (skiddy car light)?  What colour is it?  It will be either amber or red.  If its red, you really shouldn't be driving it.

The flat tyre warning light - you need to do an 'initial calibration'.  Ideally you need to make sure tyre pressures are physically correct with an old skool tyre pressure guage - but this isn't critical for the initial cali.  Righty, ignition on, but don't start engine (and radio OFF), sit in drivers seat and attach seat belt - wait for all warning lights to go out that will do under their own steam.  Now, press and HOLD - both at the same time - the tyre pressure button AND the ESP button infront of the gear stick - you need to hold them for about 5 seconds (it may be as little as 2 secs) - you should hear a 'bong' from the dash, and the tyre warning light should now go out.  Then, when you next set or adjust the tyre pressures, you only need to press and hold just the tyre pressure button.


I'll tell you what im most worried about, is that when I went into the basic settings and did group '001' which is ''bleeding the ABS pump' and because I pressed the pedal in, but didnt go through the whole procedure im worried I damaged something. It's probably OK and im being paranoid...
Don't worry - I did the same thing once - and I sh@t myself, thinking I'd toasted my ABS/ESP.

You just need to print out (or store it on a browser tab) the wiki page, and possibly the one it links to on the steering calibration - and follow them to the letter, and you'll be fine.

Re the 'bleeding ABS pump' - and not actually opening any taps - again, not a prob.  Indeed, this is quite a useful thing to do on a regular basis, as when you activate all four 'wheels' in the VCDS, it actually flushes through any stale fluid which can accumulate through lack of use.  These Teves ABS systems on our Golfs / A3s / Cupras / Octavias are known to be unreliable if they don't get a regular flush, and a regular workout.


I take it it's ok for me to drive the car tommorow to work and back with regards to the other lights?
Yeah - just take it easy with the brakes though - especially when braking into a corner.  The ABS/ESP system controls the bias to the rear brakes, and modern cars with ABS now have much more powerful rear brakes compared to old skool pre-ABS set ups - you just might get the rear end stepping out under hard-ish braking in anything other than a straight line.

HTH
Sean - Independant Automotive Engineering Technician (ret'd)
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Offline SeanyK

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You've been a massive help mate, I really appreciate it.

The car skidding light is yellow/amber definately not red.

I took the car out for a drive and slammed on the brakes emergency stop style to be sure everything was working as it should.

I'll do the button press tommorow before I set off for work.

Ironically, in a few days i'll have another dash in there... So presume i'll need to do this all again (lol) but at least it means I don't need to worry *too* much for the time being.

According to the calibration its one turn to the left and one turn to the right, but I did the whole lot left, then whole lot right, then back to center and it went out - if the light comes on when I turn a corner i'll know it's wrong  :driver: :laugh:

Thanks again though mate - very much appreciated!!


Offline Teutonic_Tamer

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Your most welcome.  Keep us all updated.  :happy2:
Sean - Independant Automotive Engineering Technician (ret'd)
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Offline mortygttdi

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the fault code for brake pressure, calibrating it is easy just press down on the brake pedal hard as poss, it has to exceed a certain brake force...the steering you have done with the side to side,  there is a log in code for basic settings 40168 then just go through the drop down box for the basic settings,  what ever you do dont activate the abs test procedure?  its a pain to go through it.

Darren

Offline Teutonic_Tamer

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  what ever you do dont activate the abs test procedure?  its a pain to go through it.
It may be a pain - but it is very useful, because it recalibrates all the hardware - so is handy for whenever you do any work on the brakes, such as upgrades.
Sean - Independant Automotive Engineering Technician (ret'd)
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Offline mortygttdi

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  what ever you do dont activate the abs test procedure?  its a pain to go through it.
It may be a pain - but it is very useful, because it recalibrates all the hardware - so is handy for whenever you do any work on the brakes, such as upgrades.

Cheers TT the last time i did it the brakes did and still do feel a lot better.

Darren

Offline Teutonic_Tamer

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  • GreasedMonkey - HoofHearted - GTI now mod'ed!
Mods/Admins - can this thread be moved to the Modifications & Technical section - http://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/index.php/board,16.0.html ???

Ta
Sean - Independant Automotive Engineering Technician (ret'd)
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Offline SteveP

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Don't think this really needs to be moved. The indexes for searching will have already captured it, so people will be able to find it just fine where it is  :happy2: